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Moss Car Man
July 12, 2017, 7:43am Report to Moderator

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Hi all,

Any thoughts on the best place to send a 13/60 gearbox for reconditioning?

I did find a place called Klassik Transmissions on the internet & they seemed ok when I rang, but any recommendations welcome.

Cheers,
Andy.



www.thesundogs.uk

Rockin' rollin' rhythm & roots!
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JohnD
July 12, 2017, 8:21am Report to Moderator


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Mike Papworth.
Solo trader, small workshop, expert with enormous knowledge og Triumph boxes, diffs and all gears.
mike.papworth1@btopenworld.com or 07768 775170 (from his small ad in Courier)

John


Serial Vitesse racer.

Old Blue.  1995-2001
Silverback. 2001-2007
SofS. 2007 - to date.

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Jonny-Jimbo
July 13, 2017, 8:38am Report to Moderator

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If you do that sort of thing he's also on Facebook too if you search for Mike Papworth Triumph.


62 Vitesse 1600 - Slammed & modified
67 2000 - Fitted with 2.5 o/d - 2012 RBRR, 2015 Essex Rally, 2016 HCR, 2016 RBRR
67 2000 Estate - Dormant
70 Herald 13/60 - First car, many bits
77 CZ 125 Sport - 70 miles on the clock
77 Kawasaki KM90 - Shop hack
81 Yamaha DT125 - Many bits
88 Ginetta G4/4 - Dead
88 BMW E30 320i - For Sale
89 Citroen AX GT - Rally car!
90 BMW E30 318iS - Building to FIA spec
90 Mazda Eunos 1.6 - 'Popeye'
93 BMW 530i - Donor
95 BMW E34 540i - 4L V8
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Davemate
July 13, 2017, 9:40am Report to Moderator


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Just to add more weight
Mike Papworth,he done mine  


Herald 1500,rallyfied- overdrive,swing spring with 1500 spit diff,440lb front springs, adjustable height spax on front and back, trunionless conversion,thicker arb,rear roll cage,harnesses,bucket seats,extra gauges,Vitesse steering wheel,genuine 5.5j smoothies wheels,4 branch manifold
Still for sale

Mk1 2000 saloon,now a 2.5   

Timing marshal CT autosolo Bovington 2011,2012,half of 2013,2014 and 2016
Marshalled Essex winter rally 2013
RBRR 2012, co driver
24th Nachtrit 2012, navigator
Chinese rally 2013, navigator
Essex winter rally 2014, navigator
HCR 2014, co driver
RBRR 2014, co driver
Essex winter rally 2014,navigator
Warwickshire winter rally 2016,driver
HCR 2016 driver
Essex winter rally 2016 navigator
Mr Radders official calm down buddy
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Moss Car Man
July 13, 2017, 5:43pm Report to Moderator

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Thanks all,
I have emailed Mike Papworth............


www.thesundogs.uk

Rockin' rollin' rhythm & roots!
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Moss Car Man
July 14, 2017, 1:34pm Report to Moderator

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Swift reply from Mike Papworth....unfortunately he is very busy & booked up just now; & can also only offer a dearer, 4-synchro, upgrade currently.
Too much for my budget so i'll give Klassik Transmissions the job & report back on how it goes!


www.thesundogs.uk

Rockin' rollin' rhythm & roots!
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Spitfire6
July 14, 2017, 2:38pm Report to Moderator


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Hi,
Mike Papworth did my TR box thru a third party.
Check what he actually replaces, what he replaces, what he guarantees & for how long.

The other options are expensive and could be from same supplier. I will not be using M.P. in the future.
When the noise in neutral and first increases from the rumble that has been present for the last two years, I will decide what to do. Maybe six speed!  .

Cheers,
Iain.





