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Triumph Torque    Cars    Herald/Vitesse  ›  LHD conversion
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LHD conversion Print
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Antonnick
October 27, 2017, 10:33am Report to Moderator


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During the winter months and as part of my 13/60 convertible rust bucket Restauration, I want to convert it to LHD.

I have come across a Problem with the steering column clamp attachment. Referring to theexploded view, part 34 Bracket  ( page 4-208 in the Workshop Manual and fig 11.10 on page 179 in the Haynes Manual) is bolted to a steel Piece just under the demister. This steel Piece is fixed to the main Body but seems to either be an invisible welded bit or perhaps rivetted in some way. I Need this bit on the LHS.

Before I try to cut it or drill it out  I wanted to ask if anyone is in the know about how it is fixed?


Gott hüte mich vorm Sturm und Wind, und Autos ,die aus England sind
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Mark Hammond
October 27, 2017, 4:31pm Report to Moderator

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Hi I have (a very long time ago) converted a LHD 13/60 to RHD.  I was lucky enough to obtain a NOS bulkhead (virtually given to me by my local Triumph Dealer), and I bought a second hand dash and steering rack from a breakers.  IIRC this is all you need (apart from a locking button for the door on the new driver's side)!  This is the easiest way forward as the pedals and the battery need swapping sides and all the metal-work is wrong and difficult to alter.  Some of the wiring will need to be extended but the job isn't hard.  The only giveaways on mine were the heel mat was on the wrong side and the RH sun visor still had a mirror in it!  Incidentally, that car (ONK339P) is still around and owned by a CT member.  I think that 2 of us did the conversion over a weekend.

Mark


Herald 1200 Saloon, owned (in the family) from new, Royal Blue/Black trim
[color=purple]MX-5 Z-Sport (Tweaked to 200bhp)2007,
Suzuki Vitara S Auto, Cosmic Black, 2017.
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Antonnick
October 27, 2017, 8:36pm Report to Moderator


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Do you still have the old bulkhead ?????  

Perhaps I should do an online build thread? - it certainly will take me, even with help, more than a Weekend to do. It is more than likely help will be needed from the Forum.

I did some work  this afternoon cutting out the battery cradle and temporary removing the coil. The battery cradle where it was, presumably, welded to the Body was completley rusted. So I have cut out two rectangulat holes ready for welding. Fortunately where the battery used to sit and where the clutch and brake pedals will go, is nice and solid and after cleaning up will look OK.

Pictures are better than words - I will see if I am able to upload Pictures - here as a test  if it works,  is one of the interior



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Dion
October 27, 2017, 8:43pm Report to Moderator

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Early nineties, my brother, a friend and myself were on a mission to London to pick up a mint Hillman Imp for 1100 pounds. On the way back to the ferry we saw a fairly rusty 13/60 convertible for sale. The owner accepted 300 pounds and off we went. Had a hard time getting in time for the ferry as the engine was making lots of noises and broke down two times. Not sure how we made it home but one of the first thing done to that poor Herald was to exchange the engine for a better one. A month or so later my brother changed it to LHD using an old scrap dash. Did that in my garage and I am sure no welding was needed.
He sold the Herald some time later, I am not sure if it has survived as it was quite bad (rotten lower chassis near the diff mounting if I remember correctly).
The Imp - I also converted that to LHD and used it for a few years, then on a holiday in Wales nearly wrote it off when some idiot ran into the front end. I sold it, it got repaired and it still survives.


Tilburg, Netherlands
63 - TR4, 66 - 2000 od LPG, 73 - Stag  
previous owner of: 69 - Herald 1200 Sal, 71 - 2000 od LPG, 75 - 2500 aut LPG inj
plus a couple of other classics
A car stops being fun when it becomes an investment
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Mark Hammond
October 28, 2017, 4:54am Report to Moderator

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No, I threw the LHD bulkhead out.  It was around 40 years ago!   The car wasn’t that old at the time....

Mark


Herald 1200 Saloon, owned (in the family) from new, Royal Blue/Black trim
[color=purple]MX-5 Z-Sport (Tweaked to 200bhp)2007,
Suzuki Vitara S Auto, Cosmic Black, 2017.
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Antonnick
October 29, 2017, 3:29pm Report to Moderator


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This is the Problem Piece. I have discovered that it is handed and does not readily make itself fit for the LHS. I think i will have to think up a Special solution using steel angle or something. In between times I have removed the brake and clutch cylinders as well as their respective foot pedal inside the car.and cleaned them up. Both platforms left and right Hand side have Surface rust to deal with as well as a previous over zealous coating of underseal. So a lot of scraping and grinding has been needed before coating in Fertan.



