I ordered the timing chain kit and sprockets on line last night so they should be here before the weekend. As this weekend is a bank holiday and I'm also free from the kids I should have plenty of time to get stuck in and get the car back together.
A couple of people suggestted after I'd already ordered the parts that it would be a good idea to upgrade from the standard single chain to the duplex version as used on the 2.5L Engines. Too late now as the parts for a single timing chain set are on their way but probably a good bit of advice. Still if the standard version lasts as long as the first one did (about 70,000 miles and 20 years!), I reckon I should need a full Engine rebuild before then anyway so no worries.
One other useful bit of information, don't bother buying a timing disc if you need to do your valve timing as there are plenty of timing disc images on the internet that can be downloaded for free and printed off on photo paper or card. here's a link to one I downloaded in case you need it:- http://www.gabma.us/tools/DegreeWheel.bmp
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 20th May 2013 10:06pm gmt
Lack of Teeth!
Stripped down the front of the Engine on the GT6 tonight and the issue with the valve timing was blatently obvious.
The tips of all the teeth on the Crankshaft sprocket are missing and the timing chain has worn very loose. The camshaft sproket teeth are also pretty worn. No wonder the valve timing was able to slip.
Crankshaft spocket (at the bottom) has the tips of all the teeth worn away.
Sounds like a fairly easy fix then, timing chain kit and a pair of new sprokets to be ordered and I can hopefully get it sorted next weekend.
Only other part to order is a new water pump housing gasket, the water pump housing had to be removed to get the timing chain cover off due to a pretty crap design by Triumph...
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 19th May 2013 11:27pm gmt
I now know for definite it's a valve timing problem!
Big step forward tonight! I actually know that the reason the engine won't start is because the valve timing is way out, 90 degrees on the crankshaft, that's 45 degrees on the camshaft sprocket.
I was hoping to be able to use a special dial gauge holding spark plug adaptor that I used to use to time Japanese 2 stroke bikes in the 70s to check TDC with my dial gauge, however as the plug holes are recessed on the triumph there wasn't room for the gauge. I used the adaptor though as a reference point face and then measured the piston distance down the plug hole at TDC on the pulley timing marks and just a tad before and after the TDC marks using a digital vernier. This confirmed to me that the pulley timing mark for TDC was spot on ruling out any slippage of the timing mark band on the rubber damped pulley assembly which had been suggestted as a possible reason for the timing constantly drifting.
Taking digital caliper measurements to verify TDC marks on the Cranshaft are correct using a dial gauge spark plug adaptor as a reference face.
I then followed the Triumph Workshop manual, setting the valve clearances on valve 12 and 11 to 40 thou and then rotated the engine until valve number 1 and 2 were at the rocking point, ie one valve just opening and the other just closing. This should correspond with TDC for cylinder No 1 if the valve timing is correct. However I found it is actually set at about 90 degrees After top dead centre. That'll be why she wont start then!
Valve number 1 and number 2 at the rocking point, verified by feeler gauges as both have the same valve clearance.
Pulley Wheel position with valves number 1 and 2 at rocking point. This should be at TDC but TDC mark (the groove on the pulley) is about 90 degrees ATDC!
I now have to strip down the front of the Engine to the timing chain to find out why. This means draining the new coolant I put in last month as the radiator has to come out to gain access. I did also note that the chain sounded rather noisey while I rotated the engine to check the valve timing so I reckon it's certainly faulty.
One good thing that will come out of this is that I've had a leaking timing cover oil seal for years so the oil leak will end up getting fixed by default.
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 16th May 2013 9:54pm gmt
Not the exhaust
Dropped the exhaust off the car and tried to start it last night. Still no firing and the plugs still bone dry despite fuel making it to the carb chokes. There seems to be a lack of vacuum plus the crankcase still appears to be getting pressurised.
I tried a compression test and albeit a cold test (not exactly easy to do a hot compression test if you can't start the car!), the readings were identical at 150psi on all 6 cylinders which sounds about right, especially cold,
Most likely culprit seems to be the valve timing, could be that the cam chain is slack and has been jumping teeth. It has been suggested that the tensioner could have failed. I will also double checkthe distributor drive pin, however this doesn't seem a likely cause as it wouldn't explain the crankcase getting pressurised.