Me in Burnley, GB
Spitfire 6 EFI Alpha N (Emerald K3 ECU). Big fat 215/40/16's on the backside. (They fit and minimal camber change). Custom cooling system with 20% EG for winter with 2% corrosion inhibitor. LED's all round. NT 5W40 Oil. 3.27 diff with a LSD by Quaife. TR6 Transmission + J Type.

PUG 206CC 2L twin-Cam. NT 5W40 Oil
Automation and control systems engineer.
RIP Step-7 Classic. Long live Portal V14
IEEE Member
G6SBH
Yaesu FT 102 with all the extra's.

http://www.SpitFire6.UK               Main site- work in progress

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GT6 M
July 14, 2017, 6:18pm Report to Moderator

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why not try it yer self
plenty on eer that have done it with v v little knowledge
folk on here will elp oot if stuck

Word of cautionee, ye can get 20 syncros, and maybe lucky t,get a set that actually grip
OE type are best,
BUTT, if yer actual gear cone is worn doon, then its near an impossarble

they are quite east t,wuk on, try it

M


One does not have to know how a thing works, to know that it is not working right

Ye div,nt efta no ooa thing wuks, t,no its nut wuk,n reet.







Scaryport,��Cumbria,.
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DaveKent
July 14, 2017, 7:11pm Report to Moderator

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cts in markyate did a great job on my spitfire box


Club Triumph Member since 1985, and proud of it!!!
RBRR Entrant and Finisher! 1986,1988,1990,1992,1994,1996,1998,2000,2002,2004,2006,2008,2010,2012,2014,2016
HCR Entrant and Finisher! 2005,2006,2007,2008,2009
10CR 2009, 2015
1972 Spitfire MKiv� nice !!
1974 Toledo


http://www.dakstechnicaltransport.co.uk
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Rallyspit
July 15, 2017, 5:37pm Report to Moderator
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I've got a spare 3 syncro box from a Mk3 spit available which came as a job lot with a very rotten car, but all the mechanicals had been overhauled by an engineer. It's still bubble wrapped and available from Rotherham area. No guarantees (as I've never used it) but it looks and feels ok. PM me if you want it.
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Pete Lewis
July 15, 2017, 6:39pm Report to Moderator

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Or get exchange unit from td fitchets  at £385  

I rebuild a good few area cars boxes, in herts and beds
,, whats wrong  with your 13/60  unit
pete


1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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Moss Car Man
July 15, 2017, 7:40pm Report to Moderator

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Rallyspit...PM sent.  

Pete L - that Fitchets price is out of my budget I'm afraid!  

My gearbox seems very rattly...I get a constant rattle whilst driving but very noticeable when I come off the throttle whilst in gear.
Sounds rather as if the handbrake cable is rattling on the propshaft but I've the had car up on a lift & no rattles anywhere!
The gear change is very sloppy & the "gate" seems very loose.

I have a spare untested Spitfire 1300 gearbox which I was thinking to send off for a recon........


www.thesundogs.uk

Rockin' rollin' rhythm & roots!
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Mark Hammond
July 15, 2017, 9:58pm Report to Moderator

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Probably just needs the remote control shifter rebushing.  1 hour and a £15 kit'll see that sorted.

Mark


Herald 1200 Saloon, owned (in the family) from new, Royal Blue/Black trim
[color=purple]MX-5 Z-Sport (Tweaked to 200bhp)2007,
Suzuki Vitara S Auto, Cosmic Black, 2017.
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Casper
July 16, 2017, 8:25am Report to Moderator


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Quoted Text
Probably just needs the remote control shifter rebushing.


Agreed.  Try that first.

C.


Herald Anorak
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Pete Lewis
July 16, 2017, 8:27am Report to Moderator

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where abouts are you

a tootle up to luton and we can soon advise or fix most , easy you work i advise    simpulze

even free tea

Pete


1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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Moss Car Man
July 16, 2017, 8:28am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Mark Hammond
Probably just needs the remote control shifter rebushing.  1 hour and a £15 kit'll see that sorted.

