Club Triumph

Quoted from byakk0

Instead, someone fabricated a clamp-style mount.

Quoted from rotoflex

They've all become definite individuals over the years, haven't they?

Got the driveline and the swaybar mounted today. I wanted to start it too but ran into troubles. Before I dropped the engine on the chassis I had a control board set up with the voltage regulator , starter solenoid, ignition switch, and tachometer so I could run the engine off the car. Unfortunately I did not make a diagram of how I had it set up and when my son helped me take it off of the cart he disconnected a few wires. I need to research where they go now as the wiring was not coded like a wiring diagram and I can't find my notes. I didn't tag the individual wires either.
Needless to say, I didn't get it started today. I did discover, with the help of my son, that water pump was leaking badly, so I swapped the impeller with one of my good spares. At least I got that changed before it was critical.

Sorry,. no pics today.

good news and bad...Ain't it always that way?

Rigged up my calipers to my master cylinders (yes plural) and popped the pistons out today. Unfortunately the handy little removal tool I made didn't work out after all. As you can see, the brake hose fits nicely into the master cylinder, perfect for bench testing calipers, as well as piston removal. Couldn't get the brake pedal to work with this setup though, as the board it is mounted on is too thick and changes the angle of the piston plunger. I had to use a wrench instead, and manually operate it.



As for using both master cylinders, you are wondering? Well, its going on 17 years since they had any fluid in them, but they still moved-barely. Took a few minutes for the piston to return to full out position. Thus, for one caliper I used the clutch master and the other I used the brake. Got the both freed up and operating nicely. But...more bad news. The brake master is leaking out the seals, so just one more thing to rebuild. Guess I will buy a set for both masters.

And, the other bad news. 3 of the 4 pistons are pitted. One only lightly, and perhaps I could get away with reusing it, but I better not. I'll pick up some new ones. I've got 2 other calipers, but have no idea on the state of those. Perhaps I will try popping the pistons and see what they look like. Not holding my breath though.

You can see just how bad the dust boots were. One was brittle and cracked, and the other nearly gone.






This is the removal tool I made for the pistons. The idea is to insert it into the piston cavity and grip the handles together tightly, then rotate the piston free. It didn't work. It was fun building it though. Cost nothing but about 20 minutes as I had the metal on hand. I modified it from custom pliers I made for fixing my washing machine.

Can't tell from the pictures if the chrome is through.
Recoverable if not but not if it is.

You're making great progress, congrats.

Washing machine to GT6, love it!

I'm a big fan of compressed air to remove brake cylinders.  

Cheers, James

Quoted from Phwoar

Washing machine to GT6, love it!

I'm a big fan of compressed air to remove brake cylinders.  

Cheers, James

Got a list made up of brake parts I will need. Now to determine just who to buy from, James Paddock or someone here in the US. Barring shipping, Paddock has the best prices of anyone.
That said, does anyone have any experience with their brake pistons? http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parts.aspx?categoryID=22&vehicleId=4
(P type caliper, part 510792)
Some available from other vendors are steel, stainless, and nitride coated steel. The stainless look to be the most expensive.

Anyway, I started building a rotisserie this week. So far I only have the one end built.


Ignore the mess. My restoration is hampered by my overly-small garage. Storage happens in unique places.

Got a little bit more work done on the rotisserie this week.

I am running 2x4s under both sides just inside the rockers for strength long ways. I would use the extra chassis I have, but I need to get at locations the chassis would cover. I want to prevent unneeded twisting, so I am going the 2x4 route, bolting them to the metal ends and the body mounting points.

I did not take into account the depth of the floor pan, so my initial design had the 2x4 running right to the front mounting point. I discovered today the depth of the floor pan added an unaccounted for extra 1.5 inches. Adding an extra lengths of steel tube and a small spacer is the method I used to over come it. Additionally, the 2x4 runs right to the back, where I intend to mount it to the bumper attachment points in the trunk(boot). Still working out how to connect the 2x4 to the block bolted to the underside. Probably will go with a construction nail plate.

Also, I will connect it to the radius arm points, if I can figure it out.

Modified the front piece. Compare it to the previous photo. (Ignore the board in the middle. It is not part of the design)


Adding more tube to the old was easier than cutting the welds and replacing with a longer one. It will add strength anyway, and added some space between the 2x4 and the tube. I just needed a 1/2" spacer to add to it.


