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mazfg
May 24, 2017, 8:25pm Report to Moderator


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I had all my rear suspension off over the winter and rebuilt it back together. Took the spring out, stripped it, got it shot blasted and painted, new buttons, poly bushes etc. Diff came out and I fitted new poly bushes. Rear axles checked over, poly bushes in them were all good, new UJ's fitted.

Now I've noticed when sitting on my drive the N/S wheel is ever so, ever so at a negative camber, whereas the O/S is slightly positive (kind of as it should be).

Any ideas, fixes? Should I be alarmed? Been driving it since March, when it all went back together? Only noticed it when on my drive and I turn into it at a 90 degree angle, hard right. As usual it was fine before it decided to take it all off  

Cheers in advance


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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Mark Hammond
May 24, 2017, 10:22pm Report to Moderator

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Seized rear trunnion maybe?

Mark


Herald 1200 Saloon, owned (in the family) from new, Royal Blue/Black trim
[color=purple]MX-5 Z-Sport (Tweaked to 200bhp)2007,
Suzuki Vitara S Auto, Cosmic Black, 2017.
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Pete Lewis
May 25, 2017, 12:43pm Report to Moderator

Tssc Herts and Beds A.O.
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yes you must roll the car after jacking to level out

its worth do a simple tape measure of the exposed drive shaft . there are two , a ex 1500 spit is approx 1/2" longer that gives you silly cambers

Pete


1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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daver clasper
May 25, 2017, 3:52pm Report to Moderator
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Hi

Sorry, a bit of a high jack here if ok.

I think, it's since I replaced my front wishbones with Poly's, I'm having pretty rapid on outer edge of nearside front tyre.

I never checked camber after doing it (mainly because car is parked on street) and so no level ground).

I did lower car before tightening bushes, though never thought to roll it. This is advisable even with Poly's?, as I thought they were free moving compared to rubber bushes.

Any advice great please

Thanks, Dave
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mazfg
May 25, 2017, 5:29pm Report to Moderator


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Quoted from Pete Lewis
yes you must roll the car after jacking to level out

its worth do a simple tape measure of the exposed drive shaft . there are two , a ex 1500 spit is approx 1/2" longer that gives you silly cambers

Pete


It was ok before. ..had a slight  positive camber before. .now near side is very..and i say very slightly the other way.

Could it be to do with when you tighten up the spring eye. ..something about loading it up before tightening?

Reunion poly bushed are fine and when I jack up either side the wheels pull in as they should.


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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mazfg
July 6, 2017, 1:52pm Report to Moderator


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Well, I swapped the spring round. Originally when I first took the spring out..the "FRONT" stamp at the top was actually at the rear. When I refurb'd it I put it round the correct way...so thought his may have had something to do with it. Anyway, today (in the heat) I swapped it back....all without having to remove the drive shafts too   .  

Conclusion....: It's still the same??


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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JohnD
July 6, 2017, 4:47pm Report to Moderator


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I'm told the origin of the  "front" mark was this.
When the production line for Heralds was first set up, the installation of the spring caused hold ups.
The line workers dithered about which way around it should go.
So further batches of spring were marked "front" and the bottleneck disappeared.
Brilliant production management!
Why wasn't it marked in the first place?
Because it doesn't matter!
The spring is symmetrical and can go either way.
John


Serial Vitesse racer.

Old Blue.  1995-2001
Silverback. 2001-2007
SofS. 2007 - to date.

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mazfg
July 6, 2017, 6:02pm Report to Moderator


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Thanks John..what a grear story! !


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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ahebron
July 6, 2017, 9:13pm Report to Moderator


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Quoted from mazfg
I had all my rear suspension off over the winter and rebuilt it back together. Took the spring out, stripped it, got it shot blasted and painted, new buttons, poly bushes etc. Diff came out and I fitted new poly bushes. Rear axles checked over, poly bushes in them were all good, new UJ's fitted.

Now I've noticed when sitting on my drive the N/S wheel is ever so, ever so at a negative camber, whereas the O/S is slightly positive (kind of as it should be).

Any ideas, fixes? Should I be alarmed? Been driving it since March, when it all went back together? Only noticed it when on my drive and I turn into it at a 90 degree angle, hard right. As usual it was fine before it decided to take it all off  

Cheers in advance


Drive it along a straight flat road, stop the car hop out and have a look see what it is doing.
Maybe turning into your drive at slow speed is doing something to the suspension.

