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JimmyH
April 22, 2012, 10:05am Report to Moderator

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Hi Guys,
           I have read as much as I could find on how to repair tub spread, but I don't seem to be able to find if it is possible to repair it on a saloon without taking the roof off.  Is it possible or even advisable to sort the tub with the roof on ?

Regards,
    Jim


Vitesse Mk2
East Lothian, Scotland
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dinger
April 22, 2012, 10:53am Report to Moderator
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highly preferable I would think...
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beefertoo
April 22, 2012, 8:26pm Report to Moderator


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first check if the metal's ok at the bottom of the 'b' post, if it is then what i did was to use a chain type block and tackle diagonal between the seatbelt mounts.

while mine is an estate so needs less 'pulling' than a saloon i cant see the roof being on making much difference. i would loosen at least the rear bolts though

craig


craig��in sunny blackpool

1969 1360 estate....now has a mot and legal for the road, just the interior to finish

1972 2500 PI.......sold,too many projects

1962 rover 100.....just because I could

1987 sierra auto....broke it then sold it

1998 Peugeot 106d..... cheaper than chips to run!
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Mark Hammond
April 22, 2012, 8:35pm Report to Moderator

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"Wrap" the rear wings in a ratchet strap, to do this, remove the rear quarter windows, loosen all rear roof bolts and remove the centre B posts adjacent to the rear windows.  Tighten up the straps, wear earplugs so that you won't be disturbed by the creaking and observe.  The job is best done with the roof off.  Pete Lewis is the best authority on this job.  Pete, Pete?  Where are you?

Mark


Herald 1200 Saloon, owned (in the family) from new, Royal Blue/Black trim
[color=purple]MX-5 Z-Sport (Tweaked to 200bhp)2007,
Suzuki Vitara S Auto, Cosmic Black, 2017.
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Rustee
April 22, 2012, 9:35pm Report to Moderator

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I've got a bit of tub spread as i'm 50 this year and need to go on a diet. Your rectification methods sound far too painful!  
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jeepstertim
April 23, 2012, 7:45am Report to Moderator


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Craig

I'm considering doing this on my estate.  Can it be done without damaging paint etc on a road worthy car?

Tim


2.5Pi Estate
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Pete Lewis
April 23, 2012, 1:37pm Report to Moderator

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Dont take me as the expert on this ,, its just what we did to solve the problem.

some things to dream about

you have to pull the top of the B post wing in twice as far as the spread as it springs back ,,much creaking and cracking will occur

on a saloon you can use the lugs that hold the B post extension in place ,  you can easily remove these and leave the roof on.

in the photo you can see our hotch pot arrangement of bits and bobs with some 12mm rod studding from BQ

this saves having the rachet straps indenting the main wing panel..there is a lot of load required to pull the tub in.

take 3 asprin before you start . and have strong tea at the ready

from memory the dimension to aim for is approx 46.5" across the seal flanges and we had to pull ours in 1.5" to gain a 0.625" spread.    the rear deck panel make buckle and cracked paint is possible.

you cant to this on a convertible as there are no lugs on top of the wing/Bpost

it would make sense to remove the body mounting bolts and repack the finished job with one rubber and as many metal whashers and spacers to re align the door shuts..  we re furbed to a  flat chassis to the drawing tolerances and then fitted a despread tub with 48yrs wonkiness ....some places have over 1" of packer.     Hmmmm!

I would like to say do it with the side glass left in ,but fear this may be over power the glass,    your choice !!

having said that stringing glass back  in with acute corners is not the easiest glass and rubber to string in place .


I use a old leather glove filled with shot or sharp sand makes a good soft weighted glass  whacker ,  use loads of soft soap and make sure the corner is as tight in as possible.












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1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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JimmyH
April 23, 2012, 4:28pm Report to Moderator

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Many thanks guys, lots to think about. I will let you know how i get on.

Regards,

         Jim.


Vitesse Mk2
East Lothian, Scotland
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beefertoo
April 23, 2012, 7:42pm Report to Moderator


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Quoted from jeepstertim
Craig

I'm considering doing this on my estate.  Can it be done without damaging paint etc on a road worthy car?

