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Jonny-Jimbo
July 5, 2017, 10:32am Report to Moderator

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In Street use situations …
Bedding in when the red EBC surface coating (marked on the pads as Brake In) is applied.
Best procedure is to drive gently avoiding harsh braking unless in an emergency for first 100 miles. In the second 100 miles (up to 200) you can use gently increasing brake pressures when using the brakes.
Only after 200 miles urban driving (not 200 miles on a freeway where brakes are almost unused) should you attempt to apply heavy load and heat to the brakes. To do this final bedding on a QUIET ROAD in safe traffic apply the brakes and slow from 60 to 10 MPH five times in a row. Then drive slowly for a few minutes if safe to do so to allow the brakes to cool. Try to avoid coming to a rest whilst the brakes are heated.
A smell may be noticed from the warm brakes, this is normal. Repeat this procedure a second time after the brakes have TOTALLY cooled down. EBC pads get better with miles. Even after this bed in procedure it can take up to 1500 miles before the pads are at their best. In the meantime the pads will be good and safe but true potential not realised. EBC makes performance pads that last, they do not bed in within 5 minutes driving. Noises will be more likely during the first 1000-1500 miles use whilst this chemical bedding takes place.
NEVER attempt to sand or scotchbrite brake pads to assist it bedding in or noise reduction,this will only make things worse by taking the pads “Off-Flat” and require hundreds of miles driving to seat them again during which time the brakes will feel very dull. The only way to seat pads is against the rotor they will be used on and by following our bedding recommendation.


62 Vitesse 1600 - Slammed & modified
67 2000 - Fitted with 2.5 o/d - 2012 RBRR, 2015 Essex Rally, 2016 HCR, 2016 RBRR
67 2000 Estate - Dormant
70 Herald 13/60 - First car, many bits
77 CZ 125 Sport - 70 miles on the clock
77 Kawasaki KM90 - Shop hack
81 Yamaha DT125 - Many bits
88 Ginetta G4/4 - Dead
88 BMW E30 320i - For Sale
89 Citroen AX GT - Rally car!
90 BMW E30 318iS - Building to FIA spec
90 Mazda Eunos 1.6 - 'Popeye'
93 BMW 530i - Donor
95 BMW E34 540i - 4L V8
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Matt306
July 5, 2017, 11:47am Report to Moderator

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I've done near enough 100 miles now and feel better bite than el cheapo pads.


Johnd I hear what you are saying... These are fine for my use 60-70mph on roads with decent brake by gap.


Worcestershire Area Organiser search Facebook for Club Triumph Worcester
Triumph 13/60 1970 Convertible  first car restoration, many botches much learnt... Now back MOTd and Taxed... 2016 RBRR COMPLETE
1974 Spitfire Mk IV in Yellow and Rust... for restoration
Triumph 1000cc 1991 Daytona got to go to pay for Yellow Peril
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JohnD
July 5, 2017, 12:07pm Report to Moderator


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JJ,
was that the EBC recommendations on 'bedding in'?
I'm surprised they need such delay.  Does seem almost unsafe that new pads are not fully effective for 200 miles or more!
Most pads can be done immediately, by that process or similar.  It's not a physical thing, conforming their faces to the shape of the disc.   The objective is to condition the pads by heating them to the highest temp they will face, without fading them.  

John


Serial Vitesse racer.

Old Blue.  1995-2001
Silverback. 2001-2007
SofS. 2007 - to date.

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glang
July 5, 2017, 12:22pm Report to Moderator

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Does anyone know what happens in the long term if this recommended procedure isnt followed?
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JohnD
July 5, 2017, 1:10pm Report to Moderator


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Nothing, except they may never be optimal.

This page offers a further reasosn for 'bedding in'.  They're the experts.
http://stoptech.com/technical-.....res/brake-pad-bed-in

Jhn


Serial Vitesse racer.

Old Blue.  1995-2001
Silverback. 2001-2007
SofS. 2007 - to date.

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Beans
July 5, 2017, 3:18pm Report to Moderator

Theo Boonen
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Quoted from yorkshire_spam
Out of curiosity, do greenstuff require a bedding in/curing process like the M1144 do? I sometimes wonder if the varied opinions of M1144 might (in part) be down to people not following the correct procedure.

All pads need bedding in properly.
The pads I have fitted over the years all came with bedding-in-instructions.

