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JimmyH
April 22, 2012, 10:05am Report to Moderator

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Hi Guys,
           I have read as much as I could find on how to repair tub spread, but I don't seem to be able to find if it is possible to repair it on a saloon without taking the roof off.  Is it possible or even advisable to sort the tub with the roof on ?

Regards,
    Jim


Vitesse Mk2
East Lothian, Scotland
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dinger
April 22, 2012, 10:53am Report to Moderator
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highly preferable I would think...
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beefertoo
April 22, 2012, 8:26pm Report to Moderator


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first check if the metal's ok at the bottom of the 'b' post, if it is then what i did was to use a chain type block and tackle diagonal between the seatbelt mounts.

while mine is an estate so needs less 'pulling' than a saloon i cant see the roof being on making much difference. i would loosen at least the rear bolts though

craig


craig��in sunny blackpool

1969 1360 estate....now has a mot and legal for the road, just the interior to finish

1972 2500 PI.......sold,too many projects

1962 rover 100.....just because I could

1987 sierra auto....broke it then sold it

1998 Peugeot 106d..... cheaper than chips to run!
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Mark Hammond
April 22, 2012, 8:35pm Report to Moderator

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"Wrap" the rear wings in a ratchet strap, to do this, remove the rear quarter windows, loosen all rear roof bolts and remove the centre B posts adjacent to the rear windows.  Tighten up the straps, wear earplugs so that you won't be disturbed by the creaking and observe.  The job is best done with the roof off.  Pete Lewis is the best authority on this job.  Pete, Pete?  Where are you?

Mark


Herald 1200 Saloon, owned (in the family) from new, Royal Blue/Black trim
[color=purple]MX-5 Z-Sport (Tweaked to 200bhp)2007,
Suzuki Vitara S Auto, Cosmic Black, 2017.
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Rustee
April 22, 2012, 9:35pm Report to Moderator

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I've got a bit of tub spread as i'm 50 this year and need to go on a diet. Your rectification methods sound far too painful!  
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jeepstertim
April 23, 2012, 7:45am Report to Moderator


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Craig

I'm considering doing this on my estate.  Can it be done without damaging paint etc on a road worthy car?

Tim


2.5Pi Estate
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Pete Lewis
April 23, 2012, 1:37pm Report to Moderator

Tssc Herts and Beds A.O.
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Dont take me as the expert on this ,, its just what we did to solve the problem.

some things to dream about

you have to pull the top of the B post wing in twice as far as the spread as it springs back ,,much creaking and cracking will occur

on a saloon you can use the lugs that hold the B post extension in place ,  you can easily remove these and leave the roof on.

in the photo you can see our hotch pot arrangement of bits and bobs with some 12mm rod studding from BQ

this saves having the rachet straps indenting the main wing panel..there is a lot of load required to pull the tub in.

take 3 asprin before you start . and have strong tea at the ready

from memory the dimension to aim for is approx 46.5" across the seal flanges and we had to pull ours in 1.5" to gain a 0.625" spread.    the rear deck panel make buckle and cracked paint is possible.

you cant to this on a convertible as there are no lugs on top of the wing/Bpost

it would make sense to remove the body mounting bolts and repack the finished job with one rubber and as many metal whashers and spacers to re align the door shuts..  we re furbed to a  flat chassis to the drawing tolerances and then fitted a despread tub with 48yrs wonkiness ....some places have over 1" of packer.     Hmmmm!

I would like to say do it with the side glass left in ,but fear this may be over power the glass,    your choice !!

having said that stringing glass back  in with acute corners is not the easiest glass and rubber to string in place .


I use a old leather glove filled with shot or sharp sand makes a good soft weighted glass  whacker ,  use loads of soft soap and make sure the corner is as tight in as possible.












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1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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JimmyH
April 23, 2012, 4:28pm Report to Moderator

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Many thanks guys, lots to think about. I will let you know how i get on.

Regards,

         Jim.


Vitesse Mk2
East Lothian, Scotland
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beefertoo
April 23, 2012, 7:42pm Report to Moderator


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Quoted from jeepstertim
Craig

I'm considering doing this on my estate.  Can it be done without damaging paint etc on a road worthy car?

Tim


i honestly couldnt tell you but i dont think my paint suffered,but then again my paint was very scruffy anyway. i didnt notice anything when i later rubbed down for a respray.

craig


craig��in sunny blackpool

1969 1360 estate....now has a mot and legal for the road, just the interior to finish

1972 2500 PI.......sold,too many projects

1962 rover 100.....just because I could

1987 sierra auto....broke it then sold it

1998 Peugeot 106d..... cheaper than chips to run!
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Jonny-Jimbo
April 24, 2012, 1:52am Report to Moderator


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Pete and co, in terms of the rear windows, the easiest way to do this by far is to remove the B pillars, then they can just slide in and out.... kay, they come out easier and withsome fettling can slide over the seal lips.

