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Paula
January 3, 2017, 11:45pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from JohnD
Paula,
You sound willing and able to do some maintenance for yourself.
A workshop manual will make doing it, and explaining from you to us and vice versa, easier.
"Something popped out" and lots of play, could be the sliding impact clamp in the steering column.  It was a very early bit of safety in design, to stop the steering column spearing you in a crash.
The solid lower column slides in the the hollow upper part of the column, under the dashboard.
See this diagram from Canley Classics, who you may get to know well:  http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-vitesse-steering  Parts 7-10

Turn the steering wheel, while watching the column in the engine bay.    If the play is between the two parts, it's the impact joint that needs to be reset.

John


Those parts with the R type clip.
Are they in the engine side of the bulk head?


Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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mikeyb
January 4, 2017, 8:16am Report to Moderator

Maldon, Essex :-)
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There have been a few posts on here (and on some other forums) that would imply that an element of caution may be prudent if thinking about dealing with Quiller - do your homework!

You will find plenty of recommendations from satisfied customers of other Triumph Specialists on here.  I for one would suggest Moordale Motors, advert at top of page - Dale is a top man and very active within the Club!


http://triumphandadversity.blogspot.com
http://mikeyb.weebly.com/

CT Drivers Challenge Champ '08 '09
CT Drivers Champ '12

Serial Triumph Offender, max out at 25 years ago!
Current Triumph count 17 16 15 14 13 14 12 13 12 13 14 15

On the road:
67 Mk3 Spit - been too many places to list!
72 Stag - Nachrict Nov '07 & '09, Mar '10, 10CR '09, 11,��LCC '10
76 Sprint - RBRR 2010 finisher, many Road Rallies, Nachrict Mar '11, HCR'11, Little Devils '11
64 Herald Rally Car - 2 autotest, 8 Rally Sprints, 3 Road Rallies, HCR '09, 4 Autosolo, Cadwell Track Day
67 GT6 Mk1

Broken: 72 Mk2 PI with TR6 engine - Nachrict Feb & Nov '06, Nachrict Feb '07, HCR '08, RBRR '08, LCC '07, '08, '09

NY Res�2013

1) Sell a few��moderns
2) Mend my Triumphs
3) Drive them lots
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JohnD
January 4, 2017, 8:24am Report to Moderator


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Paula,
Sorry, the diagram does need interpreting!

The 'R-clip' is a wire (45) to hold the steering rack gaiter (43) onto the rack body.  On the car about three feet from the clamp, but the diagram doesn't make that clear!
The impact clamp is on the driver side of the bulkhead.

This page from Canley's is of the late Spitfire steering column, but that used the same impact clamp, and the diagram is clearer.    
The clamp itself is in the  bottom left hand corner, 122669,  a U-shaped part sits around the tubular upper column, with a flat cross-piece (125782)bolted to it.
The cross piece sits in a slot in the tube.
The lower column rod slides into the tube, and has a flat section.   A 'grub-screw' (125781), a bolt that is driven in with an Allen key (hexagonal tool), onto the flat to do the clamping, and is locked by a lock nut (JN2110).

If the screw has become loose then there will be excess play in the steering, as the upper tube turns until the screw hits the flat.

To adjust, undo the lock nut, tighten the screw, check that the play is removed and tighten the lock nut.   Easy!  Except you do it upside down, head under the dashboard with a torch in your teeth!   It's simple, but very awkward to do!

So do the test I suggested before you try to find the clamp.  There are other possibilities, but best take remote diagnosis step-by-step!
If you can contact your local group and ask their help, someone on the spot could run through them rather quickly.
Regret that I'm 200+ miles away.

John
PS I missed your first reply at the bottom of page 1!   Forgive me - you certainly are "able to do some maintenance yourself"!   My apologies!  J.


Serial Vitesse racer.

Old Blue.  1995-2001
Silverback. 2001-2007
SofS. 2007 - to date.

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Bitumen Boy
January 4, 2017, 10:27am Report to Moderator
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Plenty of good advice here, but another couple of pointers wouldn't go amiss.

1. The grubscrew on the steering column impact clamp is an imperial rather than metric size - 3/16 AF, iirc. It's about the only one on the whole car barring some on the diff which are the same size anyway, so if you can find anyone selling a single 3/16 AF Allen key (aka hex key) rather than a full set, that's the way to go.

2. When it comes to buying a workshop manual, the older editions of Haynes etc. explain things much better than the more recent ones which have been somewhat "dumbed down". Don't turn your nose up at a battered, oily-finger-marked example on fleabay as it'll probably serve you better than a clean new one.

Have fun!
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Dannyb
January 4, 2017, 11:01am Report to Moderator

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[quote=MikeyB]There have been a few posts on here (and on some other forums) that would imply that an element of caution may be prudent if thinking about dealing with Quiller - do your homework!

Quiller have moved down to the south coast Lewes I believe.