Tim


i honestly couldnt tell you but i dont think my paint suffered,but then again my paint was very scruffy anyway. i didnt notice anything when i later rubbed down for a respray.

craig


craig��in sunny blackpool

1969 1360 estate....now has a mot and legal for the road, just the interior to finish

1972 2500 PI.......sold,too many projects

1962 rover 100.....just because I could

1987 sierra auto....broke it then sold it

1998 Peugeot 106d..... cheaper than chips to run!
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Jonny-Jimbo
April 24, 2012, 1:52am Report to Moderator


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Pete and co, in terms of the rear windows, the easiest way to do this by far is to remove the B pillars, then they can just slide in and out.... kay, they come out easier and withsome fettling can slide over the seal lips.

I was thinking of using some CDS tube with approximately M12 / M14 threaded plugs welded in, with a LH and RH rose joint at either end, and a large piece of steel hex welded in the centre of the CDS, that way a huage spanner could see the tub spread easily(?) pulled in when mounted to the top of the body tub. It will also allow good finite adjustment with the extra leverage. Slow and steady approach would be required to avoid just pulling the whole tub in on itself!


1962 Vitesse 1600, rally-esque thing
1966 Herald 1200, crap-heap
1967 2000 / 2.5, current daily driver and Round Britain contender
1970 Herald 13/60, very little left now
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate, virtually nothing
1983 Acclaim L, Jewish Racing Beige and Brown. Why do I do it?

1988 BMW 320i, with interesting history! (Soon to be sold... probably)
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Pom Down Under
April 24, 2012, 2:30am Report to Moderator


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Alternatively use a decent piece of rope doubled between the posts (attached of course!).

When twisted together with a length of pipe/or wood/or even a long screw driver the posts will gradually be pulled together. Just don't let go of the twisting device or it will try to break your wrists!! NB Long piece of pipe can make the twisting easier, although they can be a little awkward to use, and have the advantage of being able to be jammed against the floor to leave the pressure applied for an extended period.

Cheap and easy (albeit slow) winch, but perfect for your sort of situation.      
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Pete Lewis
April 24, 2012, 10:00am Report to Moderator

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I dreamt of attaching to the door striker plate cage nuts saves stripping any body parts ,  food for thought !!
   but have and hopefully will never need to do this again

   what ever method you devise, it takes a lot of energy to get the over pull to set the wing tops back to normal. so does need to be 'safe'

our lumps of wood were just 'available' on the day rather than make up a special drawbar..to  make dedicated one,  thats a good idea to loan out to area cars  with door bottoms sticking out beyond the B shut .


if the spread is off set some have devised a pull from the base of the B post/seat belt anchor area to pull just one side  rather than  just try to pull the two together

one day we will get this right

Pete


1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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ahebron
April 24, 2012, 10:02am Report to Moderator


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I want to do this on my 6 saloon eventually. But I want to use my portapower purely because I have one so will be welding up a cradle to convert push power into pull power.

Adrian


Eastern shore of Te Whanganui-a-Tara

Vitesse 6 (owned since 1982, driven for 6 months a long time ago)
Vitesse Mk11 Conv (owned since 1992, never driven but the first Vitesse I looked at buying back in early 1982)
2000 BMW R1150 GS
2003 FFRR TD6 HSE
2014 VW Amarok Highline 4Motion
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Stodders
April 24, 2012, 4:17pm Report to Moderator

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I have just done this successfully on the convertible  that I am restoring. I had just one side that I could not get the door alignment correct.  Although the door gaps were pretty good, if you looked down one side from the back of the rear wing one side of the car was not as good as the other side.  After days of cursing and swearing trying to align everything I finally decided that I had to get brutal and move one of the 'B' posts in.  As one of the previous posts mentions there is not much to attach to on a convertible so I welded up a bracket that fitted neatly to the top of the B post.  This basically fitted into the door shut.  I simply bolted it on through the holes where the striker plate should be and added a few clamps.  Through a hole in this I fed a hefty piece of studding welded to a piece of dexion that was in turn bolted to opposite lower seat belt mount.   I simply wound a nut on to pull it into place. Don't be fooled, ff your body is good and strong it does take a massive load to adjust it.  I was using pretty tough studding and thought something was going to explode.  Still, managed to move it the required 3/8" which made a massive difference to the general body fit.
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Jonny-Jimbo
April 24, 2012, 5:23pm Report to Moderator


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Pete, what you say is true, sometimes the tub spreads differently on either side, although I guess this is probably rarer, and may have something to do with rot in the body tub on one side - but that is just a thought, no proof.