Adrian


Eastern shore of Te Whanganui-a-Tara

Vitesse 6 (owned since 1982, driven for 6 months a long time ago)
Vitesse Mk11 Conv (owned since 1992, never driven but the first Vitesse I looked at buying back in early 1982)
2000 BMW R1150 GS
2003 FFRR TD6 HSE
2014 VW Amarok Highline 4Motion
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mazfg
July 6, 2017, 10:41pm Report to Moderator


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I'll try that.

If I jack the car up on the chassis behind the diff. .both wheels move in....but I notice the n/s not so much...


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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kelvin45
July 7, 2017, 1:06am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from JohnD
I'm told the origin of the  "front" mark was this.
When the production line for Heralds was first set up, the installation of the spring caused hold ups.
The line workers dithered about which way around it should go.
So further batches of spring were marked "front" and the bottleneck disappeared.
Brilliant production management!
Why wasn't it marked in the first place?
Because it doesn't matter!
The spring is symmetrical and can go either way.
John


Interesting information John!
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Jonny-Jimbo
July 7, 2017, 8:50am Report to Moderator

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Wouldn't turning a hard 90 degree turn at slow speed cause one side of the suspension to jack up? Mazfg - can you go for a drive, and then approach your drive from the other direction, but make an equivalent 90 degree turn onto it from the other way? This would cause the other side of the suspension to jack up.


62 Vitesse 1600 - Slammed & modified
67 2000 - Fitted with 2.5 o/d - 2012 RBRR, 2015 Essex Rally, 2016 HCR, 2016 RBRR
67 2000 Estate - Dormant
70 Herald 13/60 - First car, many bits
77 CZ 125 Sport - 70 miles on the clock
77 Kawasaki KM90 - Shop hack
81 Yamaha DT125 - Many bits
88 Ginetta G4/4 - Dead
88 BMW E30 320i - For Sale
89 Citroen AX GT - Rally car!
90 BMW E30 318iS - Building to FIA spec
90 Mazda Eunos 1.6 - 'Popeye'
93 BMW 530i - Donor
95 BMW E34 540i - 4L V8
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RobPearce
July 7, 2017, 9:10am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from mazfg
If I jack the car up on the chassis behind the diff. .both wheels move in....but I notice the n/s not so much...


That could be down to the spring, but you've already eliminated that, or it could be that the n/s trunnion bush is stiff. Weren't there a bunch out there a few years back with the tube too short?


Current fleet
1967 Vitesse 2L conv "Tessa"
1970 Spitfire Mk3 (project) "Toby"
1972 GT6 Mk3
Not enough time or space
Recently sold:
1972 2.5 PI estate "Harry" (gone to russell on here)
1973 Toledo 2-door "Spike" (gone to a club official)
Used to have:
1968 Vitesse 2L saloon
1980 Dolomite 1500
1977 Dolomite 1850
1980 Dolomite Sprint
1982 TR7 DHC Sprint
1975 2500S saloon
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate (with 1500 Spit engine)
1975 Stag
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heraldcoupe
July 8, 2017, 6:08pm Report to Moderator

Mid-life crisis pending
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Quoted from RobPearce


That could be down to the spring, but you've already eliminated that, or it could be that the n/s trunnion bush is stiff. Weren't there a bunch out there a few years back with the tube too short?


Not quite, but the effect is the same.
One manufacturer of Trunnion bushes is substituting the correct thin cup washer with thicker plain washer. This makes the assembled trunnion bush is wider than the tube, though the tube itself is the correct length. Result is the bush is clamped rigidly rather than the tube, so the trunnion cannot articulate properly.

I had expected these bushes to be discredited as unusable pretty quickly, but they've been in circulation for some years now and show no signs of going away. While it's fashionable to criticise County/XRN products, their Powerdrive branded trunnion bushes are made to the correct design,

Cheers,
Bill.


Enthusiast and collector of early Heralds.

"The trouble with quotes over the Internet is that you never know if they are genuine." -- Abraham Lincoln
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mazfg
July 9, 2017, 8:04am Report to Moderator


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My Trunnion bushes are poly type..so no cups or washers..just the 2 part poly bush and stainless tube.
http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/rear-trunion-bush-kit-axle-set-supeflex-driveshaft-models-2


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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