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 14th May 2013 2:19pm gmt
Isle of Wight and SEM
Two Triumph Weekends away, one excellent, the other one didn’t end too well!
May Day Bank Holiday Weekend was the Isle of Wight Triumph Club Camping Weekend. As usual this was a great weekend away, even better this year due to “scorchio” weather on the Sunday and Monday. Due to having both Kids I had to travel over in the modern, however me and the kids managed to blag lifts on the various convoys out so thanks go to Darren, Alan, Becky and carl for making seats available and putting up with Cookies as passengers. Both Kids rather liked the Triumph Saloon’s they travelled in (Darren’s 2500S and Carl’s Sprint) and they want me to get a Dolomite now so I can have a 4 seater Triumph and take them both away Triumph Style. I just may have to look at this if funds allow in the future, it will be like going back to the past as my first Triumph was a Dolly 1850.
On the Saturday we had a convoy out to the needles. I particularly enjoyed going up to the Needles Battery where British Rocket s and Missiles used to be tested in the 60s and 70s, a bit of a climb but well worth it.Saturday night saw a brilliant local band performing in the clubhouse called Lucid. Their finale was a violin based version of Pink Floyd’s comfortably numb may sound a strange concept but it was absolutely brilliant.
Sunday saw a Convoy out to Calborne Mill, now a regular annual trip. The convoy got a bit split up and the cars in front got lost. Darren drove straight there and we arrived before the main convoy so had prime parking spot next to the pond at the mill. On Sunday Evening was the quiz which our area always seem to do well in, this year was no exception and we were winners once again. Then on Monday it was off to the Wight Mouse for some excellent scoff.
Red Funnel managed to screw up our ferry crossing somewhat on the Monday, even though we arrived in plenty of time, our car and about 30 others failed to get onto the ferry we were booked on. They did however give me a 50% off another ferry booking as a goodwill gesture so I’ve purchased a ticket to be used by the ex missus and Kids when they go to the Island in August which should earn me some brownie points.
The following weekend was the SEM (South of England Meet) Triumph Show at Leatherhead. It was a bit quiet on the Saturday and ended up rather wet, fortunately this was after I’d managed to get the tent up. As I was on my own without the kids this year Saturday night was a boys night out to the Wetherspoons and then the Duke pub which had a band on until 1amfollowed by the essential Kebab on the way back to the campsite. Haven’t had a boys night out at SEM for many years and enjoyed this a lot although the head was a bit sore in the morning.
The GT6 wasn’t running too well on the way to Leatherhead, felt like a fuel starvation issue and on Sunday it wouldn’t start. Cleaned out the fuel filter, Fuel pump and carb float chambers of sediment and borrowed a battery off James Cooper to get it fired up as I had flattened mine. It was running like a pig. Adjusted the timing and it seemed way out which was strange as it had only been set a couple of weeks ago. Anyway it wouldn’t start again. Tried changing the rotor arm and dizzy cap as they looked suspect but still no good. There was a mobile tuning company as part of the show so got them to have a look. Had a strong spark, fuel was getting through to the carbs but there seemed to be an issue with a pressurised crankcase and pressure rather than vacuum in the inlets which is all a bit strange. Had the rocker cover off, turned over the engine noting TDC for various cylinders and the valve timing seems ok (we were worried the timing chain may have slipped. Anyway the mobile tuners couldn’t get it going, neither could the AA recovery chappie who was an ex owner of a Triumph 2000 Saloon which he had changed to a 2.5 with a TR6 head, hot cam and flowed exhaust so he did know his way around a Triumph 6 pot. Anyway got it towed back. A few people have suggested it may be a blocked exhaust so I’ll be dropping the exhaust system off the car and trying to start unsilenced as a test.
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 13th May 2013 3:17pm gmt
Back on the Road but still not quite right
Got the GT6 back together this afternoon after replacing the manifold gaskets. However it's still pinking and making a noise under load. I'm pretty sure the noise is coming from under the bonnet rather than the exhaust system and it seems to be associated with the pinking,.