If I were to make up my threaded cross bar thing I would be happy to lend it out, once proven, but my Vitesse doesn't have middle age tub spread. My old Herald did, and had I known what I now know, I'd have fixed it.

Anyway, as a further development to my threaded pull bar, I suppose if they were made as two separate sections, with a supporting A-frame in the middle it would be possible to adjust each one individually. The picture I've uploaded is a very basic drawing that took about 3 seconds as I'm taking a break from my dissertation!!!



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1962 Vitesse 1600, rally-esque thing
1966 Herald 1200, crap-heap
1967 2000 / 2.5, current daily driver and Round Britain contender
1970 Herald 13/60, very little left now
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate, virtually nothing
1983 Acclaim L, Jewish Racing Beige and Brown. Why do I do it?

1988 BMW 320i, with interesting history! (Soon to be sold... probably)
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Pete Lewis
April 26, 2012, 9:01am Report to Moderator

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jonny , ,stodder's  says that he has been successfull at pulling a diagonal from the base,  if you made your drawbaw to do the same it would not need the central gantry , just a thought to keep it simple ,   or you will end up with the fourth bridge and never use it again  Ha


Pete


1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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Jonny-Jimbo
April 26, 2012, 12:32pm Report to Moderator


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This is true Pete, and the A-frame would probably only need one crossbar not a full garden trellice. However, I would personally prefer to pull the tub directly towards each other, as I can see that pulling diagonally could twist the tub too, but pulling directly in should bring it back to where it should be.

I have no proof of either way working as I have never pulled a tub, but just a thought.

On a side note, I'd have thought it to be quite unusual to find an early 1962 Vitesse 6 that has not yet suffered tub-spread? I may be lucky there. My guess would be because it has never had the tub, floorpan or roof off.


1962 Vitesse 1600, rally-esque thing
1966 Herald 1200, crap-heap
1967 2000 / 2.5, current daily driver and Round Britain contender
1970 Herald 13/60, very little left now
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate, virtually nothing
1983 Acclaim L, Jewish Racing Beige and Brown. Why do I do it?

1988 BMW 320i, with interesting history! (Soon to be sold... probably)
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bxbodger
April 27, 2012, 1:05pm Report to Moderator

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I did my convertible diagonally with no ill effects. I didn't use threaded rod or rope, I used ratcheting straps, the sort used for strapping heavy stuff to roof bars/trailers, between the lower seatbelt mount and a big lump of wood stuffed behind the upper support for the side-trim/B post. I actually used the straps two at a time- one for initial tightening and when that one got so tight that I couldn't ratchet it any more I started on number two. I pulled the wings in a bit at a time either side until the door bottoms were actually inset slightly rather than sticking out, released the strain and they sprang out slightly and lined up pretty well- and that sorted the spread. Mine had the remains of a towbar fitted which is probably the initial cause of the spread, too much noseweight when the car was used for towing. Amongst the paperwork I got with the car was a set of fitting instructions for the towbar and the brackets were still there on the ends of the rear extensions as were the holes in the spare wheel well.  


'68 Mk1 Vitesse convertible boneshaker, and a somewhat more economical '89 998cc A series powered Metro.
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G.in_Lux
April 27, 2012, 1:07pm Report to Moderator


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Quoted from bxbodger
I did my convertible diagonally with no ill effects.


I like to hear things like that


Gerard
Thread killer
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smithy
April 27, 2012, 4:23pm Report to Moderator


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Quoted from G.in_Lux


I like to hear things like that


You're perverted eh Gerard? Yep, me too.  