Danny Baker
Langdon Hills, Essex.
RBRR Finisher 2012  2014  2016
My first car in 1970 was a 1965 Spitfire4 with 8 port head stage 2 conversion
Now drive 1980 Spitfire 1500
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Jonny-Jimbo
January 4, 2017, 11:49am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Bitumen Boy
1. The grubscrew on the steering column impact clamp is an imperial rather than metric size - 3/16 AF, iirc. It's about the only one on the whole car barring some on the diff which are the same size anyway, so if you can find anyone selling a single 3/16 AF Allen key (aka hex key) rather than a full set, that's the way to go.


Paula, if it is the impact clamp do NOT touch the grub screw and locking nut - this is what provides the pre-load on the column IIRC, adjusting this should be avoided unless you know the settings! The clamp often comes loose because when people fit it they do not seat it correctly on the flat sections of both the inner and outer columns. Indeed, a few years ago someone took a reasonably nicely restored Vitesse to KD Triumph where I was working at the time, complaining the steering occasionally felt vague (He'd restored the car himself). I dived straight into the footwell and sure enough the clamp was tightened up 'on the piss'. I removed it with the two 1/4"UNF bolts (7/16" head) and reseated the clamp on the flats correctly. No more vague steering.





62 Vitesse 1600 - Slammed & modified
67 2000 - Fitted with 2.5 o/d - 2012 RBRR, 2015 Essex Rally, 2016 HCR, 2016 RBRR
67 2000 Estate - Dormant
70 Herald 13/60 - First car, many bits
77 CZ 125 Sport - 70 miles on the clock
77 Kawasaki KM90 - Shop hack
81 Yamaha DT125 - Many bits
88 Ginetta G4/4 - Dead
88 BMW E30 320i - For Sale
89 Citroen AX GT - Rally car!
90 BMW E30 318iS - Building to FIA spec
90 Mazda Eunos 1.6 - 'Popeye'
93 BMW 530i - Donor
95 BMW E34 540i - 4L V8
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Paula
January 4, 2017, 1:30pm Report to Moderator

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Posts: 438
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Quoted from JohnD
Paula,
Sorry, the diagram does need interpreting!

The 'R-clip' is a wire (45) to hold the steering rack gaiter (43) onto the rack body.  On the car about three feet from the clamp, but the diagram doesn't make that clear!
The impact clamp is on the driver side of the bulkhead.

This page from Canley's is of the late Spitfire steering column, but that used the same impact clamp, and the diagram is clearer.    
The clamp itself is in the  bottom left hand corner, 122669,  a U-shaped part sits around the tubular upper column, with a flat cross-piece (125782)bolted to it.
The cross piece sits in a slot in the tube.
The lower column rod slides into the tube, and has a flat section.   A 'grub-screw' (125781), a bolt that is driven in with an Allen key (hexagonal tool), onto the flat to do the clamping, and is locked by a lock nut (JN2110).

If the screw has become loose then there will be excess play in the steering, as the upper tube turns until the screw hits the flat.

To adjust, undo the lock nut, tighten the screw, check that the play is removed and tighten the lock nut.   Easy!  Except you do it upside down, head under the dashboard with a torch in your teeth!   It's simple, but very awkward to do!

So do the test I suggested before you try to find the clamp.  There are other possibilities, but best take remote diagnosis step-by-step!
If you can contact your local group and ask their help, someone on the spot could run through them rather quickly.
Regret that I'm 200+ miles away.

John
PS I missed your first reply at the bottom of page 1!   Forgive me - you certainly are "able to do some maintenance yourself"!   My apologies!  J.


That's great!
It's definitely that clamp. I'm going out there now to have a go.
I think i understand that it's a clamp that clamps around the end of a hollow shaft with a grub screw on it that is tightened down onto a flat part of an inner shaft.
I'll leave the grub screw as it is and try and reset the clamp into the correct position.
I've also ordered all new ignition bits including points condensor cap and rotor arm. That'll be tomorrow's fun!
What's the gap for the points? 0.015?
Cheers!


Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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Paula
January 4, 2017, 2:13pm Report to Moderator

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I tightened the 2 clamp bolts and everything is much better! I was tempted to tighten the grub screw, but i'll leave it for now. The clamp is very close to a part of the body and knocks against it occasionally though.
I'll see what it's like on the road hopefully tomorrow.
I was hoping for some driving around before i ended up this involved.
The joys of classic motoring i suppose!
Cheers for the amazing help, i'm sure you'll be hearing from me again and i'll try and make the next local meeting
Paula


Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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mikeyb
January 4, 2017, 2:27pm Report to Moderator

Maldon, Essex :-)
Club Member
Club member
Posts: 5,165
Posts Per Day: 1.27
points 14-16 thou, plugs 25 thou


http://triumphandadversity.blogspot.com
http://mikeyb.weebly.com/

CT Drivers Challenge Champ '08 '09
CT Drivers Champ '12

Serial Triumph Offender, max out at 25 years ago!
Current Triumph count 17 16 15 14 13 14 12 13 12 13 14 15