Mark



Really?
Excellent!  I will try that first (although as it's engine out just to get to the remote on a Moss Malvern!   )

Unless......Maybe I can cut an access panel in the tunnel fibreglass.............


www.thesundogs.uk

Rockin' rollin' rhythm & roots!
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Bitumen Boy
July 16, 2017, 8:50am Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Pete Lewis
Or get exchange unit from td fitchets  at £385  


That's gone up a lot since I had one a few years ago - went for the dearer 4 synchro option and think it was under £200. Never had any problems with it (touches wood) though the speedo drive has been a pain in the neck for leaking, the correct size O rings seem hard to come by.
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mazfg
July 16, 2017, 10:57pm Report to Moderator


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Anyone hadoing one from Wins international?  Simular prices. ..


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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mazfg
July 16, 2017, 10:57pm Report to Moderator


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Anyone hadoing one from Wins international?  Simular prices. ..


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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Moss Car Man
July 17, 2017, 9:32am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from mazfg
Anyone hadoing one from Wins international?  Simular prices. ..


Klassik Transmissions quoted around £200 if you send them your 'box.





www.thesundogs.uk

Rockin' rollin' rhythm & roots!
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griffipaul
July 17, 2017, 10:40pm Report to Moderator

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I have rebuilt mini gearboxes in the past so not daunted by doing a vit box , which will soon need doing . However  But the main issue is getting a supply of good quality parts - there is so much crap sold and some bits are made of unobtainium . At least Mike P has best quality bits available . You pays your money and you take you choice.
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Paudman
July 20, 2017, 8:27am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from GT6 M
why not try it yer self
plenty on eer that have done it with v v little knowledge
folk on here will elp oot if stuck

they are quite east t,wuk on, try it

M

Because it scares the s**t out of me.... I've started on a 1200 gearbox and managed to remove the rear extension and replace the bearing and oil seal, plus gasket at the other end. Wee buns so far.
NOW: I need to remove the input shaft to replace the big front bearing which I think(!) is a bit rumbly, although this could just be down to long storage.
First internet forum I looked at mentioned a Churchill tool - okay can fabricate a close copy - but then goes into dropping the lay gears (some guy called Markus!!).... at which point I left in a hurry. The Buckeye Triumph website started on about pressing the bearings off (which disintegrated causing quite a bit of bother) and then setting endfloat and at that point I just decided to leave it alone. I've a garage full of bits that were once units that came apart easily enough, but won't go back together without a degree in rocket science (I have so many diffs with new bearings that I'm scared to use in case I haven't set the preload / end float correctly)
So that's where we're at..... the crossroads of "Do I start it and maybe never finish it, or do I fit it in the car as is and regret it after a few miles when it starts to go wrong?"


If it was made by man, it can be dismantled and rebuilt by man. Usually just not as easily.
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Straight Six
July 20, 2017, 9:51am Report to Moderator


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Experience gained is directly proportional to machinary wrecked.

Get stuck in and view it as a learning experience. Even if you end up with a gearbox which doesn't work you'll have learnt something and can still send it off to a specialist.
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Paudman
July 21, 2017, 4:18pm Report to Moderator

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Ok... so let's start at the beginning. Removing the input shaft.... it doesn't just pull out of the front of the box, as the lower gears (laygears?) are in the way of the larger gear at the end of the input shaft. How are these dropped out of the way and more importantly, refitted? Is it as simple as undoing the allen-key nut at the front of the box?


If it was made by man, it can be dismantled and rebuilt by man. Usually just not as easily.
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glang
July 21, 2017, 5:08pm Report to Moderator

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Paudman
July 21, 2017, 6:02pm Report to Moderator

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Thank you Glang and to my eternal shame I'd forgotten I had that manual for the Herald, plus the Service Notes version as well.
However they show the input shaft being withdrawn by use of what looks like a variation of a slide hammer; in my 1200 the large layshaft gear at the front of the box overlaps the ring on the input shaft, the thin one behind the toothed gear, so it doesn't appear that it can be withdrawn over or through it without moving this first. I have various pullers that will remove it as long as I'm sure no damage will be caused.