Do not touch the glass. Do not approach the glass. You pass him nothing but soft paper - no pencils or pens. No staples or paperclips in his paper. Use the sliding food carrier, no exceptions. If he attempts to pass you anything, do not accept it. Do you understand me?
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Stodders
April 29, 2012, 6:42pm Report to Moderator

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Further to the comments on whether it should be necessary to pull in one side and not the other!!  The problems with mine I think stemmed from accident damage. I have owned the car from 1979 and I have always thought something  was a bit odd with the wing / bootlid / door allignment on the nearside.  When I started to restore it i found about an inch of filler hiding a destroyed rear wing.  I have managed to get hold of a genuing complete rear wing and now that the chassis has been rebuilt with all new outriggers and was jigged prety carefully it alligns pretty well.  The only issue was that the lines down one side were not perfestly true. I didnt have the problem of the doors sticking out at the bottom as although I have replaced the door skins, i have not yet welded them in place so am able to twist them slightly so get them perfestly true..

All of the work alligning it has been done after the repair work has been done to the body mounts and floor so it is pretty strong.  In my opinion I would have thought that you should always pull each side in as required by using the opposite seat belt mount otherwise it would always be just the weakest point that moves and you coud bet on it not pulling each side in eaqually.  As far as the strength of the seatbelt mounts to take this strain.  I don't see this as a problem as if they start to give then they were probably not strong enough anyway.  I did have to use considerable force to do this but the seatbelt mounts were not a problem
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Jonny-Jimbo
April 29, 2012, 8:36pm Report to Moderator


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Stodders; WHen I questioned the diagonal method I was not questioning the strength of the seat-belt mount itself, more the issue of pulling something diagonally down, rather than straight in, where it really needs to go. I know old cars are sometimes stronger than they look, but I have visions of the whole thing buckling down a bit.

On a side note, if one were to build a 'performance' version of a Herald / Vitesse, and were using four / five point belts and a roll cage, would there be any benefit to adding a tie-bar (of correct length) between the two normal shoulder strap mounting points?

It may look cool, and offer somewhere to hang helmets from, ut would it actully do any structural good, assuming the roll-cage is tied into the chassis. not just the floor?


1962 Vitesse 1600, rally-esque thing
1966 Herald 1200, crap-heap
1967 2000 / 2.5, current daily driver and Round Britain contender
1970 Herald 13/60, very little left now
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate, virtually nothing
1983 Acclaim L, Jewish Racing Beige and Brown. Why do I do it?

1988 BMW 320i, with interesting history! (Soon to be sold... probably)
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dave mc
August 1, 2014, 8:23am Report to Moderator

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Sorry to resurrect this old favourite.

I'm hoping to trial fit my saloon body soon and want to rectify any tub spread now. There is mention in the threads above that the distance between the seal flanges is 46.5". Can anyone confirm that for definite please?

Mines currently at 47.5" so I need to pull it in an inch to get it right, assuming 46.5" is correct.

My tub has been standing free on its end for about 3 years so can well imagine that its opened up a bit.

Thanks.
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Matt306
May 23, 2017, 7:40pm Report to Moderator

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I'll try a resurrection so as to prove i used search!

I have a convertible with sticky out bottoms, i would appreciate is someone not afflicted by this could advise of the dimension across across the door seal flanges at the top of B post.


[CT Members ONLY]?


Worcestershire Area Organiser search Facebook for Club Triumph Worcester
Triumph 13/60 1970 Convertible  first car restoration, many botches much learnt... Now back MOTd and Taxed... 2016 RBRR COMPLETE
1974 Spitfire Mk IV in Yellow and Rust... for restoration
Triumph 1000cc 1991 Daytona got to go to pay for Yellow Peril
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Antonnick
May 24, 2017, 10:29am Report to Moderator


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I would like to know this too.


I would also be interested to know why I could not find this thread before ist re-birth, despite using "Tub Spread" in the search box -


Gott hüte mich vorm Sturm und Wind, und Autos ,die aus England sind
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Matt306
May 24, 2017, 10:32am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Antonnick
I would like to know this too.


