Club Triumph

I`m retired with nothing better to do! the previous owner had the crank reground and new bearings ect fitted not to long ago he also fitted a new clutch which i can see he has pity he didn`t do all this while he was in there!, the engine runs really smooth, yes i did leave the gearbox in but the housing looks dry so i left it, one other thing, the rear crank seal housing has two tiny holes which i presume where there to knock the old seal out which i did and cracked the housing through to the inner edge should i replace or will it be ok as the new seal sits on top of it?

I dont think that crack will be a problem. It might open up a little when you put the new seal in place but shouldnt propogate any further as the small hole will limit it.

Did you positively identify the source of the oil leaks then as I wouldnt have expected any from the belhousing to come from the crank seal?

Its nice that the other work has been done but when picking up after someone else your always wondering what has n hasnt been included...... 

Well going on the bell housing being dry i`m assuming that it`s ok  i`m thinking with the car being on ramps for some time the oil leak from the crank seal has run back that way if you see what i mean! there was certainly a lot of oil around the crank seal!

ok is there anything else youre going to tackle while its out: core plugs (on the sixes theres one at the back with very poor access), crank thrusts (correct end float?), oil pressure good is it?

Sorry dont want to find you more work but you dont want to have to do all this again....

The core plugs look quite new, there`s no oil pressure gauge fitted but the oil light goes out pretty quick if that tells you anything! You have me thinking about the gearbox seals now probably prudent to take the box out while i`m at this stage and do it right!!

If the bell housing is dry inside (rather unusual) maybe the seals have been done recently....

Still its an easy job and something I did when I had my engine and box out but then I knew the seals had never been changed. While your there its worth checking the tightness of all the gearbox joint bolts as they seem to loosen over time and I wonder if new spring washers would help to reduce general oil seepage for which Triumphs seem to be famous

On the top of the real oil seal housing, the top bolt should have a copper washer fitted as it is an open hole into the internal part of the engine, that is if your 13/60 is the same as my GT6

Ah, i did notice a copper washer but as all the rest were spring washers i didn`t give it any relevance! not sure if i put it back in the same hole or not! is it critical?

Morning Steven it could be seeping oil 

All sorted i had put it back in the hole, also there were no washers on the fly wheel bolts, is this normal there are markings on the fly wheel where some washers had been previously fitted?

No those are particular bolts for that application so shouldnt be used with washers. Have you had a look at the bush that fits inside the flywheel end of the crank? Bit fiddly to get out but good to replace if worn as it supports the end of the gearbox input shaft...... 

No i didn`t see that! the engines still on the bench so no probs to whip it off and check it out,

            cheers

Evening all,

           I have finally finished the engine and it will now be leak free, do i hear laughter!!

i am now on to the gearbox, do i need a puller on the prop shaft coupling at the back of the box? i got the nut off and gave it a few wacks with a mallet but seems pretty tight.

No its just on a spline so should come off without a puller. I reckon stand the box upright and a bit of WD40 where the nut was and leave it overnight..... 

Morning all,

               Is there an oil seal at the front of the gear box on the 13/60? it`s just that while looking for a rear seal on line it sometimes comes op as a set ( front & rear) got the housing off but can`t see one! 

No seal on the front, just a scroll. The 2L box and the later single-rail had a front seal but not the Herald.

cheers thanks for that

Good Afternoon,

                      Got the engine back in  and am waiting for new coolant hoses to arrive, i noticed that the heater hoses were really badly silted up! i back flushed the radiator while it was off it and seemed ok so what`s the best way to flush the rest of the system?

Flushing the engine well isnt so easy as the inlet and outlet waterways connect directly to the waterpump body and other than taking this off completely theres no way to get a good flow through.

There should be a little tap or plug low down on the block which in theory should let all the accumulated dirt drain out while you pour water in from the top but quite often the tap is seized (and snaps) or is blocked with sludge or wont close again afterwards......

the problem here is the use of too long bolts , they bottom out and tightening just strips the threads, m10 or 3/8 unc  will work on sump or timing cover  into the alloy block but do check the bolt lengths or you will just repeat the stripping 

invest in a steel one if needs must , they are belt and braces

Pete