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Triumph Torque    Cars    Herald/Vitesse  ›  Taking the Diff out without removing drive shafts
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Taking the Diff out without removing drive shafts Print
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ferny
October 19, 2016, 3:44pm Report to Moderator

Mr Hoppy!
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You can get the diff out with only the spring studs on the diff and halfshaft and propshaft bolts out. Push against the bottom of tge wheel and the shaft flange will move away from the diff.

Getting it back in isn't easy though, as you're pushing up against the spring as the diff goes it. It can be done.


Acclaim - fully working and on the road
13/60 Herald - mx5 powered and other such fun things, legal enough...
Mk1 2000 - it's still alive, just sleeping
Expert 815d - the slug

If in doubt, do up until you hear the crack and then go another 1/4 turn to ensure tightness.
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heraldcoupe
October 19, 2016, 9:18pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Nick Jones
They are slightly thicker in the flange section that the OE ones to compensate for the absence of water shields.


Sounds like they've patterned them on the early bushes, before the water shields were introduced in the mid 1960s.

Cheers,
Bill.


Enthusiast and collector of early Heralds.

"The trouble with quotes over the Internet is that you never know if they are genuine." -- Abraham Lincoln
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mazfg
October 20, 2016, 9:10am Report to Moderator


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It mentions removing exhaust too...is this definitely necessary


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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cliftyhanger
October 20, 2016, 9:13am Report to Moderator

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I can't see how you can drop the diff without taking the exhaust off. It runs right under the diff....


Clive Senior

Location-Brighton, East Sussex
Foxy is here, 1500od tax exempt Toledo. Now has the decent engine back in Slant 4 engine bolted in, sprint box and axle.Now has fresh MoT. Needs paint though.
Spitfire Zetec project is started work progressing slooooowly on the road!
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mazfg
October 20, 2016, 9:19am Report to Moderator


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Quoted from cliftyhanger
I can't see how you can drop the diff without taking the exhaust off. It runs right under the diff....


Mine not right under the diff..it's to the side of it but just under


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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cliftyhanger
October 20, 2016, 9:26am Report to Moderator

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It should have a hanger off the diff. As you need to drop the nose of the diff down several inches on a tilt, I can't see how you will get the diff out with the exhaust there.


Clive Senior

Location-Brighton, East Sussex
Foxy is here, 1500od tax exempt Toledo. Now has the decent engine back in Slant 4 engine bolted in, sprint box and axle.Now has fresh MoT. Needs paint though.
Spitfire Zetec project is started work progressing slooooowly on the road!
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glang
October 20, 2016, 9:38am Report to Moderator

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My stainless (thin wall?) exhaust allows quite a bit of movement - if I undo the rear hanger (its only fixing) it can be moved down and quite well out of the way but of course does need supporting. This obviously isnt ideal but I can understand why you dont want to remove the pipe completely and I think I would probably do the same...
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mazfg
November 1, 2016, 4:05pm Report to Moderator


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So, the Diff's out and the drive shaft and the spring.  ( I removed the exhaust in the end )



Now I think I might as well do the bearings on the half shafts and the leaf spring is looking a bit cruddy too.
Any advice on cleaning that up..not sure I want to actually take it all apart..just a wire brush up??? Should I give it a coat of dinitrol too?

I've now also removed the UJ's...that was a pig...no tapping them out..had to use the vice to push them out...solidly fixed in there!! The N/S was definitely worn and probably the cause of the slight noise I could hear.

The N/S drum also binds..wondering if this is a little on the oval in shape...?  


Current: Triumph Vitesse 6 convertible with O/D 1964

21 Years ago...and my first car! : Triumph Herald 1200 Saloon/ Tristan conversion 1966
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glang
November 1, 2016, 4:29pm Report to Moderator

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Dont know about Dinitrol its really lubrication you want so I think working a thick grease into the leaves as much as possible and coating the whole thing is the best you can do with it.
If the drum binds and then releases as you spin it then its definitely oval which is not unusual over time and heat with cast iron. Mine were the same so I took em to a local engineering shop who skimmed the braking surfaces on a lathe for 25quid the pair. The improvement was 100% but they did say it was a difficult job to do perfectly without the specialised equipment.
Looks like your jobs are multiplying but thats always the way  
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