I would also be interested to know why I could not find this thread before ist re-birth, despite using "Tub Spread" in the search box -


The search defaults to thirty days old and newer you need to change it to the other option


Worcestershire Area Organiser search Facebook for Club Triumph Worcester
Triumph 13/60 1970 Convertible  first car restoration, many botches much learnt... Now back MOTd and Taxed... 2016 RBRR COMPLETE
1974 Spitfire Mk IV in Yellow and Rust... for restoration
Triumph 1000cc 1991 Daytona got to go to pay for Yellow Peril
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Antonnick
May 24, 2017, 10:33am Report to Moderator


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thankyou !  


Gott hüte mich vorm Sturm und Wind, und Autos ,die aus England sind
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scotty71
May 24, 2017, 11:41am Report to Moderator

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another problem which could cause tub spread is the rubber spacer under the mounting points. I had replaced mine about 4 years ago, and they are showing signs of cracking. this could be why the doors catch on the B post.
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Pete Lewis
May 24, 2017, 4:42pm Report to Moderator

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Dont have my Vit6 now so nowt to measure,
the depth of the rear deck makes pulling easier on a saloon thanon  a coupe , you generally have to over pull a good bit to spring back , really the cross car dimension is sort of just pull it to suit, enought to get a flush door bottom.

theres a lot of banging and creaking when you pull ,   if you go too far guess  what
  The boot lid fouls the wings    

there doesnt seem any real clues why these rear ends go wide at the of of the b post wings
everything from door closing loads to tow bars  boot loads and urban myths

its a pain

care with ratchet straps ive seen some indent the wing waist

46.5 " is what springs to mind from the past ,  dont hold me to it

pete


1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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daver clasper
May 24, 2017, 5:18pm Report to Moderator
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  "there doesnt seem any real clues why these rear ends go wide at the of of the b post wings
everything from door closing loads to tow bars  boot loads and urban myths "

Sorry, haven't got the hang of these quotes.


Hi

I have a towbar (fitted to rear chassis cross member and boot out riggers) for occasional use of small trailer.

Is it heavier towing, or just the weight of towbar that may cause this do you know, please (mines not too bad, though don't want to get it).

Thanks, Dave


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heraldcoupe
May 24, 2017, 9:10pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Pete Lewis
there doesnt seem any real clues why these rear ends go wide at the of of the b post wings
everything from door closing loads to tow bars  boot loads and urban myths


I don't think it's any great mystery. Cars built up to the beginning of 1963 are far less inclined to tub spread than later cars. The primary difference in these cars is the supports between the chassis and the front edge of the boot floor. Originally a feature of the Mk1 chassis, they continued on early examples of the Mk2 in conjunction with the newly introduced body mountings above the diff. By early 1963 the front boot floor mounts were deemed unnecessary and deleted. A mistake as far as those of us owning these cars 54 years later are concerned, but doubtless reasonable to the beancounters of the time.
There's no real doubt that overloading the boot is a big contributor, often exacerbated by weakness in the boot riggers through rust.

What's rarely mentioned with regards to tub spread is that as the B-posts spread, the boot aperture closes slightly, bringing problems of clearance between the bootlid and the inner faces of the rear fins, in particular the stainless trims around the lights. Though it's not so easily measured, I'll venture there is a difference in the dimensions between boot floor and rear deck as well. It's much more difficult to remove or install the fuel tank on some examples than it is on others, which should be a clue,

Cheers,
Bill.


Enthusiast and collector of early Heralds.

"The trouble with quotes over the Internet is that you never know if they are genuine." -- Abraham Lincoln
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Matt306
May 31, 2017, 7:29am Report to Moderator

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Thanks Bill. Interesting thought, perhaps a mod of placing the supports back in would help.


Worcestershire Area Organiser search Facebook for Club Triumph Worcester
Triumph 13/60 1970 Convertible  first car restoration, many botches much learnt... Now back MOTd and Taxed... 2016 RBRR COMPLETE
1974 Spitfire Mk IV in Yellow and Rust... for restoration
Triumph 1000cc 1991 Daytona got to go to pay for Yellow Peril
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MDofTW
May 31, 2017, 8:30pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Pete Lewis


there doesnt seem any real clues why these rear ends go wide at the of of the b post wings
everything from door closing loads to tow bars  boot loads and urban myths

pete


Yes, not sure I've gotten these quoty things nailed yet either.