(and one point re the other end - the distance washer goes over the end of the rear mainshaft - am I right that it goes on first, THEN the bearing and oil seal? I didn't note the order when removing the assembly....)


If it was made by man, it can be dismantled and rebuilt by man. Usually just not as easily.
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glang
July 21, 2017, 6:20pm Report to Moderator

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its a while since Ive done a box but you have to take out the layshaft axle so that the layshaft drops down out of the way of the input shaft.
The manual shows various special tools but all can be avoided with a bit of ingenuity - for example the input shaft can be taken out by gently tapping its bearing at various points from inside the box with a suitable brass drift.
As for order of components this must be verified from the manual.
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Moss Car Man
July 22, 2017, 6:02am Report to Moderator

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Strike a light! After reading all that - I if my gearbox does need rebuilding I'll definitely send it to an expert!  

Hoping that it is just the remote bushes so have ordered a kit for £14.99.

Just got to find some time to do it......& decide whether to cut an access panel in the fibreglass tunnel or remove the engine & gearbox as it's all a tad inaccessible in the Moss!  


www.thesundogs.uk

Rockin' rollin' rhythm & roots!
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GT6 M
July 22, 2017, 9:42am Report to Moderator

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Need t,drop the layshaft into bottom,  then main shaft,l pull oot
nee need for pulleres,presses, honest, they come of wid a wee bit of tapp,n frae a hide,or other hammer
and other bit, ye need a  drift, to tap the inner race, so it comes oft shaft

Once ye got it all oot, clean it, an set to strip,n it, an re assembling it a few times on a table,or bench, draining board,
so it becomes 2 nd nature, just dont put the split clip on, as it,ll mebe deform wid constant on/off antiks

need a tub of cold Shirt Lifters delight for re assembly, grease is nee good
also need a olde layshaft, cut doon, or a dummmy one med up,  wood or metal,it dont matter, as long as it holds the needles in spot

re thrusts, glue em into spot, this so they no move aboot whenst trying t,put it back t,gither
bit of supa glue onto backs, after cleaning wid thinners

just be carefull aboot the rear bearing whenst tapping back on,  as it can mek the free play ont back thrusts go tight,
put it on, , then tap it back, so as gear is free t, turn



Git stuk, shout HELP

M


One does not have to know how a thing works, to know that it is not working right

Ye div,nt efta no ooa thing wuks, t,no its nut wuk,n reet.







Scaryport,��Cumbria,.
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Paudman
July 23, 2017, 9:28am Report to Moderator

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HELP!
Your first sentence says it all.... "need to drop the layshaft into bottom"....
HOW??????


If it was made by man, it can be dismantled and rebuilt by man. Usually just not as easily.
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RobPearce
July 24, 2017, 9:12am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Paudman
HELP!
Your first sentence says it all.... "need to drop the layshaft into bottom"....
HOW??????


Should be easy. The layshaft runs on an inner shaft that is retained by the bell housing and the rear extension. With those two removed, it should be possible to tap it through and out, leaving the outer layshaft free to drop.

That said, I've never actually done this myself, so hopefully someone who has will come along and confirm/correct/clarify.


Current fleet
1967 Vitesse 2L conv "Tessa"
1970 Spitfire Mk3 (project) "Toby"
1972 GT6 Mk3
Not enough time or space
Recently sold:
1972 2.5 PI estate "Harry" (gone to russell on here)
1973 Toledo 2-door "Spike" (gone to a club official)
Used to have:
1968 Vitesse 2L saloon
1980 Dolomite 1500
1977 Dolomite 1850
1980 Dolomite Sprint
1982 TR7 DHC Sprint
1975 2500S saloon
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate (with 1500 Spit engine)
1975 Stag
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glang
July 24, 2017, 9:15am Report to Moderator

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Exactly right and its easy peasy (although not quite so to put back together) but again I say download the manual and see the pictures.....
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Paudman
July 24, 2017, 6:37pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from glang
I say download the manual and see the pictures.....


