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Jonny-Jimbo
January 5, 2017, 8:49am Report to Moderator

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I think Mr Alex was 'diplomatic' on the RBRR too - must be mellowing in his old age.

JohnD - my point on the clamp was that to fit it correctly it is clamped and located by the two 1/4UNF bolts, NOT by the grub screw as that sets the preload. So the information given of fiddling with the locknut wouldn't have helped Paula in her situation.

Paula, glad you're getting it sorted, and as has been said by others, the work you have said you've done on your previous car is beyond the average beginner, so at the least you must be an advanced amateur  . As has been said Dale's a good guy and active in the club too - I'm up in the Triumph Homeland, so I have not used his services myself, but generally with garages etc you can take the majority vote as a good sign.


62 Vitesse 1600 - Slammed & modified
67 2000 - Fitted with 2.5 o/d - 2012 RBRR, 2015 Essex Rally, 2016 HCR, 2016 RBRR
67 2000 Estate - Dormant
70 Herald 13/60 - First car, many bits
77 CZ 125 Sport - 70 miles on the clock
77 Kawasaki KM90 - Shop hack
81 Yamaha DT125 - Many bits
88 Ginetta G4/4 - Dead
88 BMW E30 320i - For Sale
89 Citroen AX GT - Rally car!
90 BMW E30 318iS - Building to FIA spec
90 Mazda Eunos 1.6 - 'Popeye'
93 BMW 530i - Donor
95 BMW E34 540i - 4L V8
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JohnD
January 5, 2017, 9:29am Report to Moderator


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JJ,
Disagree - read my post 28, where I copied the instruction from the original manual on how to secure the steering column impact clamp.

The tightness of the grub screw is determined by tightening that, NOT the two bolts that secure the clamp on the column.
And the original instructions specifically say, that the grub screw should be hand tight, without bending the Allen key (I paraphrase).

This is exactly NOT what you suggest.
When two "experts"  (has beens, under pressure) are so diametrically opposed, perhaps the Court of CT should decide!
John


Serial Vitesse racer.

Old Blue.  1995-2001
Silverback. 2001-2007
SofS. 2007 - to date.

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RobPearce
January 5, 2017, 10:07am Report to Moderator

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John/Jon,
I think probably you are talking at cross purposes. JD's point is that setting the grub screw is not hard and should be done if it's suspect. JJ's point is that it's rare for that to be the cause of the problem and much more common for people to simply fit the whole shebang wrong, in which case the other two bolts are the ones you need to deal with. Indeed, I think JJ is emphasising that, given the requirement to set the grub screw correctly, where the other two nuts are simply "done up tight", it is only sensible to release the easy ones, check it's all fitted right and re-tighten, then test, before contemplating the slightly more complex bit. And, while I haven't re-checked the workshop manual for a long time, I do recall it containing a statement that the grub screw should not be disturbed (when removing the clamp or adjusting the reach) for precisely the reason JJ gives.
I gather from the thread that Paula has done as JJ suggested and found that he was right and this was, indeed, the problem. Had there still been a problem now, JD's advice would be the correct next step (and I think JJ would agree here).

(now we need eleven more "court of CT" jury members to chime in )


Current fleet
1967 Vitesse 2L conv "Tessa"
1970 Spitfire Mk3 (project) "Toby"
1972 GT6 Mk3
Not enough time or space
Recently sold:
1972 2.5 PI estate "Harry" (gone to russell on here)
1973 Toledo 2-door "Spike" (gone to a club official)
Used to have:
1968 Vitesse 2L saloon
1980 Dolomite 1500
1977 Dolomite 1850
1980 Dolomite Sprint
1982 TR7 DHC Sprint
1975 2500S saloon
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate (with 1500 Spit engine)
1975 Stag
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Hogie
January 5, 2017, 10:10am Report to Moderator
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Hi Paula,
             if you think getting to Moordale's (North London) may be too demanding there is Enginuity in Acton and Rees Brothers in Aldershot.
They are both well into TRiumphs.

