Club Triumph

Well....

I ordered a carb set from Chris and new upgraded valves.

Carbs stripped and cleaned and new parts and gaskets fitted.

I set the carbs at 3 full turns down from the top.

What a nightmare  for love nor money would she start.

One flat battery and one spray can of easy start I got her to start.

I adjusted to tick over to run a little faster and checked the air balance using the correct tool. Then set up my colortune to make sure mixture was correct.

The right carb was not to far of but the left was way of ( According to the colortune colour).

Still didnt run well and seemed very under powered.

With the revs set higher than normal and with a clonk as the auto box was selected and then she died.

So again revs set even higher this time and with a more violent clonk than before she was put into drive. This time drove.

I took her for s short run but seemed under powered.

When I stopped and put the car in Park she was very flat and revs were low. Then after 30 seconds or so she picked up again back to the high revs that I had set.

For sure if the revs were set correctly she would stall if put into gear.

Sooooo this morning I went out ( No petrol leaks ) but she would not start! She doesnt even try to start!

Could it be a weak coil? I checked for vaccum leak but nothing?

I feel lost with this car??

I also put new points and condenser in and new plugs and new leads.

That made no difference??

Again if I use some easy start she will fire for half a second or so on the easy start but then nothing until I sprayed some more easy start.

I have checked the float levels by blowing in each carb then turning them upside down. ( Float level seems fine ).

Im really at a lose over this car.

Oh yes she runs on for half a second or so when the ignition is turned off.

I 

Hi!

Don't give up!!!

Have you checked the ignition timing?

Have you checked for a spark ( points and plugs)?

After trying to start etc have you looked at condition of plugs i.e are they wet with fuel instead of dry?

Are they a well known brand of plug?

Maybe a compression check would be worth a try?

Is there any oil in the coolant?

Hope this might help you!

Cheers!

Im sure that its fuel related.

As when Easy Start is used it fires and tries to start.

Without Easy Start im just cranking away with nothing.

Could it be fuel vaporisation?

When I undo the fuel lines im find fuel under pressure.

I have noticed that after leaving the car over night I can prime the pump with one prime.

So if fuel is drawn in and there is fuel in the carbs why does it not seem to be reaching the plugs? Yet Easy Start is????

Can you feel the suck on the carbs when the car is trying to start? (hands over the inlet of the carbs, should be be a strong suck)

Can you see any fuel at all around the needle/jets? 

Are the valves all correctly adjusted?

Hello Clive 

Well there is a good vacuum on the carbs when running but not been able to test on my own when cranking.

I just got her running and when she first runs ( on Easy Start ) the choke doesnt seem to make any difference. As she warms up if I pull the choke she then responds with an increase in revs.

I let her warm up then took her for a short nerve racking drive.

When I put her into drive she hesitates and as I press on the peddle there is a rush of acceleration as it seems to smooth out.

How ever on the first hill she tries to cut out so I have to put her in neutral and rev her to clear the lumpiness.

Sometimes it clears... But then back in drive with me over revving her she will go.

On the flat she seems ok but as soon as I stop in gear she plays up.  

Im not sure if its fuel electric air or all 

No I didnt do the valve clearances as I dont want to make things only worse 

Meaning if I get that wrong that it will make more problems.

The car seemed ok when it was leaking petrol lol.

I noticed that the gas from the exhaust seemed very hot. 

Ah. Are these SU carbs? If so you should see the jets move down when the choke is pulled out. 

If strombergs I really have no idea!

They are Zenith Strombergs CD150 that adjust from the bottom.

I think like me most members are going to be stomped as I have done everything I can.

Have I set the timing correct?

Points open on number 1 at 8 degrees before T,D,C? (Static timing).

Would you have a vacuum leak at the inlet manifold ? loose manifold, blown gasket.  Before you had these problems what did you do to make them happen ? there's got to be a reason. 

Tony.

Hello Tony thank you for your reply.

As said I had a leak in the front carb but was having running problems when hot.

So the carbs were stripped and rebuilt.

No one has mentioned the  dreaded rubber sliver syndrome

When you refit a rubber fuel hose the metal tubes cut a small sliver of rubber off the inside of the hose these float about in the fuel line to the carb and hide in the back of the float valve

Nasty little sods   worth a careful revisit.

Are these  early  CD with a thames barrier type choke or a CDS witha starting valve on the front carb ???

If you  remove the carb top are the two holes in the base of the air piston facing the engine side ???

Make sure none of the holes in the front face are not obstructed by air box/ filters or anything else

Pete

Well I did find bits of rubber in the old valves but I have fitted new fuel lines as the others had seen there best.

They are CD with the little holes that you are speaking about.

So these holes must be clear?

What job do they serve?

Are you sure it is not the ignition electrics? 

Have you tried a spare coil?

Are the points earthing erroneously? (ie is the wire properly insulated?)

I have wondered a the coil.

But from my understanding coils when at fault play up when hot or stop all together.

New points fitted.

I went out in the dark last night to see if there was any arcing but all was fine.

I have wondered at the coil.

But from my understanding coils when at fault play up when hot or stop all together.

New points fitted.

I went out in the dark last night to see if there was any arcing but all was fine.

I have wondered at the coil.

But from my understanding coils when at fault play up when hot or stop all together.

New points fitted.

I went out in the dark last night to see if there was any arcing but all was fine.

Quoted from karl1-

Im sure that its fuel related.

As when Easy Start is used it fires and tries to start.

Without Easy Start im just cranking away with nothing.

Don't be too quick to rule out ignition on that basis. It's perfectly possible for a weak spark to cause that. The whole point of easy-start is that it's very easy to ignite - easier than the petrol mix - so a very weak spark can start the engine on it even when it would seem to do nothing at all without.

That said, your symptoms once you get it running can be caused by lots of different air-related issues. Manifold leaks where one of the gaskets you disturbed hasn't seated right. The carb pistons being the wrong way round so the little holes are in the wrong place. Air filter gaskets fitted upside-down so they block the small holes that let air pressure in below the diaphragm. On the later engines (2500S) even leaving the air box off can make it run like a dog, but I don't think yours will suffer that.

Hello and good morning Rob

Thanks for your advice.

Well im going to get some more Lucas points and condenser and fit them.

I must say that I am trying to sort out the running issue with the air filters off.

And it may well be a vacuum leak. ( Time for carb cleaner again ) 

I did her the odd pop from the carb nearest.

Ifffffff the rain stops I may have another look at her again today.

I do appreciate all your advice and help. 

You say that the carbs have been rebuilt. Have you made sure that the pistons can still move up and down freely? 

With Strombergs a lot of people just tighten the four screws that house the dampers and without realising it, stop the pistons from moving up and down as they should. 

Take the air filter box off and lift the pistons with your finger. Once you've lifted them they should fall straight back down to the bottom with a dull thud. If they stay in the up position, or you cant lift them easily, then you need to undo the four screws at the top of the carb and re-tighten them in an order that allows the pistons to move up and down with ease.