And again I say: I have.
However, I'm a great believer in WHY as until I understand why something needs to be done, it won't click with me. I also need to know what the parts are called, so I can understand what the diagram refers to.
SO: if the manual says:
"Withdraw the countershaft and retain the needle roller bearings by inserting a length of tubing 0·655" (16'64 mm.) % x 6·S'· (165 mID.) long..." then this means NOTHING to me. Nor do pictures showing the side of the gearbox.

If it had said: in the front casing you'll see a round tube under the input shaft... this needs to be moved backwards out of the housing but if you do so all the gears will drop off it. Therefore you need to feed a shorter tube back into the hole to hold everything in place, but short enough so it can be lifted up and out of the box housing." Now I'm probably completely wrong, but the manual doesn't say HOW or in which direction to remove the countershaft nor does it give any tips or tricks that practiced members are likely to know to look out for. Hence I feel I'm no further on than before and will hopefully get someone else to do it while I watch and learn. Rob's version was quite informative... more please!


If it was made by man, it can be dismantled and rebuilt by man. Usually just not as easily.
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Nick Jones
July 24, 2017, 7:04pm Report to Moderator

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The layshaft has an anti-rotation pin at the back and therefore can only pushed out front to back.
3 synchro gearboxes have plain bushes in the laygear cluster so the shorter dummy shaft isn't needed.

4 synchro boxes do have needle rollers so, unless you are planning to remove all the rollers anyway you need a dummy shaft which is about the same diameter as the real thing but just a couple of mm shorter than the laygear cluster itself.  Can be a wooden dowel piece of metal tube or a real shaft cut down (will need a grinder for that - it's HARD).  From the belhousing end just push the shaft through with the dummy shaft.

Nick


Nick Jones
Somerset UK

Vitesse Mk 1.5 Convertible EFI, Survivor of RBRR 2008, HCR & 10CR 2009, HCR 2010, 10CR2011, HCR 2012, 10CR2013, 10CR2015, HCR 2016 & HCR 2017.
GT6 Mk3 Roto - project in progress
Spitfire MKIV son's project now on the road as a daily driver
2.5 PI Saloon now EFI (PIe?), Engine rebuilt and running sweet.  Diff howling...... Survivor of HCR 2013 & 2014 Gone to live in Swansea

http://www.tengaston.plus.com
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glang
July 24, 2017, 7:59pm Report to Moderator

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hmmm I must admit a gearbox rebuild is probably not the best job to chose as your first one. Most people start doing routine maintenance and work their way up to something like this so maybe you need to at least find a knowledgeable assistant.....
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thescrapman
July 24, 2017, 8:51pm Report to Moderator

Colin Wake
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2 bits of wire hooked under the cluster allow you to lift it back into place afterwards.


Schadenfreude expert and collector of assorted rusty Triumphs on the Essex/Suffolk Border.

2010, 2011, 2013, 2015 and 2016 CT Navigators Championship winner.

10CR 2005, 2007, 2009, 2011 2013 - RBRR 1990, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016 - Nachtrit 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2012 - Chinese rally 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 - HCR 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013 (3rd place), 2014. 2015, 2017

On the road.
1968 Spitfire Mk3 : 1973 TR6 : 1967 Herald 1200 Estate 1970 : 1968 Mk1 2.5PI 1968
Off the road
1967 Moss Monaco (Mk1 GT6 based) : 1970 Spitfire Mk4 : 1970 Mk2 2000 auto  : 1964 Mk1 2000  : Mk2 2.5PI
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Nick Jones
July 24, 2017, 9:49pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from glang
hmmm I must admit a gearbox rebuild is probably not the best job to chose as your first one. Most people start doing routine maintenance and work their way up to something like this so maybe you need to at least find a knowledgeable assistant.....


