Club Triumph

Hello Esxefi,

I have seen other people saying they drill an extra hole and use a nut and bolt. However it can never be as good as a properly fitted taper bolt. If you ream a hole in the shaft and the fork and use an accurate machined bolt it is not as rigid. There will always be a slight movement which you should not have with the original taper bolt.
I acknowedge that your modification worked but it is not sound engineering.

Alec

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchShaft/ClutchShaft.htm

The buckeye triumphs site gives a whole plethera of trials and tribulations into this tapered dowel failures
the shaft hole is definitley tapered, I will get  a new hd dowel from RB and check its fit before I jump to a new shaft but its not overly £££s

So replace to be sure is not the end of the world, I dont want to take the box off again
peter

Definitely a taper, If the pin is under size it can bottom out in the fork without gripping correctly.

I heard (somewhere about putting a parallel pin on the other side of the fork (horizontally not vertically like the taper) The two pins prevent the fork for twisting on the shaft and help stop the taper from snapping.

Hello pete,

to get a good fit requires the taper in the shaft and the fork to be reamed together. Somewhere in the past I seemed to remember Chris Witor selling the right tool?  It's also essential to ensure the taper bolt's thread does not bottom on the fork, which could happen if the reaming is too enthusiastic.

Alec

If it needs to be  lap in , Im down to micrometer blue and some grinding paste

still to strip the box so parts order will be nearer the new year,   well santa has got in the way of normal speed
But its looking simple needs of decent baulk rings and a few  hub  ball springs
pete

Hello Pete.

to lap it in needs a dummy pin withoout the threads as other wise you just can't rotate it properly.

Alec

Hello Pete,

just having second thoughts. it's along time since i have done this job and my memory may be playing tricks? Does the taper part of the pin contact the base of the fork, or does it not actually pass through the cross shaft? If the latter then forget what I said as it's wrong?

Alec

Hi, the crosshaft  hole goes right through the shaft there is a relief counter drilling in the back of the fork to accept any protrusion
so yes   .no
All good stuff thanks
might have a play today Im not going out in the snow
its just drop the cluster , pop the stem wheel out and get the main bearing off the shaft
the silliest Is the  circlip on 3rd  guess that will be chopped its a bit well hidden for any normal
removal but easier than some of the 18spd stuff ive been involved with developement
pete

Examined the shaft the hole under magnification is past is best so new shaft is ordered
box is stripped just needs ball springs to improve the detent and new baulk rings
And i dont need to remove the 3rd gear circlip   wait the postman  and slot it back in
new clutch as fingers well worn,  
and I got a transmision adaptor for the trolley jack  it will be a good test to try that out
getting a bit old for lift with the knees.
pete

just been checking the pull loads on the sleeves and selector shafts
the sleeves are withing spec the selectors are well low at 14lbs  spec is 27 for1st /2nd ,
so doing things the hard way fight the core plug out of the remote , spring is ok , so it needs a shim or what,
the core plugs are 3/8" and ddo not appear sold by any triumph outlet so ebay to the rescuse , ordered 3 for pennies but the simpler idea is just press the plug in futher till you achive the loading on the pull test, easy to block the plug to stop it returning ,  
this was a cost reduction the earlier boxes have a screwed plug to make adjustment easy
but its all going back together , with no wear tear nasties apart from new baulk rings and 3 hub springs
Pete

With new spring and   plug the load is still only 15lbs to pull 1/2nd selector
its the same spring and reading on 3rd4th I am begining to think the 27lbs in the manual
Are for the early boxes which had a ramped detent plunger not just the simple ball

the only way to raise the load is to redesign the selector detent groove to be  sharper  deeper

not going to get carried away with that idea
but with 1st jumping out and a supposedly low detent load   I wont solve the problem
without some definite improvement
its not worn sleeve or dog tooth wear or any endfloat on the gears or sleeve, they are perfect.
ive fitted the german baulk rings which  only work on synchronising they have no effect on jump outs  

well the box is back in, surprised there are no dowel locations for the clutch hsg, there are 3x 3/8" bolts (over and above the normal 5/16"ones )
and these 3 are not exactly a 'fit' size   not my idea of keeping it all concentric

just new prop and exhaust to button up and shes done
pete

There should be three dowels.

Thats what i woud have expected  my  Mk2   back plate has 2 dowels  there is no dowel provision in the backplate for any clutch hsg dowels, there are dowel holes in the hsg but absolutely diddy squat in the back plate to fit anything ,, only bolt holes

even took the back plate off thinking  i can see two dowels, has some muppet had pressed them right through , but had i been a bit more observant they  are just back plate /block location dowels , and dont align anywhere near the drilling in the c hsg.  which are just blind against the plate  

struck me as odd , the 3  -  3/8"bolts  seem some sort of compromised  design  

the back plate looks aged original , its not a repro part .
Pete


Pete

well lets try a reply on this new version forum 

after a good dose of the winter bug the box is in with the supposed high  german made quality baulk rings 

the selector pull load would never climb above the 15 lb and is never going to achive the wsm figures so I will live with that result, new sleeve springs and detent springs , but the welch/core plugs you need to dig out are available on ebay but not from any triumph suppliers, 10mm  and a light spread witha ball bearing to geta good tight fit ( only needd till the top cover goes on )

the result is shes very quiet, no fork /gear lever sizzle and synchro is as snappy as you like ,

but  with correct end floats and new springs no bent forks  etc  she will still jump out of 1st on deceleration in 1st at 15 mph

I am going to live with that ...enough enough

i did buy a transmission plate to fit on the trolley jack but did not have the height to get the box on 

anyne wants it for some beers +  made with a tilt adjustment and very solid bit of kit 

like this

cant load the link or picture  sorry  

Pete