But don;t forget to investigate a sympathetic garage near to you.

Roger


TR4A 1967 daily(ish) driver
TR41962  having surgery at present
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Jonny-Jimbo
January 5, 2017, 10:42am Report to Moderator

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Thanks Rob - as usual other people can say what I'm trying to far better than I can. I have never been the most eloquent or the most proficient at writing. I know what I mean but struggle to convey it. To me Rob has covered what I was trying to say. You may disagree.

Paula, as Hogie has said, there is Enginuity; I went to view a car they were selling a few years back and they seemed like a reasonable bunch of guys. My other halfs family are in Ealing and another buddy is down by Kempton Park; I'll keep an eye out for your Vitesse when I'm down there!


62 Vitesse 1600 - Slammed & modified
67 2000 - Fitted with 2.5 o/d - 2012 RBRR, 2015 Essex Rally, 2016 HCR, 2016 RBRR
67 2000 Estate - Dormant
70 Herald 13/60 - First car, many bits
77 CZ 125 Sport - 70 miles on the clock
77 Kawasaki KM90 - Shop hack
81 Yamaha DT125 - Many bits
88 Ginetta G4/4 - Dead
88 BMW E30 320i - For Sale
89 Citroen AX GT - Rally car!
90 BMW E30 318iS - Building to FIA spec
90 Mazda Eunos 1.6 - 'Popeye'
93 BMW 530i - Donor
95 BMW E34 540i - 4L V8
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Paula
January 5, 2017, 1:14pm Report to Moderator

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Update!
I've changed: Plugs, Point, Condenser, Rotor, Distro Cap, Plugs, Leads and coil.
It started straight away and was running lovely. I sat in it idling with the heater running and after 10 mins it started running lumpy and died.
I tried to restart it, but the battery was flat.
I've pulled a plug out and it's very black.
I'm now charging the battery up so i can try again.
Any ideas?
I was so pleased for 10 mins!!
Thanks.
Paula



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Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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Nick Jones
January 5, 2017, 1:45pm Report to Moderator

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Did you put the choke in?  Is the choke fully disengaging?

Always worth re-checking points gap also as they do sometimes close up quite quick when new.  Flat battery and no charging at idle might not have been helping either.  Can be an issue with dynamos as they tend not to produce much, if any juice at idle speeds.  If you see lots of sitting in traffic with lights/wipers/blower on in your future an alternator conversion might be a good investment?

I also notice you have a Delco distributor (Vitesse 1600 presumably) and when trying to make one good one of these from the tatty remains of two last weekend for my sons Spitfire I noticed that one had a very scored and rough surface to the cams which would tend to cause accelerated wear to the heel of the points - might be worth a quick check.

Nick


Nick Jones
Somerset UK

Vitesse Mk 1.5 Convertible EFI, Survivor of RBRR 2008, HCR & 10CR 2009, HCR 2010, 10CR2011, HCR 2012, 10CR2013, 10CR2015, HCR 2016 & HCR 2017.
GT6 Mk3 Roto - project in progress
Spitfire MKIV son's project now on the road as a daily driver
2.5 PI Saloon now EFI (PIe?), Engine rebuilt and running sweet.  Diff howling...... Survivor of HCR 2013 & 2014 Gone to live in Swansea

http://www.tengaston.plus.com
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Paula
January 5, 2017, 2:00pm Report to Moderator

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Just tried again with the battery now charged enough. Not firing at all. Just like before. The points gap if fine.
Funny how it seems to run great after it's been left alone for a while and then just goes lumpy and stops after 10 mins. Could it be the plugs oiling up? They are black but not that wet. But hey went black from new in 10 mins. Isn't that odd? The choke seems to work fine.


Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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RobPearce
January 5, 2017, 2:17pm Report to Moderator

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Well... ten minutes from cold with choke might cause a fair bit of soot build-up, though I'd expect it to be thin and easily wiped off.
How well charged is the battery? Tessa will happily crank over with no sign of any ignition for a fair while if the battery is only part-charged. Put in back on charge for a couple of hours and she'll burst into life on the first turn of the key.
What plugs have you got? Some people have said that modern NGK plugs, in particular, 'fail' very quickly if the engine is running rich. I'd be surprised if they went that quickly, though.
Also, there are a lot of dodgy rotor arms out there. It may be worth swapping the old one back in for a test. Likewise the cap & leads, if the arm doesn't help.


Current fleet
1967 Vitesse 2L conv "Tessa"
1970 Spitfire Mk3 (project) "Toby"
1972 GT6 Mk3
Not enough time or space
Recently sold:
1972 2.5 PI estate "Harry" (gone to russell on here)
1973 Toledo 2-door "Spike" (gone to a club official)
Used to have:
1968 Vitesse 2L saloon
1980 Dolomite 1500
1977 Dolomite 1850
1980 Dolomite Sprint
1982 TR7 DHC Sprint
1975 2500S saloon
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate (with 1500 Spit engine)
1975 Stag
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Paula
January 5, 2017, 2:20pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 438
Posts Per Day: 1.19
Quoted from RobPearce
Well... ten minutes from cold with choke might cause a fair bit of soot build-up, though I'd expect it to be thin and easily wiped off.
How well charged is the battery? Tessa will happily crank over with no sign of any ignition for a fair while if the battery is only part-charged. Put in back on charge for a couple of hours and she'll burst into life on the first turn of the key.
What plugs have you got? Some people have said that modern NGK plugs, in particular, 'fail' very quickly if the engine is running rich. I'd be surprised if they went that quickly, though.
Also, there are a lot of dodgy rotor arms out there. It may be worth swapping the old one back in for a test. Likewise the cap & leads, if the arm doesn't help.


Ok. I'll get the battery back on charge. There is a garage down the road (down hill too!) i might just get it going and get it to them.


Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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Paula
January 5, 2017, 2:23pm Report to Moderator

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Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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Paula
January 5, 2017, 2:32pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from RobPearce
Well... ten minutes from cold with choke might cause a fair bit of soot build-up, though I'd expect it to be thin and easily wiped off.
How well charged is the battery? Tessa will happily crank over with no sign of any ignition for a fair while if the battery is only part-charged. Put in back on charge for a couple of hours and she'll burst into life on the first turn of the key.
What plugs have you got? Some people have said that modern NGK plugs, in particular, 'fail' very quickly if the engine is running rich. I'd be surprised if they went that quickly, though.
Also, there are a lot of dodgy rotor arms out there. It may be worth swapping the old one back in for a test. Likewise the cap & leads, if the arm doesn't help.


Your comment about having a fully charged battery has made me think. When i picked the car up they were charging the battery. Maybe that is the fault. Maybe it'll only go with a 100% charged battery?
I'll charge it for another hour and try again, then i have to go out.


Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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glang
January 5, 2017, 3:12pm Report to Moderator

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It does sound very much like too much choke which you could check by taking the air filter box off the carbs - they look like strombergs to me so you should see a bar at the bottom of each intake that rotates as the choke is operated. When the choke is off the bars should have their flat sides on top so that they are flush with the intake bore....
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Paula
January 5, 2017, 3:25pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from glang
It does sound very much like too much choke which you could check by taking the air filter box off the carbs - they look like strombergs to me so you should see a bar at the bottom of each intake that rotates as the choke is operated. When the choke is off the bars should have their flat sides on top so that they are flush with the intake bore....


Here's 2 pictures. First one is choke off and second is on



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Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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Paula
January 5, 2017, 3:46pm Report to Moderator

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Just tried again and it ran very badly for 30 seconds and died again.
I'll have to stop for today and try again tomorrow


Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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