This is true.... though as a first gearbox to do it's not a bad starting point as they are fairly straight-forward and don't need any very special tools.  VW 085 series 'boxes on the other hand...  

Nick


Nick Jones
Somerset UK

Vitesse Mk 1.5 Convertible EFI, Survivor of RBRR 2008, HCR & 10CR 2009, HCR 2010, 10CR2011, HCR 2012, 10CR2013, 10CR2015, HCR 2016 & HCR 2017.
GT6 Mk3 Roto - project in progress
Spitfire MKIV son's project now on the road as a daily driver
2.5 PI Saloon now EFI (PIe?), Engine rebuilt and running sweet.  Diff howling...... Survivor of HCR 2013 & 2014 Gone to live in Swansea

http://www.tengaston.plus.com
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sparky_spit
July 25, 2017, 12:34pm Report to Moderator

Mike Banks
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Quoted from thescrapman
2 bits of wire hooked under the cluster allow you to lift it back into place afterwards.


Pardon?  Are you sure you are on the right forum Colin?


Location - North Essex

1968 MkIII Spitfire - 2009, 2013, 2015 10CR. 2009, 2010 Nachtrit. 2011, 2012, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017 HCR (..and 11/14ths of the 2011 10CR)
Yamaha RS200 two stroke smoke machine.
Royal Enfield Bullet 500
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Fordski
July 25, 2017, 6:51pm Report to Moderator
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Sorry bit late to party on this one but if you're still looking for a rebuild I would happily recommend Dave Saunders at Triumph Spares near Worcester.
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Paudman
July 26, 2017, 8:01am Report to Moderator

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It was only meant to be a bearing and gasket replacement to spruce up a perfectly good gearbox... not my first job by any means. I've rebuilt just about everything else on Triumphs. I just thought I'd try it myself as opposed to my last three or four Triumph restorations which were sent to specialists or replaced from a spares pile... just trying to improve my skill set. Thank Gawd engines aren't this complicated...


If it was made by man, it can be dismantled and rebuilt by man. Usually just not as easily.
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roger.england
July 26, 2017, 11:37am Report to Moderator


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You could try :

http://www.firstmotion.co.uk/home

I've used him for an overhaul of a 1200 Herald gearbox, rebuild of a Midget gearbox, and the supply of a Ford type 9. Paul is the owner - in Baldock, Herts.

Roger


1971 Gilbern Invader
1956 Terrot 125 EMS
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Moss Car Man
July 29, 2017, 9:46am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Paudman


And again I say: I have.
However, I'm a great believer in WHY as until I understand why something needs to be done, it won't click with me. I also need to know what the parts are called, so I can understand what the diagram refers to.
SO: if the manual says:
"Withdraw the countershaft and retain the needle roller bearings by inserting a length of tubing 0·655" (16'64 mm.) % x 6·S'· (165 mID.) long..." then this means NOTHING to me. Nor do pictures showing the side of the gearbox.

If it had said: in the front casing you'll see a round tube under the input shaft... this needs to be moved backwards out of the housing but if you do so all the gears will drop off it. Therefore you need to feed a shorter tube back into the hole to hold everything in place, but short enough so it can be lifted up and out of the box housing." Now I'm probably completely wrong, but the manual doesn't say HOW or in which direction to remove the countershaft nor does it give any tips or tricks that practiced members are likely to know to look out for. Hence I feel I'm no further on than before and will hopefully get someone else to do it while I watch and learn. Rob's version was quite informative... more please!


I'm with you Paudman...it usually takes me a lot of staring at the item in question & re-reading the manual to get the "what" & the "why" straight in my head!  


