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Triumph Torque    Cars    Herald/Vitesse  ›  How to attach 1200 hood to rear deck lip?
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How to attach 1200 hood to rear deck lip? Print
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Scimher
April 7, 2017, 11:47am Report to Moderator

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I have a replacement 2nd hand hood already attached to a hoodframe (could be 13/60 - can't remember now...) to be fitted to my 1200 convertible. What would be the best method of securing - (the rear deck has seen better days!)??
Also, I'm looking to use ratchet straps to correct the infamous 'tub spread'.......should this be done before or after fitting the hood/frame?  
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herald948
April 7, 2017, 3:53pm Report to Moderator


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I would think that utilizing the original finisher strip (#73 in the diagram from Canley Classics in the link below) along with the associated fasteners and screws, as original, would be the way to go. Where the hood actually fastens to the deck would not be affected by your use of the ratchet straps, but the hood frame mounting might be, so you might want to fit the hood and frame first?

http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-herald-13/60-convertible-hood


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)
http://triumph-herald.us
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Scimher
April 8, 2017, 3:59pm Report to Moderator

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...Thanks so much for your reply - the original stainless strip is in place & although I've no tonneau cover at the moment, I would like to keep the option open so it's important that I use the correct fasteners which I presume I can source through Canley Classics...

...I'll take your advice & fit the hood & frame first before trying to cure the 'tub-spread'.........(unless there are a number of views to the contrary...)  
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Scimher
April 17, 2017, 12:01pm Report to Moderator

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Well, so much for utilising ratchet straps AFTER the replacement hood/frame-combined have been bolted on - my pro-pal Andy actually had a long ratchet strap handy when I called down at the unit, the other day, that he'd been using on another job. He then took me by surprise by saying that as he was fed up of hearing the words ''tub spread'', 'let's do it now'...SO...biting the bullet we put the strap around the rear tub and Andy ratcheted it in by approx. 2'' - maybe a little more...there was a worrying 'crack' noise from the protesting offside B-post area, at one point...Once released the reassuring thing was that both doors did still latch and hold - phew...The slightly disconcerting thing was that the driver's side was a little 'concave' ie. bowing in a little when viewed from behind - I think that it has levelled out a little now. The door bottoms are still protruding a little but not nearly as much, although a little disappointing that they are not a 'flush fit'...

No excuse now not to get the second-hand frame with hood already attached, on. As mentioned the deck lip isn't of the best so want to use countersunk nuts and bolts with washers on the underside. Does anyone know what would be the optimum size/type etc. to go through the sprung washer thingies that secure a tonneau - and where to get them. I assume someone has done similar previously...

Finally, she wasn't happy with her owd dad allowing her Uncle Andy to do the equivalent of winching a Victorian maiden into a whalebone corset so when I came to go to the supermarket the same eve., I jumped in and there was a click when it came to start her - no problem thought I as I jumped out to rock her in 4th - odd broken teeth on ring gear...pencilled in if she ever needs another clutch. This time - no chance...was on a slope so bumped her in 2nd - rear wheels locked when clutch let in. Had to take her big sis., the Scimitar GTE. Next day hitched Scimitar to her and pulled her in reverse - just stalled the Scimitar...put her into top - freed, no problem. Normal service has been resumed so I think she's forgiven me..      
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