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scotty71
August 14, 2017, 11:48am Report to Moderator

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can some body tell me what company is best for brakes shoes? the ones I had, have only done 500 miles, and are cooked. due to the steep hills I had to come down. EBC have stop making there shoes, and I would be looking at NOS Lockheed liners. and riveted them on.
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JumpingFrog
August 14, 2017, 12:19pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from scotty71
can some body tell me what company is best for brakes shoes? the ones I had, have only done 500 miles, and are cooked. due to the steep hills I had to come down. EBC have stop making there shoes, and I would be looking at NOS Lockheed liners. and riveted them on.


I've not driven with them yet, but Delphi (Lockheed automotive (AP) was sold to Delphi) were the best that I could readily get. Part number is LS1032. NOS might be better still, but then there's the whole asbestos debate again...



1971 Herald 13/60 Saloon - Just about on the road.
1967 Herald 1200 Estate - Rebuild in progress, just about rolls - http://mongoltriumph.com
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glang
August 14, 2017, 12:41pm Report to Moderator

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Hi Scotty, are you sure your braking is working as it should? Standard system, correctly adjusted hand brake, true round drums etc.... Its just that most braking is done by the front discs (if that is what you have) so I would have expected them to fade long before you cook the back drums. With that much heat in the drums they could distort and need replacement/machining.
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scotty71
August 14, 2017, 5:09pm Report to Moderator

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i have machine the drums, as they are not true. but egg shape. i have EBC green pads with drilled and slotted front discs,
but the rear shoes and drums are cooked.paint has bubbled on the drums.like all these parts made in India or China. poor metal.
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glang
August 14, 2017, 5:26pm Report to Moderator

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So the rear wheels spin freely do they? With the paint it could just be that they werent done in high temperature paint and that is easily corrected (mine arent even painted) however if the shoes are also damaged thats more serious and, as I say, that amount of heat could distort the drums again regardless of which shoes you use. Do you smell them or see smoke from them after a run?
The only other suggestion I have, and I dont know if its even possible, is that you have the wrong diameter slave cylinders on the rear brakes which would then change the front/rear braking balance and put too much force through the drums....
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nang
August 14, 2017, 5:34pm Report to Moderator

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You could try coming down the hills in a lower gear.
Tony.


If all else fails-Read the Instructions! ��Wairoa
New Zealand

1976 2500TC (converted to S spec) owned since 1998.

1999 BMW 2800 cc Z3 Convertible.
 
2003 BMW 525i Touring.
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glang
August 14, 2017, 5:57pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from nang
You could try coming down the hills in a lower gear.
Tony.


ha ha, with a Triumph gearbox!!!
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ferny
August 14, 2017, 8:21pm Report to Moderator

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If you've bubbled the paint without fading the fronts, something isn't right. Mine are painted with standard exterior paint and the only bubbling happened when one was locked on. Even my front calipers are sprayed in normal paint and are fine - that's with a car driven hard enough to fade asbestos pads.


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If in doubt, do up until you hear the crack and then go another 1/4 turn to ensure tightness.
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scotty71
August 15, 2017, 11:38am Report to Moderator

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the rear cylinders are the original units. but they have been rebuilt with new pistons and seals. what size master cylinder should be used? as the one I had with the car is 5/8" and I have added the higher plastic container for the brake fluid. as for the brake shoes, it looks like they are not pulling up squarely on to the inside of the drums, this is causing to fade. I will be buying some new branded shoes.
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Martin M
August 15, 2017, 12:18pm Report to Moderator


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After all the aftermarket stuff currently sold by the well known Traders , now I have NOS Girling / Unipart (Mintex printed on it) and this does the job perfectly, even under abuse  
Martin
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Nick Jones
August 15, 2017, 8:45pm Report to Moderator

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The "aftermarket" stuff seems to be very poor at present.  I have some fitted at the moment that fill the drums with dust to the extent that it causes pulsing within a couple of thousand road miles or about 100 miles around Castle Coombe circuit.  It's enough to get one thinking of disc conversions.......

Must try and find some better ones, preferably before the 10CR.

Nick


Nick Jones
Somerset UK

Vitesse Mk 1.5 Convertible EFI, Survivor of RBRR 2008, HCR & 10CR 2009, HCR 2010, 10CR2011, HCR 2012, 10CR2013, 10CR2015, HCR 2016 & HCR 2017.
GT6 Mk3 Roto - project in progress
Spitfire MKIV son's project now on the road as a daily driver
2.5 PI Saloon now EFI (PIe?), Engine rebuilt and running sweet.  Diff howling...... Survivor of HCR 2013 & 2014 Gone to live in Swansea

http://www.tengaston.plus.com
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scotty71
September 1, 2017, 9:47pm Report to Moderator

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i have removed the old shoes, as from tonight. these have only done about 500 hundred miles, and have glazed over.
the rear drums are full for brake dust and are crap. but what i had done, was to check the different s between the old and new shoes, and found the old shoes are half the thickness, and softer then the lockheed ones.
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