I drilled a piece of 2.5x3" L steel to bolt to the floor of the boot at the bumper mounting points, and drilled the other side of the steel to mount a 2x4 block. I still need to connect the block to the board it is resting on. This is the one I may use the construction nail plate on, or, I may eliminate it all together and weld another piece of the 2.5x3 steel to the one I already have there, in the shape of a Z so the board rests on top of it. I'll play with it and see if I like it.


From the underside. I still need to fit the off-side wing. (LHD car, so that would be nearside on a RHD.   )


Doesn't look like much, but I did get a lot done this week, though, naturally not as much as I would have liked.

More progress on the mounts...not as much as I would like, but I am moving forward.

see my journal for more info. http://www.triumphexp.com/journal/byakk0/11719

Here is the final bracket for the backend, 2.5"x3" 3/16" L-metal, cut to 5" in length.


Anyway, I dumped the idea of the wooden block and just used another piece of L-metal. I got the 2 peices fit together just right, and then clamped them tightly so I could weld them together.
Drilled it, and ran the bolts through the board and the bracket. Works great, and I feel it will be much stronger than couple of grabber screws connecting the block to the main 2x4 rail would ever be.

This is viewed from from underneath, behind the tub.


And the view from the wheel-well. You can clearly see the 2 bolts connecting the bracket to the trunk floor
I am wondering if I should fit a spacer in there so I don't cave in the floor-I probably will, if nothing else just for the peace-of-mind.

Okay, I think I have the final design for the rotisserie. I've already got most of the tub support completed. I still need to build the lower cradle (or whatever it may be called). It may end up with a few more modifications, plus I did not include casters in the drawings. The pivot point will probably be 1/2" bolts of some sort, with an 8 (or more) point stop system, so I can rotate it full 360 degrees and stop pretty much where I need. I took measurements from a friend's already researched data, and the pivot point will be at 10" from the bottom of the tub support, with the bottom of the tub support being about 36" from the ground, needed clearance for me to roll my chassis underneath, hence the inverted Y shape on the one end. Design is based on items I have on hand. I'll get some measurements up later. This is just a basic idea and nowhere drawn to scale, so it may look a little tall. The wire-frame pics show the rough design and individual components better than the completed assembly. You can see from my previous photos where each of the brackets in the drawing mount to the tub.

Here's another pic of Abby for you.

growing like a weed and keeping me busy

A few more pics. I'm taking notes of my measurements, and will post them as I go on my journal here --> http://www.triumphexp.com/journal/byakk0/11734

Its been a few minutes since I last posted, but don't worry, I haven't forgotten about updating this thread. Been working on other non-car projects, but mostly just have not had much time spend on it, unfortunately. Abby keeps me busy in my time off, giving my wife a break and all.
Anyway, I managed to steal a few minutes today and built more on the rotisserie.

Modified the rear brackets by welding washers for spacers to the tops.


The are needed so as to not crush the bracket for mounting the rear bumpers.


Here it is ready to weld. Ran out of good weather, as my driveway serves as workspace. The pivot point is the black dot right near the level. I don't have it drilled in this photo.


Abby decided to lend me a hand.

Trimmed the boards and have them laid out. Made some mis-cuts so I need to fix that.
As my dad likes to say 'I cut it twice and it is still too short'

A great piece of work Hazen. I'm looking forward to seeing it in action.

I'm slowly getting getting there John. Took cues from your setup attaching to the radius arm mounts. Wanted to work on it today before work (night job) but my dad borrowed back his own drill I have been borrowing. I need a new cordless as mine will only last about 15 minutes, if I'm lucky.

Life gets seriously in the way right now. Over the past month or so I've been lucky to get even 10 minutes a week to work on it. (no joke). It's mainly school and giving my wife a break with the baby. She getting big, but only thinks she's big enough to help. Not complaining, mind you. It's just the way it is right now.


Last year December


This December

Sweet , the growing hand pictures are a nice way to record change .

Mostly assembled. Still need the casters.
     
     
     Rear rotation point. I had to add a 3" tube/extender because of the stabilization feet that connect the metal to the 2x4's.
     Center pivot is 1/2" threaded rod, the tube is a 1/2" steel pipe.
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     front rotation point. The plate has 8 points. I could have made more, but drilling all those holes was tedious so I stopped. Originally was going to have about 16.
     
     
     Closeup. Again, 1/2 threaded rod.
     
     
     At first I was going to just leave the hole and put a nut on the bolt once I had the position selected, but as you can see in the first photo the upright gets in the way of two positions, so I welded captive nuts to the backside. I just need to add a spacer then I can weld the plate to the upright.
     The angle iron gets bolted to the double 2x4 upright of the main wooden frame, and the threaded rod goes through that.