Club Triumph

It was them that supplied the spring clips, iv sent them the pic of your brakes and mine to see what they reckon, took the spring clips off as a precaution, To be honest they sent them out early this year due to me complaining that the pads were knocking on the pins and at the time i thought no way, Ill see what they come back with, the pics might explain the prob better;-)

OK, the new brakes are under the car now for a couple off months and they really work well. Also the new front springs and AVO shock dampers (all round) are working now as they should. The car feels much more comfortable now without having lost any of it's roadholding. So everything's OK you would say .... NO 

Under heavy braking (esp. from high speeds) the nose now dives almost into the road. The backend lifts so much that the propshaft scrapes the exhaust. 
So what can be done to tackle this one? I have already fitted the anti-roll-bar spacers.
Anyone experience with compression struts 

Oops ... that was post 1000 ... I think I'll drink on that one 

Quoted from Beans

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Depends what the councilling is about ...

Well I wouldn't want to start a list...

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Quoted from davesideways

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Quoted from Beans

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Quoted from grndsm

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Quoted from Beans

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At the moment I think there are three options left;

1. Try to live with it ... 
2. Fit stiffer springs and suffer on the not so smooth tarmac (in the surrounding countries) on which the car is regularly used (trembling)
3. Do some reading on the subject. First idea is compression struts 

Something to work on this winter ...

Quoted Text

First idea is compression struts

Compression struts are really nothing more than tie rods that run from the TCA backwards (as opposed to tie rods going from the TCA to the front).
Problem is where do I leave the ARB, interresting challange 

Adding these 'compression struts' would in my opinion, not make any significant change in the amount of brake dive in itself. It would give the freedom to possibly choose a geometry with more 'anti dive' since you're no longer restricted to using the orignal roll bar moutning position.  Read my post on the thead about how anti-dive spacers work from a month ago to see how front suspension geometry can create an anti-dive affect. One other thing to consider is how much the rear of the car lifts during braking since it adds to the dive angle.

Shouldn't that be the other way round ... Due to the nose diving down the upward movement of the rear is more pronounced 
You'll always have weight transfer under braking offcourse

If installed properly, so with the compression strut pointing down to the wheel, there should be no dive. During braking the wheel wants to move back and up into  the chassis as the body comes down. If the angle of the arm is pointing down, the rearward force on the wheel will try to push the arm back, thus making it follow the downward arc. The weight of the body will resist this and you should have hardly any dive under braking.
Only the ARB 

Sometimes I do get things rather backwards but I'm unsure of the relationship between the nose dive and rear lift you're thinking about. My thinking is along this line.  The amount of weight transfer is primarily determined by the center of gravity height and the wheel base. The pitch angle of the car under braking adds very little to the total weight transfer. So the total weight transfer for a given deceleration force (which on your car far exceeds the pathetic orignal braking ability) is essentially a constant. If the rear of the car has no anti-lift geometry (very likely) then the amount of weight being removed (transfered forward) will create an increase in rear ride height. Softer springs would create a greater change in height than stiffer ones for the same weight reduction. Adding some anti-lift geometry to the rear would be very interesting but I'm not sure if the changes would be practical. That's a rather long answer which may explain my idea on the rear contributing to dive angle.

Your explaination of how the compression struts would be installed is very significant. The downword angle from body to balljoint will definately create an anti-dive geometry. The percentage of anti-dive is determined by how much of an inclination angle is installed. Although 100% anti dive can create some strange problems and is fairly undesirable. It's a pretty interesting project.

The ARB could connect to drop links off of the strut tube if the bar end could be modified. I'm assuming the compression struts would replace the ARB location duties completely.

Quoted from FastWedge

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Theo

Neil Revington and I have been discussing decoupling the ARB, fitting front radius arms (like a Stag) and re-attaching the ARB to different connecting points so that it functions only as an ARB not and part of the sprining.  This is a standard mod he applys to racing TR7s.  The trick for my (road) car would be to build in some resiliance.

Have a word with him about it.

Chris

Quoted from Beans

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A compression strut isn't better than an ordinary tie rod. It's only better suited for certain conditions. At least that is my first opnion after some reading on the subject 

Also it isn't an extra support. It replaces the tie rod function of the ARB. So the ARB has to be mounted to the suspension in such a way that it doesn't influence the tie rod(function) in any way. Otherwise the handling will become very unpredictable.

In my case I am looking for a car that's good on the (relatively) bad tarmac here in the region. So I need relative soft springs and long suspension travel. Very bad for anti dive under braking.
Another advantage of the compression strut is when you hit a pothole at speed the wheel won't move as much into the body/backwards as an ordinary tie rod because the weight of the body counters this (for the same reason as the anti brake dive, if the strut is properly mounted that is. Got the idea in the first place from some mk1 (rallye) escorts.

For an "ordinary" roadcar or a trackcar (with much stiffer springs) tie rods are probably a better option