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daver clasper
June 4, 2017, 2:05pm Report to Moderator
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Hi

This is standard Lucas starter on Vitesse.

It has started to sometimes make a grating noise for a second or so when turned on then disengages. Doesn't feel like it's turning engine.

Then it will be ok on second attempt

It can do this on a cold or hot start.

It's a different thing from when it sometimes tries to start from cold for a second then disengages.

Starter is not loose and starter pinion and flywheel ring gear looked very good about 5000 miles ago. Starter pinion was also clean and free moving on shaft at this time.

Any ideas please.

Thanks, Dave
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paulfosh
June 4, 2017, 3:22pm Report to Moderator

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could be teeth on the flywheel worn?
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poppyman
June 4, 2017, 4:08pm Report to Moderator
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did you oil the shaft or bendix? if so it will be clogged up with clutch dust.
strip it down and clean with brake cleaner and do not lubricate. it should be fine then
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Matt306
June 14, 2017, 9:22pm Report to Moderator

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On a slightly different problem my starter tends to disengage a bit soon... any thoughts?


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Triumph 13/60 1970 Convertible  first car restoration, many botches much learnt... Now back MOTd and Taxed... 2016 RBRR COMPLETE
1974 Spitfire Mk IV in Yellow and Rust... for restoration
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RobPearce
June 15, 2017, 10:18am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Matt306
On a slightly different problem my starter tends to disengage a bit soon... any thoughts?

What do you call "a bit soon"? The Bendix gear disengages because it gets kicked out by the flywheel. This happens when the crank turns faster than the starter motor, as a result of a cylinder firing.

If you're suffering the problem my Toledo used to have (and the PI would have had in terminal degree if it were a Bendix starter) then you get a "toyoyoy-splutter-wheeee" as the engine fires once but doesn't start. The problem here is not the starter motor but the weak engine starting. Try to sort that out.


Current fleet
1967 Vitesse 2L conv "Tessa"
1970 Spitfire Mk3 (project) "Toby"
1972 GT6 Mk3
Not enough time or space
Recently sold:
1972 2.5 PI estate "Harry" (gone to russell on here)
1973 Toledo 2-door "Spike" (gone to a club official)
Used to have:
1968 Vitesse 2L saloon
1980 Dolomite 1500
1977 Dolomite 1850
1980 Dolomite Sprint
1982 TR7 DHC Sprint
1975 2500S saloon
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate (with 1500 Spit engine)
1975 Stag
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Matt306
June 16, 2017, 8:59pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from RobPearce

What do you call "a bit soon"? The Bendix gear disengages because it gets kicked out by the flywheel. This happens when the crank turns faster than the starter motor, as a result of a cylinder firing.

If you're suffering the problem my Toledo used to have (and the PI would have had in terminal degree if it were a Bendix starter) then you get a "toyoyoy-splutter-wheeee" as the engine fires once but doesn't start. The problem here is not the starter motor but the weak engine starting. Try to sort that out.


Not thought of mine as a weak starter, usually fire quite well, got electronic ignition, three core plugs, gold lucas coil, new leads (well 2 and a half thousand miles ago.)

But your descriptor is fantastic though


Worcestershire Area Organiser search Facebook for Club Triumph Worcester
Triumph 13/60 1970 Convertible  first car restoration, many botches much learnt... Now back MOTd and Taxed... 2016 RBRR COMPLETE
1974 Spitfire Mk IV in Yellow and Rust... for restoration
Triumph 1000cc 1991 Daytona got to go to pay for Yellow Peril
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RobPearce
June 18, 2017, 11:55am Report to Moderator

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Ironically, a really good strong spark can lead to the "weak starting" problem. If the spark fires the first cylinder over compression (or the second) then it's likely to have less than a full air charge, because it started half way up the compression stroke (or down the intake stroke with very poor fuel mixing).

Does the problem happen when cold, hot, always? You may find a bit of fiddling with choke settings might help. I've had more than one Triumph that needed careful adjustment - the GT6 wants absolutely full choke for a cold start but immediately needs it half way in to keep running.


Current fleet
1967 Vitesse 2L conv "Tessa"
1970 Spitfire Mk3 (project) "Toby"
1972 GT6 Mk3
Not enough time or space
Recently sold:
1972 2.5 PI estate "Harry" (gone to russell on here)
1973 Toledo 2-door "Spike" (gone to a club official)
Used to have:
1968 Vitesse 2L saloon
1980 Dolomite 1500
1977 Dolomite 1850
1980 Dolomite Sprint
1982 TR7 DHC Sprint
1975 2500S saloon
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate (with 1500 Spit engine)
1975 Stag
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Matt306
June 19, 2017, 8:55am Report to Moderator

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Posts: 770
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Quoted from RobPearce
Ironically, a really good strong spark can lead to the "weak starting" problem. If the spark fires the first cylinder over compression (or the second) then it's likely to have less than a full air charge, because it started half way up the compression stroke (or down the intake stroke with very poor fuel mixing).

Does the problem happen when cold, hot, always? You may find a bit of fiddling with choke settings might help. I've had more than one Triumph that needed careful adjustment - the GT6 wants absolutely full choke for a cold start but immediately needs it half way in to keep running.


You could be correct, hot and cold although mostly hot thinking about it. Perhaps I upgraded the ignition too much, with triple core plugs, new leads, gold coil and electronic ignition and dizzy rebuild.


Worcestershire Area Organiser search Facebook for Club Triumph Worcester
Triumph 13/60 1970 Convertible  first car restoration, many botches much learnt... Now back MOTd and Taxed... 2016 RBRR COMPLETE
1974 Spitfire Mk IV in Yellow and Rust... for restoration
Triumph 1000cc 1991 Daytona got to go to pay for Yellow Peril
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Matt306
July 4, 2017, 7:35pm Report to Moderator

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The Starter motor failed tonight leading to a tow truck to get me home. I have opened her up and found the bushes burnt. These aren't old bushes and not long fitted. They were a tightish fit and i suspect the old springs aren't working like they should pushing the bushes up to make contact making an arc and burning the contacts. I have cleaned it all off and its fine again cranking at good speed.

Anyone know where to get the springs?

Oh my starter doesnt look like the herald one on Canleys , looks more like the dynamo.


Worcestershire Area Organiser search Facebook for Club Triumph Worcester
Triumph 13/60 1970 Convertible  first car restoration, many botches much learnt... Now back MOTd and Taxed... 2016 RBRR COMPLETE
1974 Spitfire Mk IV in Yellow and Rust... for restoration
Triumph 1000cc 1991 Daytona got to go to pay for Yellow Peril
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nang
July 5, 2017, 5:42am Report to Moderator

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Suggest you take a file to the brushes so they a fairly good fit to the brush holders without sticking. Probably nothing wrong with the springs.
Tony.


If all else fails-Read the Instructions! ��Wairoa
New Zealand

1976 2500TC (converted to S spec) owned since 1998.

1999 BMW 2800 cc Z3 Convertible.
 
2003 BMW 525i Touring.
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Matt306
July 5, 2017, 11:43am Report to Moderator

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Dremel was applied to the side of bushes. The springs did look a little underwhelming though


Worcestershire Area Organiser search Facebook for Club Triumph Worcester
Triumph 13/60 1970 Convertible  first car restoration, many botches much learnt... Now back MOTd and Taxed... 2016 RBRR COMPLETE
1974 Spitfire Mk IV in Yellow and Rust... for restoration
Triumph 1000cc 1991 Daytona got to go to pay for Yellow Peril
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