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Herald rear hubs Print
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tomtrumpet
September 5, 2015, 11:28am Report to Moderator

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Public thanks to rally spit!

I went to his house yesterday and we battled fo well over an hour to free the hubs. One came off in seconds but the other was a real pig.

The method that got it in the end was to heat the hub with the puller off as it acts as a big heat sink! And then use a air driven wrench rattle it and then a punch placed through the hand brake hole in the back plate with a couple of whacks off it came.

Again many thanks rally.

Will report back on shaft condition later today!
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tomtrumpet
September 5, 2015, 12:09pm Report to Moderator

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Oh I forgot to ask in my last post if anyone had any advice of how to get the trunnions off the shaft, my triumph factory is manual is missing that page!

My circa 1965 Haynes manual suggests some how pushing the trunnions further onto the shaft so a puller can be placed on the bearing? Don't quite understand that?

My thought its to put a puller on the trunnions and pull it off bearings and all?

Thanks Tom.
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Pete Lewis
September 5, 2015, 4:33pm Report to Moderator

Tssc Herts and Beds A.O.
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if always just put the shaft in a vice to support the trunion and used a soft headed mallet to knock the shaft out of the bearing housing

on refit get it close to its original position and refitting the hub and nut will pull the shaft through to its running position,
check the drum and back plate are in there respective positions as there is no register to position the bearing  ,, wonderful design

Pete


1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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tomtrumpet
September 5, 2015, 6:30pm Report to Moderator

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Ok I'll give knocking it out a go.

Yes it has occurred to me there is no positive location point for the trunnions, my factory manual gives a dimension measured from the end of the shaft to the bearing face of 2.625" which must be wrong as that would not allow the hub to even fit!

Looking again at the manual cross sectional drawing the front face of the hub is in contact with the inner bearing race so I'm thinking lightly locate the, knock the trunnions up to the face of the hub and then torque up the nut?

All in all odd design as the only thing that keeps the run ion in place on the shaft is friction from the ball race!!! Must work though.

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tomtrumpet
September 5, 2015, 8:48pm Report to Moderator

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Trunnions are off! I'm going to attempt to attach some pics of one of the half shaft as it has some marks where the needle bearing runs, i Think it's servicable but would just like to run past you fellas.

the play in one of the trunnions appears to be slight bearing wear but oddly in the other the ball bearing is loose in the trunnion! I'm wondering if someone has fitted the wrong bear or the trunnion has somehow worn?

very strange!



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Richard B
September 6, 2015, 7:49am Report to Moderator

Richard Brake
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I would say not servicable. The roller bearing runs directly on the shaft and that looks like the hardening has gone.


Surrey AO and Triumph Hoover, Location: Guildford - Surrey,
Spitfire 2.5PI - 1967 having surgery, PI Saloon - 1969 RBRR x 3, PI Estate - 1969 (to restore), Stag - 1971 RBRR x 2,
PI Saloon MkII - 1971(stalled project), Sold some cars!  

Daughters own: Herald 1500 1961, Herald 1500 Coupe 1962, Dolomite 1300 1976, Herald 13/60 Estate 1970
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tomtrumpet
September 6, 2015, 8:03am Report to Moderator

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Certainly on the edge.

Like a fool I put a new UJ on before checking. If I get a new shaft I wonder if I could carefully remove the UJ and put it on the new shaft without damaging it?
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thescrapman
September 6, 2015, 8:05am Report to Moderator

Colin Wake
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That does not look reusable.

For refitting I am sure I read (from an expert) that you just torque up the hub and the trunnion housing ends up in the right place.

It makes sense if you think about it.


Schadenfreude expert and collector of assorted rusty Triumphs on the Essex/Suffolk Border.

2010, 2011, 2013, 2015 and 2016 CT Navigators Championship winner.

