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Spitfire6
October 7, 2017, 10:54am Report to Moderator


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Hi,
From a different post.
Cheers,
Iain.



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Me in Burnley, GB
Spitfire 6 EFI Alpha N (Emerald K3 ECU). Big fat 215/40/16's on the backside. (They fit and minimal camber change). (Custom cooling system); broken and going back to OEM,  with 20% EG for winter with 2% corrosion inhibitor. LED's all round. NT 5W40 Oil. 0W40 Mobil 1 FS, 3.27 diff with a LSD by Quaife. TR6 Transmission + J Type.

PUG 206CC 2L twin-Cam. NT 5W40 Oil
Automation and control systems engineer.
RIP Step-7 Classic. Long live Portal V14
IEEE Member
G6SBH
Yaesu FT 102 with all the extra's.

http://www.SpitFire6.UK               Main site- work in progress

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Dannyb
October 7, 2017, 1:29pm Report to Moderator

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I think you are right because when stuck in traffic for awhile on my way home on the M25 which is normal on a Friday night.
The oil temp started to climb a little and then when I Started to move along 40+mph it went back down.
I'm now thinking , do I need an oil cooler at all.  The hardest drive I do it the RBRR.


Danny Baker
Langdon Hills, Essex.
RBRR Finisher 2012  2014  2016
My first car in 1970 was a 1965 Spitfire4 with 8 port head stage 2 conversion
Now drive 1980 Spitfire 1500
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cliftyhanger
October 7, 2017, 1:45pm Report to Moderator

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Now you have a gauge, try it without a cooler and get some readings.

Service kits for the thermostats are available for about £12 (bottom of page)
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/oil-system/oil-thermostats


Clive Senior

Location-Brighton, East Sussex
Foxy is here, 1500od tax exempt Toledo. Now has the decent engine back in Slant 4 engine bolted in, sprint box and axle.Now has fresh MoT. Needs paint though.
Spitfire Zetec project is started work progressing slooooowly on the road!
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Dannyb
October 7, 2017, 1:58pm Report to Moderator

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Thanks Clive


Danny Baker
Langdon Hills, Essex.
RBRR Finisher 2012  2014  2016
My first car in 1970 was a 1965 Spitfire4 with 8 port head stage 2 conversion
Now drive 1980 Spitfire 1500
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Dannyb
October 28, 2017, 1:05pm Report to Moderator

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Update.
Checked oil cooler thermostat in hot water and it operates OK. closes when the water is cooled.
I have since added a sandwich plate that now take the oil pressure and oil temperature senders. This is fitted on top of the oil cooler sandwich plate.
I'm now getting the correct temperature readings.
I have read a few threads on this and other forums that say the sender should have oil running across it rather than in a blind hole of an adapter on the block.


Danny Baker
Langdon Hills, Essex.
RBRR Finisher 2012  2014  2016
My first car in 1970 was a 1965 Spitfire4 with 8 port head stage 2 conversion
Now drive 1980 Spitfire 1500
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Chasj
November 10, 2017, 5:56pm Report to Moderator

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Hi. Not on a "proper"car but my Skoda has both water temperature gauge and, via the computer, oil temperature.

The water soon gets up to 90 and stays there however driven. I always bring up the oil temperature read out, not pulling too many revs until the oil heats up. Running temperature being 95/98 and can take 10 miles to get there. Always careful not to rev. too much until oil hot for the sake of the turbo.

On a classic I have always driven on the oil pressure gauge when starting off, keeping revs down until oil pressure doesn't go too high, ie,until it reaches running temperature. Not a believer in loosing oil pressure too much above standard.

In the late 60s to 80s use to run and race Morgans with both crossflow and Lotus twin cam engines. Instead of fitting a high pressure oil pump I used a high capacity pump but I swopped to a standard spring, result 45psi at all times, also with some 40% more flow available didn't need an oil cooler. However did run a slightly larger sump and larger spin off oil filter, prior to which, using a paper/felt filter a Wooler aluminium ribbed casing.
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