Anyway, reason for post is to apologise if anyone ever saw SPK 267F and wondered why she had tub spread.

Answer, as an 9 year old, I used to fill the poor thing's boot up with (small - well I was only 9), but many, flagstones, drive it (yes, sorry, I was brought up on a farm, and drove anything from that sort of age) diagonally with one front wheel up a bank, and then - to prove to my big bro (so it's all this fault!) how strong I was,  lift the 'dangling' front wheel (already at the end of its suspension travel) off the ground.  Aaaaah, can you imagine the stresses on that poor chassis. And it was a convertible too. I feel so guilty!

Bad person! Still, big bro, not me, wrote the old girl off some years later...I cried for hours when I heard!

Interestingly, Somerset Nick has SPK 263F.
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Nick Jones
May 31, 2017, 9:13pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from MDofTW


Anyway, reason for post is to apologise if anyone ever saw SPK 267F and wondered why she had tub spread.


Interestingly, Somerset Nick has SPK 263F.


Yeah, I noticed the closeness.  SPK263F was born a valencia blue saloon and I bought it from a school teacher in Harrow in 1988 resprayed red and pretty comprehensively knackered.....  Very much Triggers broom now.

Don't think it has tub spread though, measures 46" from door seal lip to door seal lip, just below the b-post cappings.  Which doesn't seem to explain why the doors are a fairly crap fit.

I once hauled a complete 2000 saloon engine home in the boot of my Herald 1200.  The boot even closed.....  It was very low and negative camber at the back and the steering rather light...... Had to drive around like that for a couple of days until I could round up enough labour to get it out again.  The spring never recovered completely (who needs lowering blocks!) but I don't recall the door fit changing.  Two days probably wasn't long enough - good thing too!

Nick


Nick Jones
Somerset UK

Vitesse Mk 1.5 Convertible EFI, Survivor of RBRR 2008, HCR & 10CR 2009, HCR 2010, 10CR2011, HCR 2012, 10CR2013, 10CR2015, HCR 2016 & HCR 2017.
GT6 Mk3 Roto - project in progress
Spitfire MKIV son's project now on the road as a daily driver
2.5 PI Saloon now EFI (PIe?), Engine rebuilt and running sweet.  Diff howling...... Survivor of HCR 2013 & 2014 Gone to live in Swansea

http://www.tengaston.plus.com
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heraldcoupe
June 2, 2017, 8:41am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Matt306
Thanks Bill. Interesting thought, perhaps a mod of placing the supports back in would help.


It's certainly a path I am following with some of my Mk2 projects. Those late-1962 cars with both boot floor and over-diff body mounts are arguably the strongest of the lot and something to be emulated,

Cheers,
Bill.


Enthusiast and collector of early Heralds.

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Nick Jones
June 2, 2017, 9:16am Report to Moderator

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I would definitely do this as part of a restoration and it would actually be perfectly possible to do on a complete car.

Is there a definitive figure for the dimension across the B-pillars (including reference points!)?

Nick


Nick Jones
Somerset UK

Vitesse Mk 1.5 Convertible EFI, Survivor of RBRR 2008, HCR & 10CR 2009, HCR 2010, 10CR2011, HCR 2012, 10CR2013, 10CR2015, HCR 2016 & HCR 2017.
GT6 Mk3 Roto - project in progress
Spitfire MKIV son's project now on the road as a daily driver
2.5 PI Saloon now EFI (PIe?), Engine rebuilt and running sweet.  Diff howling...... Survivor of HCR 2013 & 2014 Gone to live in Swansea

http://www.tengaston.plus.com
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Pete Lewis
June 2, 2017, 8:58pm Report to Moderator

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I Dont know of any body dimensions unless you get hold of some triumph body in white   drawings
Guess there will  be some somewhere

wsm and body fitting manuals dont show anything the 46.5 " is approx and Evolved from trial and error on odd cars  showing spread and subsequent pulling in.

its not definitive

pete


1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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PeteH
August 10, 2017, 2:18pm Report to Moderator

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Hi

Any confirmation that the "objective" dimension is 46.5"?. Measured mine just now (its off the car and stacked on it`s side) in that orientation it measures 46" across the Door seal edges?.

