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Triumph Torque    Cars    Herald/Vitesse  ›  Oil flinger/ Stoneguard gap on driveshafts
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Oil flinger/ Stoneguard gap on driveshafts Print
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mazfg
November 16, 2016, 1:08pm Report to Moderator


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Just cleaning up my driveshafts and decided to pump through grease as the stuff in there looks pretty black. I've noticed the oil flinger/ stoneguard has a gap around it of 3mm and I can see the metal oil seal. What should this gap be?

Only wondering as I think it moved slightly away when grease pumping. I tapped it back a little but it caused the movement of the hub to become stiffer, so backed off and its moves smoothly again.  I'm guessing this pushes against the oil seal  now which in turn pushes against the bearing..causing a bit of stiffness. I can't see me closing the gap without the hub becoming stiffer.

Cheers



Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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glang
November 16, 2016, 1:56pm Report to Moderator

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Yes that gap does look a bit large. I wonder if the grease you have pumped in has pushed out the oil seal so that its in contact with the flinger when you tap that back into place. Looking at the drawing the seal should just protrude from the housing when it has been fully knocked home against an internal shoulder.
If you can get the flinger back a bit you should be able to check the seal and with a flat edge tap it back in if necessary. The only risk is that with the movement the flinger might loosen on the shaft.....
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mazfg
November 16, 2016, 2:10pm Report to Moderator


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The other drive shaft has a similar gap too. the difference I've found is that this oil seal is now moving around the housing as opposed to the other which is fixed to it....  Rather loathed to start messing.


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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mazfg
November 16, 2016, 3:38pm Report to Moderator


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So, couldn't leave it alone. What seems to have happened (as you saud)is the oil seal has moved out and is snagging on the flinger.  Will try n tap it away and then tap the seal  back in.
When i tap the seal in, should the seal be flush with the hub casing. ..ie. how far should it go in?


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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glang
November 16, 2016, 4:42pm Report to Moderator

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It looks like the seal should stick out a couple of mm but anyway as you tap it in it'll come to a stop against the internal shoulder....
Out of interest, was there much resistance as you originally pumped the grease in?
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mazfg
November 16, 2016, 5:30pm Report to Moderator


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JUst a little resistance then the oil seal moved slightly followed by very black old grease.  I pumped til the grease looked good.
Looking at the other. .it also has a gap and I guess over time the seal has been pushed out through grease pressure?


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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glang
November 16, 2016, 5:54pm Report to Moderator

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Reminds me that Id better do mine sometime soon! The seal certainly shouldnt touch the flinger which itself should be a mm or so clear of the housing....
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Rosbif
November 16, 2016, 6:47pm Report to Moderator


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My dad took me to see the film when I was young. I think it was the first James Bond film I saw.
Ok I'll get my coat! 😋


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
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Casper
November 16, 2016, 7:33pm Report to Moderator


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Chances are that the oil seals have been put in the wrong way round.  They are supposed to keep water from getting in and to let excess grease OUT.

Have you checked inside the brake drums ?

C.


Herald Anorak
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mazfg
November 16, 2016, 7:47pm Report to Moderator


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No grease on the drums.

Looking at a picture of an inner seal. It looks like it has 2 leather seals on each side of its casing. Can't see how it matters which way round it goes?


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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glang
November 16, 2016, 8:27pm Report to Moderator

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well my manual does talk about putting the seal in with the 'lips trailing' and if you look at the Rimmers picture here:
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005909
it does look directional......
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mazfg
November 16, 2016, 8:45pm Report to Moderator


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Quoted from glang
well my manual does talk about putting the seal in with the 'lips trailing' and if you look at the Rimmers picture here:
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005909
it does look directional......

You're right..it does say that. I'll have a look tomorow and report back.


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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glang
November 16, 2016, 9:07pm Report to Moderator

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The other thing is does it really matter? Would you dismantle the rear hubs and everything anyway? What about just pushing the seal in as far as possible, then slide the flinger along without making contact and getting on with enjoying driving it.....
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mazfg
November 16, 2016, 9:11pm Report to Moderator


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Quoted from glang
The other thing is does it really matter? Would you dismantle the rear hubs and everything anyway? What about just pushing the seal in as far as possible, then slide the flinger along without making contact and getting on with enjoying driving it.....

  of course. ..was never going to completely dismantle.   Just going to tap flinger away from hubeing. .enough to then tap the seal back in and then tap the flinger back along. The bearings are all good anyway.  Only brought to light due to the seal moving after pushing lots of grea see through.


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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Bitumen Boy
November 17, 2016, 10:58am Report to Moderator
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After the last bearing change I found I'd buggered this part up to the point it was rattling loose on the shaft. I stuck it in place with a dollop of bitumen/fibre roofing sealant and let it cure for a few days before driving. No further problems, though I'll have to look at replacing the next time it's all apart.
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