Meanwhile....following the advice earlier in this thread, I have a remote linkage service kit ready to fit, have cut a section out of the fibreglass tunnel allowing me access (my car is a Moss Malvern remember) & have made an aluminium panel to fit afterwards....
I'm hoping to get the linkage done tomorrow & hopefully that will solve my rattling & sloppy gear change issue & i won't need another gearbox!

Fingers crossed!


www.thesundogs.uk

Rockin' rollin' rhythm & roots!
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Pete Lewis
July 29, 2017, 10:41am Report to Moderator

Tssc Herts and Beds A.O.
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its easiest if you can remove the 4 nuts and take the whole remote assy off on the bench

there are two bushes there is the top hat and spacer bush fits the base of the lever , the thro bolt has to be fitted the right way round or it fouls the casting in 3/4th.

halfway down the remote rod is another fork and pivot bush, this takes the rubber bush  and two flat washers
  ( might be red ones)
the bolt wont come out with remote in situ as you wont get a spanner on it.

in the kit are two  0  rings  these fit inside the alloy casting and seal the short front shaft oil leaks  these are best left alone  to fit you have to remove the square head dowel bolt and pull the shaft out the selector lever  these dowel bolts are often more than 'tight'  

on the gear lever spherical cup washers make sure you either use the old one or check there are no sharp cropped edges that mince the new ball very quickly

if the  gear  lever reverse spring and cups and spherical are in good condition leave them alone

all this will make a  good improvement






1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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2Triumphs
July 30, 2017, 12:28am Report to Moderator

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I had a mk4 box built by Mike 2 year ago and done 6k miles on it very pleased , I've heard bad things about a fitchettts rebuild using fibre washers instead of shims etc and I suspect this could be an issue with other suppliers

The main problem is the main shafts are  prone to heavy wear yet that the one bit people don't replace cos I don't think they're available as are a fair few other bits - I think mike has stock he had made or horded

You get what you pay for - if your driving a lot and it's a long term keep I'd avoid trying to do cheapo solution unless your happy to learn the hard way and like taking gearboxes out

The trouble with all these blooming parts suppliers is if you get a problem with an overhauled part they just shrug you off cos they're just middle men and let's face it very few items they sell do many miles......so they just say  " oh we've never had any reports of failures - we'll contact our supplier " and they never do

. - I would only buy overhaul box direct from a reputable gearbox supplier or do it yourself

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Moss Car Man
August 3, 2017, 5:36pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Pete Lewis
its easiest if you can remove the 4 nuts and take the whole remote assy off on the bench

there are two bushes there is the top hat and spacer bush fits the base of the lever , the thro bolt has to be fitted the right way round or it fouls the casting in 3/4th.

halfway down the remote rod is another fork and pivot bush, this takes the rubber bush  and two flat washers
  ( might be red ones)
the bolt wont come out with remote in situ as you wont get a spanner on it.

in the kit are two  0  rings  these fit inside the alloy casting and seal the short front shaft oil leaks  these are best left alone  to fit you have to remove the square head dowel bolt and pull the shaft out the selector lever  these dowel bolts are often more than 'tight'  

on the gear lever spherical cup washers make sure you either use the old one or check there are no sharp cropped edges that mince the new ball very quickly

if the  gear  lever reverse spring and cups and spherical are in good condition leave them alone

all this will make a  good improvement


Thanks to all for the advice...Pete, the above instructions were really helpful...although I had the added hassle of cutting into the tunnel on the Moss to access the remote, & then whip up a cover afterwards...I have now replaced all the remote bushes & washers, etc. & the gear change is much tighter & I seem to have finally got rid of the irritating rattles!   Looks like I did not need a new gearbox after all..


www.thesundogs.uk

Rockin' rollin' rhythm & roots!
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Mark Hammond
August 4, 2017, 4:54am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Mark Hammond
Probably just needs the remote control shifter rebushing.  1 hour and a £15 kit'll see that sorted.

Mark


See, I told you!    

Mark.


