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Triumph Torque    Cars    Herald/Vitesse  ›  Gearbox reconditioning
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Gearbox reconditioning Print
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Moss Car Man
July 16, 2017, 8:28am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Mark Hammond
Probably just needs the remote control shifter rebushing.  1 hour and a £15 kit'll see that sorted.

Mark



Really?
Excellent!  I will try that first (although as it's engine out just to get to the remote on a Moss Malvern!   )

Unless......Maybe I can cut an access panel in the tunnel fibreglass.............


www.thesundogs.uk

Rockin' rollin' rhythm & roots!
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Bitumen Boy
July 16, 2017, 8:50am Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Pete Lewis
Or get exchange unit from td fitchets  at £385  


That's gone up a lot since I had one a few years ago - went for the dearer 4 synchro option and think it was under £200. Never had any problems with it (touches wood) though the speedo drive has been a pain in the neck for leaking, the correct size O rings seem hard to come by.
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mazfg
July 16, 2017, 10:57pm Report to Moderator


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Anyone hadoing one from Wins international?  Simular prices. ..


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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mazfg
July 16, 2017, 10:57pm Report to Moderator


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Anyone hadoing one from Wins international?  Simular prices. ..


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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Moss Car Man
July 17, 2017, 9:32am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from mazfg
Anyone hadoing one from Wins international?  Simular prices. ..


Klassik Transmissions quoted around £200 if you send them your 'box.





www.thesundogs.uk

Rockin' rollin' rhythm & roots!
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griffipaul
July 17, 2017, 10:40pm Report to Moderator

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I have rebuilt mini gearboxes in the past so not daunted by doing a vit box , which will soon need doing . However  But the main issue is getting a supply of good quality parts - there is so much crap sold and some bits are made of unobtainium . At least Mike P has best quality bits available . You pays your money and you take you choice.
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Paudman
July 20, 2017, 8:27am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from GT6 M
why not try it yer self
plenty on eer that have done it with v v little knowledge
folk on here will elp oot if stuck

they are quite east t,wuk on, try it

M

Because it scares the s**t out of me.... I've started on a 1200 gearbox and managed to remove the rear extension and replace the bearing and oil seal, plus gasket at the other end. Wee buns so far.
NOW: I need to remove the input shaft to replace the big front bearing which I think(!) is a bit rumbly, although this could just be down to long storage.
First internet forum I looked at mentioned a Churchill tool - okay can fabricate a close copy - but then goes into dropping the lay gears (some guy called Markus!!).... at which point I left in a hurry. The Buckeye Triumph website started on about pressing the bearings off (which disintegrated causing quite a bit of bother) and then setting endfloat and at that point I just decided to leave it alone. I've a garage full of bits that were once units that came apart easily enough, but won't go back together without a degree in rocket science (I have so many diffs with new bearings that I'm scared to use in case I haven't set the preload / end float correctly)
So that's where we're at..... the crossroads of "Do I start it and maybe never finish it, or do I fit it in the car as is and regret it after a few miles when it starts to go wrong?"


If it was made by man, it can be dismantled and rebuilt by man. Usually just not as easily.
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Straight Six
July 20, 2017, 9:51am Report to Moderator


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Experience gained is directly proportional to machinary wrecked.

Get stuck in and view it as a learning experience. Even if you end up with a gearbox which doesn't work you'll have learnt something and can still send it off to a specialist.
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Paudman
July 21, 2017, 4:18pm Report to Moderator

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Ok... so let's start at the beginning. Removing the input shaft.... it doesn't just pull out of the front of the box, as the lower gears (laygears?) are in the way of the larger gear at the end of the input shaft. How are these dropped out of the way and more importantly, refitted? Is it as simple as undoing the allen-key nut at the front of the box?


If it was made by man, it can be dismantled and rebuilt by man. Usually just not as easily.
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glang
July 21, 2017, 5:08pm Report to Moderator

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Paudman
July 21, 2017, 6:02pm Report to Moderator

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Thank you Glang and to my eternal shame I'd forgotten I had that manual for the Herald, plus the Service Notes version as well.
However they show the input shaft being withdrawn by use of what looks like a variation of a slide hammer; in my 1200 the large layshaft gear at the front of the box overlaps the ring on the input shaft, the thin one behind the toothed gear, so it doesn't appear that it can be withdrawn over or through it without moving this first. I have various pullers that will remove it as long as I'm sure no damage will be caused.

(and one point re the other end - the distance washer goes over the end of the rear mainshaft - am I right that it goes on first, THEN the bearing and oil seal? I didn't note the order when removing the assembly....)


If it was made by man, it can be dismantled and rebuilt by man. Usually just not as easily.
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glang
July 21, 2017, 6:20pm Report to Moderator

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its a while since Ive done a box but you have to take out the layshaft axle so that the layshaft drops down out of the way of the input shaft.
The manual shows various special tools but all can be avoided with a bit of ingenuity - for example the input shaft can be taken out by gently tapping its bearing at various points from inside the box with a suitable brass drift.
As for order of components this must be verified from the manual.
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Moss Car Man
July 22, 2017, 6:02am Report to Moderator

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Strike a light! After reading all that - I if my gearbox does need rebuilding I'll definitely send it to an expert!  

Hoping that it is just the remote bushes so have ordered a kit for £14.99.

Just got to find some time to do it......& decide whether to cut an access panel in the fibreglass tunnel or remove the engine & gearbox as it's all a tad inaccessible in the Moss!  


www.thesundogs.uk

Rockin' rollin' rhythm & roots!
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GT6 M
July 22, 2017, 9:42am Report to Moderator

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Need t,drop the layshaft into bottom,  then main shaft,l pull oot
nee need for pulleres,presses, honest, they come of wid a wee bit of tapp,n frae a hide,or other hammer
and other bit, ye need a  drift, to tap the inner race, so it comes oft shaft

Once ye got it all oot, clean it, an set to strip,n it, an re assembling it a few times on a table,or bench, draining board,
so it becomes 2 nd nature, just dont put the split clip on, as it,ll mebe deform wid constant on/off antiks

need a tub of cold Shirt Lifters delight for re assembly, grease is nee good
also need a olde layshaft, cut doon, or a dummmy one med up,  wood or metal,it dont matter, as long as it holds the needles in spot

re thrusts, glue em into spot, this so they no move aboot whenst trying t,put it back t,gither
bit of supa glue onto backs, after cleaning wid thinners

just be carefull aboot the rear bearing whenst tapping back on,  as it can mek the free play ont back thrusts go tight,
put it on, , then tap it back, so as gear is free t, turn



Git stuk, shout HELP

M


One does not have to know how a thing works, to know that it is not working right

Ye div,nt efta no ooa thing wuks, t,no its nut wuk,n reet.







Scaryport,��Cumbria,.
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Paudman
July 23, 2017, 9:28am Report to Moderator

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HELP!
Your first sentence says it all.... "need to drop the layshaft into bottom"....
HOW??????


If it was made by man, it can be dismantled and rebuilt by man. Usually just not as easily.
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