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Moss Car Man
March 2, 2017, 5:40pm Report to Moderator

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Hmm, a weird one this....
In the garage the electric fan comes on fine - I have a thermostatic switch plumbed in.
When I drive on the road it overheats, the fan does not come on!
I have replaced the thermostatic switch & checked all the wiring- no faults there.
I have had all the plumbing off & checked for issues - none found.
In the garage, heater inlet & return hoses feel warm but on the road, the return feels cool even though the inlet is hot..!
Do I have a matrix issue perhaps, although I don't get why all is fine in the garage!
HELP PLEASE!


www.thesundogs.uk

Rockin' rollin' rhythm & roots!
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Nick Jones
March 2, 2017, 5:54pm Report to Moderator

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Overheats as in the gauge shows hot or overheats as in boils over and spews water and steam everywhere?

If the former I suspect you may have an instrumentation problem rather than actual overheating.  Is the fuel gauge behaving normally?

Nick


Nick Jones
Somerset UK

Vitesse Mk 1.5 Convertible EFI, Survivor of RBRR 2008, HCR & 10CR 2009, HCR 2010, 10CR2011, HCR 2012, 10CR2013, 10CR2015, HCR 2016 & HCR 2017.
GT6 Mk3 Roto - project in progress
Spitfire MKIV son's project now on the road as a daily driver
2.5 PI Saloon now EFI (PIe?), Engine rebuilt and running sweet.  Diff howling...... Survivor of HCR 2013 & 2014 Gone to live in Swansea

http://www.tengaston.plus.com
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Mark Hammond
March 2, 2017, 7:03pm Report to Moderator

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Does the heater work?  If so, then my guess is the voltage stabiliser which is screwed to the rear of either the speedo or the fuel/temp gauge cluster dial.  10 minutes/£12 to fix.

Mark


Herald 1200 Saloon, owned (in the family) from new, Royal Blue/Black trim
[color=purple]MX-5 Z-Sport (Tweaked to 200bhp)2007,
Suzuki Vitara S Auto, Cosmic Black, 2017.
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Pete Lewis
March 2, 2017, 7:23pm Report to Moderator

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Yes duff voltage stabiliser gives high readings , you probably get higher voltages out of the charging system running being more than when idling
Hence ok in garage and shows hot on a run

pete


1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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Moss Car Man
March 3, 2017, 8:18am Report to Moderator

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I will have another go at this problem today but....
Temp. gauge seems to work ok & the engine does get too hot & start overflowing water & steam.
The heater does work but the coolish return hose troubles me.

Having checked that all the hoses, radiator etc. are clear, could it be a blockage in the engine block stopping water circulating?

There is no noise or leak from the water pump.





www.thesundogs.uk

Rockin' rollin' rhythm & roots!
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Stuart Wilson
March 3, 2017, 8:26am Report to Moderator
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Try bypassing the heater by joining the hoses together, see what happens then


1982 TR7 FHC "Sprint"
Moss Roadster - upgrade now in progress
1985 Yamaha FZ750 -- looking to replace with something new
1997 Vauxhall Calibra 2.5 V6 in need of a little TLC -- looking to sell it
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1988 Vauxhall Nova 1.2 merit (now stored inside, future classic?)
You can never have too many toys!!

2012 RBRR  TR7 "Sprint" car 16 (completed)
2014 RBRR Moss Roadster car 72 (retired)
2016 RBRR Moss Roadster TR7 "Sprint" car 123 (completed)
2018 RBRR Moss or TR7 --- choices
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Nick Jones
March 3, 2017, 9:11am Report to Moderator

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Presumably your electric fan switch is in the rad outlet hose?

Sounds like you are getting very little flow through the radiator - not enough to cool the engine when it is actually under load, but the radiator is doing enough cooling that the outlet temperature remains low and thus doesn't trigger the fan.

Suspect number one would be the thermostat not fully opening (I don't care how new it is).  Cook it up in a saucepan to check

Suspect number two is a blockage somewhere in the main circulation system.  Possibly the radiator itself though the fact that it actually seems to be cooling ok makes this a bit less likely.  Side systems (heater, inlet manifold etc) can be ignored for now

Suspect number three is the water pump, though if the engine has been previously and recently working fine you can probably discount this.  Problems could include corrosion to the impeller vanes themselves or to the housing leading to excessive clearances between the two, which really spoil pump efficiency.  If the heater is working well (hoses nice and toasty plus decent heat output, bearing in mind its only a Herald heater!) even when on the road the pump is most likely fine.

Nick


Nick Jones
Somerset UK

Vitesse Mk 1.5 Convertible EFI, Survivor of RBRR 2008, HCR & 10CR 2009, HCR 2010, 10CR2011, HCR 2012, 10CR2013, 10CR2015, HCR 2016 & HCR 2017.
GT6 Mk3 Roto - project in progress
Spitfire MKIV son's project now on the road as a daily driver
2.5 PI Saloon now EFI (PIe?), Engine rebuilt and running sweet.  Diff howling...... Survivor of HCR 2013 & 2014 Gone to live in Swansea

http://www.tengaston.plus.com
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poppyman
March 3, 2017, 11:19am Report to Moderator
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when the engine is hot, do all the hoses feel hot? if not possible air lock.
if hoses are hot? do they feel very hard!! ie under pressure. if so i would suspect head gasket gone between cylinders 2 and 3. (very common in my day)
you wont be able to check this with a commpresion test!!
if you have have access to a co meter, see if you get a reading by hovering the tube around the rad neck (without touching the water of course) this will pick up exhaust gases in the system and will confirm head gasket.
if you pm me i will give you my home phone no.if you are still having problems.
good luck,
tony.
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Moss Car Man
March 3, 2017, 6:06pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from poppyman
when the engine is hot, do all the hoses feel hot? if not possible air lock.


Nail on head I think, Tony!
Thanks everyone...I think I have found the issue!
Stripped it all down again today (I should mention this is a Herald 13/60 based Moss Malvern)...a nightmare to get at, the front & bonnet has to come off...!
There is extra, & convoluted, plumbing on the Moss due to the narrow front end & the filler is not atop the rad.
I think I had a massive air lock causing an dry rad. with water only flowing thru the heater & head..!
Having taken the front off & flushed everything thru again, inc. engine block, I have filled it thru the normally unused rad. cap, allowing  for a better fill up!...........Waiting for thermostat housing gasket sealer to cure....will keep you posted.......


www.thesundogs.uk

Rockin' rollin' rhythm & roots!
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poppyman
March 3, 2017, 7:09pm Report to Moderator
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if indeed an air lock? jack car up at the front so as the cap you add the water to is at a higher level  than any other part of the cooling system with the engine running!  it will then make it bleed its air out much easier.
this trick worked on many a car before the bleed screw was thought of on some modern cars.
try it with plain water first so as not to waste a\freeze. if this cures problem?
you can then undo the drain tap keeping the engine running and add neat a\freeze untill you see the a\freeze coming out of the drain plug, and then tighten everything up.
good luck,

tony.    
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Moss Car Man
April 10, 2017, 1:47pm Report to Moderator

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Finally got back to working on the Moss the other day.......the overheating was down to a massive engine block airlock!    All is running fine now, but I have also fitted a manual override on/off switch in the fan circuitry as well as a dashboard light to show me when the fan is on.   Thanks for all the tips, folks!  


www.thesundogs.uk

Rockin' rollin' rhythm & roots!
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