10CR 2005, 2007, 2009, 2011 2013 - RBRR 1990, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016 - Nachtrit 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2012 - Chinese rally 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 - HCR 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013 (3rd place), 2014. 2015, 2017

On the road.
1968 Spitfire Mk3 : 1973 TR6 : 1967 Herald 1200 Estate 1970 : 1968 Mk1 2.5PI 1968
Off the road
1967 Moss Monaco (Mk1 GT6 based) : 1970 Spitfire Mk4 : 1970 Mk2 2000 auto  : 1964 Mk1 2000  : Mk2 2.5PI
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tomtrumpet
September 6, 2015, 8:36am Report to Moderator

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looks like it may be a new shaft then

The trunnion will only end up in the right position if it is fitted close enough to the end to enable the hub to push it to the correct position, if it does not contact the hub it cannot be pulled up by the nut and will require knocking up to the hub.......the question is which way is best?


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thescrapman
September 6, 2015, 9:00am Report to Moderator

Colin Wake
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That was. What I intended to say. Fit too close to end and let hub push it to correct position.


Schadenfreude expert and collector of assorted rusty Triumphs on the Essex/Suffolk Border.

2010, 2011, 2013, 2015 and 2016 CT Navigators Championship winner.

10CR 2005, 2007, 2009, 2011 2013 - RBRR 1990, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016 - Nachtrit 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2012 - Chinese rally 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 - HCR 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013 (3rd place), 2014. 2015, 2017

On the road.
1968 Spitfire Mk3 : 1973 TR6 : 1967 Herald 1200 Estate 1970 : 1968 Mk1 2.5PI 1968
Off the road
1967 Moss Monaco (Mk1 GT6 based) : 1970 Spitfire Mk4 : 1970 Mk2 2000 auto  : 1964 Mk1 2000  : Mk2 2.5PI
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MarkB
September 10, 2015, 5:17pm Report to Moderator


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Hi all

I pulled my GT6 Rotoflex rear hubs today to upgrade  to M12 wheel studs. I made up this puller from a Spit front hub years ago when the proper Churchill tool was not readily available. Probably not as good as the proper tool, but hasn't failed yet on a Spitfire GT6 and Vitesse.

Mark



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Paul Garvey
September 15, 2015, 11:37pm Report to Moderator

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Jigsaw do uprated shafts - don't know how much thicker, price or if they still use needle rollers direct onto the shaft.

http://www.jigsawracingservices.co.uk/suspension.htm

Another option from the States - with nice chunky sleeved bearings - but pricey:
http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Custom_Parts.php

Paul


New Zealand
Current:
- Mk2 Spitfire
Prior:
- Mk1 Vitesse Convertable, Mk2 GT6, 1600 Vitesse
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PeteH
July 20, 2017, 6:39pm Report to Moderator

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HI

Can I "Bump" this thread, I am into a full refurb of a `71 Herald 13/60. And have come across the same issue, the Hub is resisting ALL attempts at removal including a 10t press and heat!. The end result is that I can see distortion in the flange. I need the hub off to refurb the damaged parts (Backplate and grease retainer).



Has anyone local to HULL. got access to the type of puller required. OR anyone got a Photo(s) of the Puller?. I have access to welding and machining kit and may be able to fabricate something that will work. IF I know what I am looking at?

Regards

Pete
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glang
July 20, 2017, 6:47pm Report to Moderator

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Jonny-Jimbo
July 20, 2017, 7:27pm Report to Moderator

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If you're stuck, I have spare shafts knocking about... but I'm in Coventry, not Hull...


62 Vitesse 1600 - Slammed & modified
67 2000 - Fitted with 2.5 o/d - 2012 RBRR, 2015 Essex Rally, 2016 HCR, 2016 RBRR
67 2000 Estate - Dormant
70 Herald 13/60 - First car, many bits
77 CZ 125 Sport - 70 miles on the clock
77 Kawasaki KM90 - Shop hack
81 Yamaha DT125 - Many bits
88 Ginetta G4/4 - Dead
88 BMW E30 320i - For Sale
89 Citroen AX GT - Rally car!
90 BMW E30 318iS - Building to FIA spec
90 Mazda Eunos 1.6 - 'Popeye'
93 BMW 530i - Donor
95 BMW E34 540i - 4L V8
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