On the road:
67 Mk3 Spit - been too many places to list!
72 Stag - Nachrict Nov '07 & '09, Mar '10, 10CR '09, 11,��LCC '10
76 Sprint - RBRR 2010 finisher, many Road Rallies, Nachrict Mar '11, HCR'11, Little Devils '11
64 Herald Rally Car - 2 autotest, 8 Rally Sprints, 3 Road Rallies, HCR '09, 4 Autosolo, Cadwell Track Day
67 GT6 Mk1

Broken: 72 Mk2 PI with TR6 engine - Nachrict Feb & Nov '06, Nachrict Feb '07, HCR '08, RBRR '08, LCC '07, '08, '09

NY Res�2013

1) Sell a few��moderns
2) Mend my Triumphs
3) Drive them lots
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Steve P
January 4, 2017, 4:23pm Report to Moderator
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I work in the West End every day so if your stuck i would be happy to jump on the tube and take a look sometime,ive owned my Vitesse since 1985.
Steve


No. of Triumphs owned..2
No. of Triumphs working..2
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Paula
January 4, 2017, 5:16pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Steve P
I work in the West End every day so if your stuck i would be happy to jump on the tube and take a look sometime,ive owned my Vitesse since 1985.
Steve


Amazing.
Thanks


Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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Paula
January 4, 2017, 5:16pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from mikeyb
points 14-16 thou, plugs 25 thou


Perfect. Ta!


Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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Paula
January 4, 2017, 5:20pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo


Paula, if it is the impact clamp do NOT touch the grub screw and locking nut - this is what provides the pre-load on the column IIRC, adjusting this should be avoided unless you know the settings! The clamp often comes loose because when people fit it they do not seat it correctly on the flat sections of both the inner and outer columns. Indeed, a few years ago someone took a reasonably nicely restored Vitesse to KD Triumph where I was working at the time, complaining the steering occasionally felt vague (He'd restored the car himself). I dived straight into the footwell and sure enough the clamp was tightened up 'on the piss'. I removed it with the two 1/4"UNF bolts (7/16" head) and reseated the clamp on the flats correctly. No more vague steering.





Thanks!
I think i got it square.
I actually think it was all upside down! as the steering wheel is now the wrong way up???



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Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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JohnD
January 4, 2017, 5:34pm Report to Moderator


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Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo


Paula, if it is the impact clamp do NOT touch the grub screw and locking nut - this is what provides the pre-load on the column IIRC, adjusting this should be avoided unless you know the settings! The clamp often comes loose because when people fit it they do not seat it correctly on the flat sections of both the inner and outer columns. Indeed, a few years ago someone took a reasonably nicely restored Vitesse to KD Triumph where I was working at the time, complaining the steering occasionally felt vague (He'd restored the car himself). I dived straight into the footwell and sure enough the clamp was tightened up 'on the piss'. I removed it with the two 1/4"UNF bolts (7/16" head) and reseated the clamp on the flats correctly. No more vague steering.





JJ,
what's special about the impact clamp's grub screw, that it should NOT be touched?

The OE Workshop Manual describes the procedure as follows:
Retighten the bolts on the impact clamp.
Using a socket key [aka Allen key JD] tighten the screw ... by hand as much as possible without bending the the wrench [aka key]
Tighten the lock nut.

Done in that order - Simples!!

And the wheel - ditto!  
Just undo that enormous nut, but leave it on the thread.
While pulling the wheel upwards, HIT the top of the column, with a soft hammer, or a hard one with a pieceof wood in the way.
With luck, the wheel will spring off its splines, you can turn it around and replace it.

John


Serial Vitesse racer.

Old Blue.  1995-2001
Silverback. 2001-2007
SofS. 2007 - to date.

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Sheepy
January 4, 2017, 5:49pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Bitumen Boy
, oily-finger-marked example on fleabay as it'll probably serve you better than a clean new one.

Have fun!


Couldn't agree more, the older ones are the best.

If you can do a head gasket then you are a lot further advanced than most amateurs!
Find a local club and get chatting to some of the members with the same car (helps if they know that model well) or others that are good with spanners (as most triumph owners should be 😉) then ask for advice, or even ask if they would be willing to teach you (payment of tea and biscuits, or beer
It's the best way to learn, then you will have the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

I would offer but I'm a little far away! 😀

Give the car a good check over now noting anything that needs replacing or is likely to need replacing soon, get along to the spares day in Feb if you have the time (19th) and pick up some bits, plus then you get to meet some orrible lot like us! But it's a fun day out.

Cheers
Shaun


Cheers
Shaun

i'm worried that when I die my wife will sell all my car parts for what I told her they were worth!  

67 MK3 spit
42 Chevy cargo truck
Some bikes (not push bikes)
Land Rover series 3 (doing it up to sell)
Belgium (I'm Binglish)
RBRR 2014 'team broom' in the renown!
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