Pete.
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Pete Lewis
August 10, 2017, 2:30pm Report to Moderator

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really its pull the  B post /wing tops in until the doors dont stick out at the bottom  you have to over pull as it springs back....quite a lot ......with all the wide tolerances and 50 year old wonky body and chassis   who knows

its pull till its looking good   46 or 46.5"   is all from trial and error ,   some might be 45.5 some 47  its what suits the eye
not the tape measure
think you are trying to be  a little too accurate

Pete


1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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ahebron
August 29, 2017, 3:40am Report to Moderator


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Finally got around to fitting my door locks on the weekend and discovered a bit of tub spread on the right side.
This meant I was finally able to use my tub spread rig with a 4 ton portapower.
This rig can either pull or push the body and does it with remarkable ease.
It also means each side can be adjusted easily and with out affecting the other side.



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Eastern shore of Te Whanganui-a-Tara

Vitesse 6 (owned since 1982, driven for 6 months a long time ago)
Vitesse Mk11 Conv (owned since 1992, never driven but the first Vitesse I looked at buying back in early 1982)
2000 BMW R1150 GS
2003 FFRR TD6 HSE
2014 VW Amarok Highline 4Motion
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ahebron
August 29, 2017, 3:41am Report to Moderator


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The following posts will have a bit more detail
This is the mount over the tunnel using the seatbelt bolt holes



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Eastern shore of Te Whanganui-a-Tara

Vitesse 6 (owned since 1982, driven for 6 months a long time ago)
Vitesse Mk11 Conv (owned since 1992, never driven but the first Vitesse I looked at buying back in early 1982)
2000 BMW R1150 GS
2003 FFRR TD6 HSE
2014 VW Amarok Highline 4Motion
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ahebron
August 29, 2017, 3:42am Report to Moderator


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This is the handbrake pin brace to stop the tower rotating.
I turned a couple of stepped spacers for the large pivot hole and packed the other side of the brace with washers to make everything snug.



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Eastern shore of Te Whanganui-a-Tara

Vitesse 6 (owned since 1982, driven for 6 months a long time ago)
Vitesse Mk11 Conv (owned since 1992, never driven but the first Vitesse I looked at buying back in early 1982)
2000 BMW R1150 GS
2003 FFRR TD6 HSE
2014 VW Amarok Highline 4Motion
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ahebron
August 29, 2017, 3:45am Report to Moderator


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This is the rig bolted to the plate the door latch uses, the seatbelt bolt hole and the bolt hole for the top of the B pillar.
When I come to work on my Mk2 Convertible I will have to modify it but the basics are all in place.



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Eastern shore of Te Whanganui-a-Tara

Vitesse 6 (owned since 1982, driven for 6 months a long time ago)
Vitesse Mk11 Conv (owned since 1992, never driven but the first Vitesse I looked at buying back in early 1982)
2000 BMW R1150 GS
2003 FFRR TD6 HSE
2014 VW Amarok Highline 4Motion
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ahebron
August 29, 2017, 3:45am Report to Moderator


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The pin detail on the tower with the puller attached



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Eastern shore of Te Whanganui-a-Tara

Vitesse 6 (owned since 1982, driven for 6 months a long time ago)
Vitesse Mk11 Conv (owned since 1992, never driven but the first Vitesse I looked at buying back in early 1982)
2000 BMW R1150 GS
2003 FFRR TD6 HSE
2014 VW Amarok Highline 4Motion
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ahebron
August 29, 2017, 3:47am Report to Moderator


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And the one on the door pillar



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Eastern shore of Te Whanganui-a-Tara

Vitesse 6 (owned since 1982, driven for 6 months a long time ago)
Vitesse Mk11 Conv (owned since 1992, never driven but the first Vitesse I looked at buying back in early 1982)
2000 BMW R1150 GS
2003 FFRR TD6 HSE
2014 VW Amarok Highline 4Motion
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ahebron
August 29, 2017, 3:50am Report to Moderator


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Unfortunately the pulling and pushing cracked the body at the rear near where the roof bolts on.
Out with the mig and its all ready for painting

Adrian



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Eastern shore of Te Whanganui-a-Tara

Vitesse 6 (owned since 1982, driven for 6 months a long time ago)
Vitesse Mk11 Conv (owned since 1992, never driven but the first Vitesse I looked at buying back in early 1982)
2000 BMW R1150 GS
2003 FFRR TD6 HSE
2014 VW Amarok Highline 4Motion
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ahebron
August 29, 2017, 5:29am Report to Moderator


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I must thank Jonny Jimbo for giving me the idea which I then modified for the bits of steel I had lying around.