Never had had issues with Green Stuff or Mintex M1144 (or the M171 I currently have on one of the cars)
Only problems with pads so far was when I fitted some pads from a general brand (forgot its name)
After two trips into the Alps they were completely glazed (might be my driving style  )




1976 TR7 FHC (bought for its wheels in 2013, currently undergoing some TLC ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (a.k.a. Kermette, my first car bought in 1988 )
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined, a.k.a. 't Kreng, bought as a parts donor in 1994, the rest is history as they say)

http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/
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Jonny-Jimbo
July 6, 2017, 8:00am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from JohnD
JJ,
was that the EBC recommendations on 'bedding in'?
I'm surprised they need such delay.  Does seem almost unsafe that new pads are not fully effective for 200 miles or more!
Most pads can be done immediately, by that process or similar.  It's not a physical thing, conforming their faces to the shape of the disc.   The objective is to condition the pads by heating them to the highest temp they will face, without fading them.  

John


Yes John, that is lifted directly from the EBC website on bedding in procedure for their pads.



62 Vitesse 1600 - Slammed & modified
67 2000 - Fitted with 2.5 o/d - 2012 RBRR, 2015 Essex Rally, 2016 HCR, 2016 RBRR
67 2000 Estate - Dormant
70 Herald 13/60 - First car, many bits
77 CZ 125 Sport - 70 miles on the clock
77 Kawasaki KM90 - Shop hack
81 Yamaha DT125 - Many bits
88 Ginetta G4/4 - Dead
88 BMW E30 320i - For Sale
89 Citroen AX GT - Rally car!
90 BMW E30 318iS - Building to FIA spec
90 Mazda Eunos 1.6 - 'Popeye'
93 BMW 530i - Donor
95 BMW E34 540i - 4L V8
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glang
July 6, 2017, 3:12pm Report to Moderator

Posts: 619
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Quoted from JohnD
Nothing, except they may never be optimal.

This page offers a further reasosn for 'bedding in'.  They're the experts.
http://stoptech.com/technical-.....res/brake-pad-bed-in

Jhn


Reading this article indicates that the special bedding in process is to get a coating of pad material onto the disc which then improves high temperature performance of the brakes. It seems usual braking ie at lower temperatures is not much affected by having the coating or not so I assume that the difference felt by the user depends a lot on their driving style.
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Matt306
July 6, 2017, 8:05pm Report to Moderator

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Given my brakes are single circuit and designed decades ago... i treat them with caution and leave a good gap


Worcestershire Area Organiser search Facebook for Club Triumph Worcester
Triumph 13/60 1970 Convertible  first car restoration, many botches much learnt... Now back MOTd and Taxed... 2016 RBRR COMPLETE
1974 Spitfire Mk IV in Yellow and Rust... for restoration
Triumph 1000cc 1991 Daytona got to go to pay for Yellow Peril
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1968Vitesse25
July 7, 2017, 10:05am Report to Moderator

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I too use NOS asbestos brakes. None of the modern materials is as good. The 'Holy Grail' of the brake industry after so many years remains to find a material as all round ideal as a braking medium.

If you are worried about the infinitesimal risk from the dust, when you change or adjust them, wear a paper mask and just wash down the shoes and mechanisms into a basin with brake cleaner.
The issue as brake shops was mechanics blowing off the dust day in, day out with airlines filling the shop with a persistent fog of brake dust.
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1968Vitesse25
July 7, 2017, 10:05am Report to Moderator

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I too use NOS asbestos brakes. None of the modern materials is as good. The 'Holy Grail' of the brake industry after so many years remains to find a material as all round ideal as a braking medium.

If you are worried about the infinitesimal risk from the dust, when you change or adjust them, wear a paper mask and just wash down the shoes and mechanisms into a basin with brake cleaner.
The issue as brake shops was mechanics blowing off the dust day in, day out with airlines filling the shop with a persistent fog of brake dust.
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cliftyhanger
July 7, 2017, 1:11pm Report to Moderator

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Paper masks are useless when it comes to asbestos. The fibres to worry about are the ones that need an electron microscope to see. When I was in the industry we tested for bigger fibres, if they where present we assumed the smaller ones were too.

Best advice, wash the brakes down (soapy water is ideal, or aerosol brake cleaner) and wash away. Never use an airline.
Same applies to clutches, and I bet the vast majority of our cars are still fitted with asbestos clutches.


Clive Senior

Location-Brighton, East Sussex
Foxy is here, 1500od tax exempt Toledo. Now has the decent engine back in Slant 4 engine bolted in, sprint box and axle.Now has fresh MoT. Needs paint though.
Spitfire Zetec project is started work progressing slooooowly on the road!
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