Herald 1200 Saloon, owned (in the family) from new, Royal Blue/Black trim
[color=purple]MX-5 Z-Sport (Tweaked to 200bhp)2007,
Suzuki Vitara S Auto, Cosmic Black, 2017.
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Pete Lewis
August 4, 2017, 6:04am Report to Moderator

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Yes  pleased it worked , the simple and basics are always a first before dreaming of deep pockets and pending nighmares,
Many miss the middle pivot and fork as its hidden under the casting
Ive rebuilt many boxes and one thing puzzles me the square headed dowel bolt in the remote shaft is really figging tight, but its loose in the the selector thread, you can move the selector on its shaft but the dowel, is firmly stuck bottomed out in the  shaft ,  getting the dowel bolt uncrewed is a nightmare , a replaced dowel locks it all ok .  Grrrr!
this dosnt make any sense, the thread in the selector cant wear, and the thread forces the taper dowel in place , how can the dowel be tight in the shaft location but apparently loose in the selector threads ,  and you cant undo it , its gorilla tight, but not in its  threads   more Grr!!,
pete


1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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TR7th Heaven
September 21, 2017, 5:47pm Report to Moderator


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Lots of recommendations for Mike Papworth but he did my Vitesse gearbox and I wasn't happy.
Firstly, it cost over £100 more than quoted. When I collected the box, Mike showed me a tin full of worn bits to justify this but they could've been from anywhere and he knew I was no expert.
More importantly, whilst the rebuilt box worked it was noisy in the lower 3 gears and got progressively noisier over the weeks following. I complained to Mike but his reply was 'Happy motoring'
It ruined the car for me so despite having spent thousands on resorting it I sold it on. I was just heartbroken.
Not sure whether the major suppliers are any better.
Rich


Bootiful Norfolk  
1972 Triumph Spitfire MKIV

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Nick Jones
September 21, 2017, 8:12pm Report to Moderator

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Trouble with rebuilding these now is that most have been rebuilt several times before and critical parts are often pretty much worn out.  The quality of the result is necessarily strongly related to the basic condition of the box supplied.  Though bearings, synchros and most shafts are available new, the gears, sleeves, spacers etc are mostly not, so either you are re-using worn parts, or worse, using a mixture of less worn parts from different 'boxes.  They can be made to work perfectly well, but they are not always as quiet as they should be.

When you go for a basic "service exchange" from one of the big players you take pot luck.  This could be a winner (or at least no loss) if you know your own starting point to be pretty bad, but if you know your start point to be quite reasonable then you are better off using someone like Mike to freshen it up - just make it clear that you want your box back!

I've got a GT6 'box of unknown condition to look inside at some point.  I'm not very optimistic as every 6 cylinder 3 rail box I've ever looked in has been shot to bits......

Nick


Nick Jones
Somerset UK

Vitesse Mk 1.5 Convertible EFI, Survivor of RBRR 2008, HCR & 10CR 2009, HCR 2010, 10CR2011, HCR 2012, 10CR2013, 10CR2015, HCR 2016 & HCR 2017.
GT6 Mk3 Roto - project in progress
Spitfire MKIV son's project now on the road as a daily driver
2.5 PI Saloon now EFI (PIe?), Engine rebuilt and running sweet.  Diff howling...... Survivor of HCR 2013 & 2014 Gone to live in Swansea

http://www.tengaston.plus.com
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Pete Lewis
September 22, 2017, 9:17am Report to Moderator

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yes i echo Nicks thought

you cant expect utopia from 40 yr old recons

Pete


1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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Slimboyfat
September 22, 2017, 10:42am Report to Moderator

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There have been a couple of chaps (Dennis Benson, and TLD) building all new units for customers.

I know that for a fact because we were selling them all the new factory components, inc all the speed gears, clusters, inputs.  

Between them they have all but cleared us out of some of the critical bits, but anything they have supplied in the last few years should be top notch.


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