Adrian


Eastern shore of Te Whanganui-a-Tara

Vitesse 6 (owned since 1982, driven for 6 months a long time ago)
Vitesse Mk11 Conv (owned since 1992, never driven but the first Vitesse I looked at buying back in early 1982)
2000 BMW R1150 GS
2003 FFRR TD6 HSE
2014 VW Amarok Highline 4Motion
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yorkshire_spam
August 29, 2017, 9:34am Report to Moderator

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That's fricking awesome!
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Jonny-Jimbo
August 29, 2017, 9:40am Report to Moderator

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Maybe a better solution than mine in the first place! Not that I ever got round to making mine, so I never got a chance to test it out...


62 Vitesse 1600 - Slammed & modified
67 2000 - Fitted with 2.5 o/d - 2012 RBRR, 2015 Essex Rally, 2016 HCR, 2016 RBRR
67 2000 Estate - Dormant
70 Herald 13/60 - First car, many bits
77 CZ 125 Sport - 70 miles on the clock
77 Kawasaki KM90 - Shop hack
81 Yamaha DT125 - Many bits
88 Ginetta G4/4 - Dead
88 BMW E30 320i - For Sale
89 Citroen AX GT - Rally car!
90 BMW E30 318iS - Building to FIA spec
90 Mazda Eunos 1.6 - 'Popeye'
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Nick Jones
August 29, 2017, 6:48pm Report to Moderator

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Hah..... give an engineer a challenge.....!  I like it very much, but I doubt I could be bothered to make one!

One question though, what dimensions are you setting them to and how are you measuring them?

Nick


Nick Jones
Somerset UK

Vitesse Mk 1.5 Convertible EFI, Survivor of RBRR 2008, HCR & 10CR 2009, HCR 2010, 10CR2011, HCR 2012, 10CR2013, 10CR2015, HCR 2016 & HCR 2017.
GT6 Mk3 Roto - project in progress
Spitfire MKIV son's project now on the road as a daily driver
2.5 PI Saloon now EFI (PIe?), Engine rebuilt and running sweet.  Diff howling...... Survivor of HCR 2013 & 2014 Gone to live in Swansea

http://www.tengaston.plus.com
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ahebron
August 29, 2017, 7:53pm Report to Moderator


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Quoted from Nick Jones
Hah..... give an engineer a challenge.....!  I like it very much, but I doubt I could be bothered to make one!

One question though, what dimensions are you setting them to and how are you measuring them?

Nick


Doors true to the body with the eye-o-meter.
Car body is nearly 50 years old so I reckon thats the best way otherwise I will be trying to set it to unobtanium measurements.
If it looks good it is good

Adrian


Eastern shore of Te Whanganui-a-Tara

Vitesse 6 (owned since 1982, driven for 6 months a long time ago)
Vitesse Mk11 Conv (owned since 1992, never driven but the first Vitesse I looked at buying back in early 1982)
2000 BMW R1150 GS
2003 FFRR TD6 HSE
2014 VW Amarok Highline 4Motion
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Pete Lewis
August 29, 2017, 8:09pm Report to Moderator

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Thats impressive  will you be setting up a tub pulling service???

,makes my bits of timber and studding look sad but even that makes lots of  frightening cracking and creaking when you pull it in ....

pete


1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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Matt306
September 4, 2017, 9:40pm Report to Moderator

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I got some ratchet straps for when i can be bothered to do mine... the doors close and i dont notice it inside got a six cylinder 1600 to repair.


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Triumph 13/60 1970 Convertible  first car restoration, many botches much learnt... Now back MOTd and Taxed... 2016 RBRR COMPLETE
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Triumph Torque    Cars    Herald/Vitesse  ›  Tub Spread

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