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Antonnick
October 29, 2017, 3:36pm Report to Moderator


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....and this was the metal bracket welded on (as arrowed) to which this Piece was bolted to on the RHS. I did think about cutting it out and rewelding on the LHS but due to the handed nature this is pointless - probably it would not be possible to cut it cleanly out anyway.



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Antonnick
November 12, 2017, 3:22pm Report to Moderator


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Some Progress, slow but sure and sometimes unsure.  First the RHS stripped of the clutch and brake mechanisms, accelerater pedal/cable and speedo.

The accelerator + cable has been reattached on the LHS even though there are supposed to be handed parts for These items. The facia has been given to my local Schreiner for making a new mirroe imaged one. The windscreen wiper Motor + rearboxI had taken off, cleaned up, regreased, painted and replaced.

If the battery is going to be positioned with the terminals facing the front then the cabling will have to be longar. Thus I would prefer to place the terminals to the rear i.e adjacent to the bulkhead and take care to insulate the positive terminal which would be at risk with a short circuit contact with the bonnet. I have seen picutes of other LHD models using both methods. I wonder which one was original?

Having treated the rust on the platform and scraped off the underbody seal which was splattered everywhere, it was then painted in White hammerite. The holes left from the clutch/brake mechanisms I intend to cover with GfK from the underneath.



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Antonnick
November 12, 2017, 3:29pm Report to Moderator


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Now the LHS with similar Treatment and the clutch mechanism just installed. Perhaps I should have made a Picture before , just to compare and see the improvement. I had to cut out the original battery cradle which left big holes in the platform. I have brazed 0,75mm steel cut to size to the openings.



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Bitumen Boy
November 12, 2017, 8:29pm Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Antonnick


If the battery is going to be positioned with the terminals facing the front then the cabling will have to be longar. Thus I would prefer to place the terminals to the rear i.e adjacent to the bulkhead and take care to insulate the positive terminal which would be at risk with a short circuit contact with the bonnet. I have seen picutes of other LHD models using both methods. I wonder which one was original?


My 1200 came with the battery terminals facing the front, but I made up some longer cables to have them facing the rear. My main concern was that they looked rather close for comfort to the battery retaining clamp, probably not a problem with the original Lucas type cable ends which were more compact but there can't be many cars around that still have those fitted.

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RobPearce
November 13, 2017, 9:44am Report to Moderator

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I think the original fitment for all small chassis cars was with the terminals to the front, where (as Bitumen Boy says) they're rather close to the clamp. My three now all have 063 type batteries fitted (beefier then the 038 and cheaper too) which puts the terminals at the back. I've not had any trouble with the cable lengths but it helps to tweak the fitting of the clamps for easier orientation. Of course, if you're converting from RHD to LHD then you'll be making up new cables anyway, won't you?


Current fleet
1967 Vitesse 2L conv "Tessa"
1970 Spitfire Mk3 (project) "Toby"
1972 GT6 Mk3
Not enough time or space
Recently sold:
1972 2.5 PI estate "Harry" (gone to russell on here)
1973 Toledo 2-door "Spike" (gone to a club official)
Used to have:
1968 Vitesse 2L saloon
1980 Dolomite 1500
1977 Dolomite 1850
1980 Dolomite Sprint
1982 TR7 DHC Sprint
1975 2500S saloon
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate (with 1500 Spit engine)
1975 Stag
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Martin M
November 13, 2017, 12:34pm Report to Moderator


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Hi,
did the conversion recently.
The y-Piece is handed. LH or RH. You cannot just put the RH one to the LH side. Guess why I know, demisters will not fit. I was lucky to buy a LH one.
You have to "mirror" it or search a LH one.
It is connected with screws to the bracket welded to the windscreen frame.
Thus I drilled out the RH one and put it to the LH side after ´measuring a lot.
There is a LH bulkhead at present for sale in Germany.
BR
Martin
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Antonnick
November 13, 2017, 3:39pm Report to Moderator


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Hallo Martin - I had it in mind to heat up and rebend the Y Piece to make it suitable. Drilling out the welded bracket is an idea but where did you see that a LH bulkhead is for sale here?

Edit - I have found it in the Germany Forum, thanks.


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Martin M
November 14, 2017, 8:38am Report to Moderator


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Hallo zurück,
I would not re- bend but make a new one. If you start bending the one you have, you lose the pattern.
I think it is as well possible to mount the stering column  to the dash (holes for LH are there), and then fabricating a sort of T-Piece that is then screwed to the upper part of the bulkhead. This welded bracket is not very solid, thus srews should do.
Martin
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Antonnick
November 14, 2017, 1:26pm Report to Moderator


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Hallo Martin - this was also my original Intention. First however, I Need to complete the Brakes Fittings and then fit the new steering rack cleaning and rustproofing as I go along........


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