I was thinking of using some CDS tube with approximately M12 / M14 threaded plugs welded in, with a LH and RH rose joint at either end, and a large piece of steel hex welded in the centre of the CDS, that way a huage spanner could see the tub spread easily(?) pulled in when mounted to the top of the body tub. It will also allow good finite adjustment with the extra leverage. Slow and steady approach would be required to avoid just pulling the whole tub in on itself!


1962 Vitesse 1600, rally-esque thing
1966 Herald 1200, crap-heap
1967 2000 / 2.5, current daily driver and Round Britain contender
1970 Herald 13/60, very little left now
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate, virtually nothing
1983 Acclaim L, Jewish Racing Beige and Brown. Why do I do it?

1988 BMW 320i, with interesting history! (Soon to be sold... probably)
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Pom Down Under
April 24, 2012, 2:30am Report to Moderator


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Alternatively use a decent piece of rope doubled between the posts (attached of course!).

When twisted together with a length of pipe/or wood/or even a long screw driver the posts will gradually be pulled together. Just don't let go of the twisting device or it will try to break your wrists!! NB Long piece of pipe can make the twisting easier, although they can be a little awkward to use, and have the advantage of being able to be jammed against the floor to leave the pressure applied for an extended period.

Cheap and easy (albeit slow) winch, but perfect for your sort of situation.      
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Pete Lewis
April 24, 2012, 10:00am Report to Moderator

Tssc Herts and Beds A.O.
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I dreamt of attaching to the door striker plate cage nuts saves stripping any body parts ,  food for thought !!
   but have and hopefully will never need to do this again

   what ever method you devise, it takes a lot of energy to get the over pull to set the wing tops back to normal. so does need to be 'safe'

our lumps of wood were just 'available' on the day rather than make up a special drawbar..to  make dedicated one,  thats a good idea to loan out to area cars  with door bottoms sticking out beyond the B shut .


if the spread is off set some have devised a pull from the base of the B post/seat belt anchor area to pull just one side  rather than  just try to pull the two together

one day we will get this right

Pete


1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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ahebron
April 24, 2012, 10:02am Report to Moderator


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I want to do this on my 6 saloon eventually. But I want to use my portapower purely because I have one so will be welding up a cradle to convert push power into pull power.

Adrian


Eastern shore of Te Whanganui-a-Tara

Vitesse 6 (owned since 1982, driven for 6 months a long time ago)
Vitesse Mk11 Conv (owned since 1992, never driven but the first Vitesse I looked at buying back in early 1982)
2000 BMW R1150 GS
2003 FFRR TD6 HSE
2014 VW Amarok Highline 4Motion
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Stodders
April 24, 2012, 4:17pm Report to Moderator

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I have just done this successfully on the convertible  that I am restoring. I had just one side that I could not get the door alignment correct.  Although the door gaps were pretty good, if you looked down one side from the back of the rear wing one side of the car was not as good as the other side.  After days of cursing and swearing trying to align everything I finally decided that I had to get brutal and move one of the 'B' posts in.  As one of the previous posts mentions there is not much to attach to on a convertible so I welded up a bracket that fitted neatly to the top of the B post.  This basically fitted into the door shut.  I simply bolted it on through the holes where the striker plate should be and added a few clamps.  Through a hole in this I fed a hefty piece of studding welded to a piece of dexion that was in turn bolted to opposite lower seat belt mount.   I simply wound a nut on to pull it into place. Don't be fooled, ff your body is good and strong it does take a massive load to adjust it.  I was using pretty tough studding and thought something was going to explode.  Still, managed to move it the required 3/8" which made a massive difference to the general body fit.
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Jonny-Jimbo
April 24, 2012, 5:23pm Report to Moderator


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Pete, what you say is true, sometimes the tub spreads differently on either side, although I guess this is probably rarer, and may have something to do with rot in the body tub on one side - but that is just a thought, no proof.

If I were to make up my threaded cross bar thing I would be happy to lend it out, once proven, but my Vitesse doesn't have middle age tub spread. My old Herald did, and had I known what I now know, I'd have fixed it.

Anyway, as a further development to my threaded pull bar, I suppose if they were made as two separate sections, with a supporting A-frame in the middle it would be possible to adjust each one individually. The picture I've uploaded is a very basic drawing that took about 3 seconds as I'm taking a break from my dissertation!!!



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1962 Vitesse 1600, rally-esque thing
1966 Herald 1200, crap-heap
1967 2000 / 2.5, current daily driver and Round Britain contender
1970 Herald 13/60, very little left now
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate, virtually nothing
1983 Acclaim L, Jewish Racing Beige and Brown. Why do I do it?

1988 BMW 320i, with interesting history! (Soon to be sold... probably)
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