I did do a compression test while I had the manifolds off as I was a bit concerned that the noise could have been a blowing head gasket and I didn't want to have to take the manifolds off again if it turned out top be the head. Obviously as the car was apart the engine was stone cold when I did this so there was quite a lot of variation in readings, however none were really low so I carried on and put the manifolds back on. Anyway now the car is together I've done a hot compression test and it looks ago to me, readings are:- Cylinder PSI 1 220 2 240 3 240 4 230 5 240 6 220
There is less than 10% difference between highest and lowest which is within tolerance. Readings look pretty high but that could just be the gauge, the cheaper gauges don't tend to be calibrated and accuracy in terms of actual pressure is debateable, but the important thing is there are no cylinders with considerably lower pressure or any big variation. For the hell of it I did squirt some oil down the plug holes of the cylinders with the lowest readings and they did improve (up to c270 psi so there may be a little wear in the rings/bores but nothing too serious.
The ignition timing is around 10 deg BTDC at idle tested with a strobe, this is about right but I will try retarding it slightly to see if that sorts the pinking. The rasping noise is a bit of a pain though as I can't find where it's coming from... I thought the Engine had about 85,000 miles on it but checking the MOTs it looks like I've only done about 55,000 miles since I fitted it the Engine in 1993 so it's not a particularly high mileage unit so I'm hoping it doesn't have too much of a carbon build up as I know that can be a cause of pinking.
All my recent fill ups of fuel have been Shell V-Power so I don't think is a crap fuel issue.
I'll also give the carbs a tune.
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 14th April 2013 5:50pm gmt
Manifolds back on
I started putting the manifolds back on having got hold of the gaskets. Seems that the manifold gaskets are not as good as they used to be, the one fitted before had metal reinforced rings around the inlet and exhaust ports. I have a couple of new ones from 2 different suppliers and both are just plain gasket material so not as good and I bet they won’t last as long as the one I took off, this was fitted way back in 1992 when I replaced the Engine!
Anyway made up a couple of replacement studs where the nuts had seized on to old studs and they had come out of the head but couldn’t remove the nuts. I cleaned the threads on the head with a tap where studs need re-fitting with a tap and cleaned the studs that remained in the head with a die nut.
Cleaning the Threads on the studs with a Die Nut.
Cleaning the threads out in the head with a Tap.
I then fitted two replacement core plugs using blue hylomar to aid the seal and drifting the plugs into place carefully using a suitable sized socket.
Plenty of blue hylomar in the core plug hole.
Plenty of blue hylomar around the new core plug
Using a suitable sized socket as a core plug drift, tap into place carefully with a hammer.
A replacement Exhaust Downpipe manifold gasket was then fitted with a ring of fire gum to aid the seal. The New Manifold gasket was then fitted, I always grease my gaskets lightly before fitting, helps them, to seal and also helps next time they need to be removed. A little trick my Dad taught me years ago when teaching me how to fix motorbikes. I then fitted the manifolds. As I said in my last post the lower ones are really awkward to get at, however Marcus advised that a 3/8 drive universal joint, extension bar and 3/8 drive socket would doe the trick. Thanks Marcus this did work a treat.
Using a 3/8 drive socket, universal joint and long extension to do up the hard to get at lower central manifold nuts
That’s it for the evening, I don’t think I’ll get a chance to finish off before the weekend now, as it’s my son’s birthday at a theme park tomorrow I’m out for lots of beers at a work re-union do in London on Thursday, a dirty job but it’s got to be done!
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 10th April 2013 00:18am gmt
Manifolds off
The car coolled down enough after a couple of hours to allow me to work on it. The manifolds are now both out. I'd forgotton just how awakward Triumph made it to get at some of the lower mounting bolts, not enough room to get a socket, offset or straight ring spanner on some of them and the only way to undo is to use an open ended spanner at an angle. Good job they were not too tight or rusted, as it was I managed to skin my knuckles!
I knew that I also have a weep from one of the core plugs under the manifold which I've never bothered to fix so I'll be doing that as well while the manifolds are off.
The only other issue I had is that the heater cable shared off and I couldn't under the retaining nut on the heater valve. Hopefully I'll be able to do this on the bench now the manifolds are off the car....
Block and head with manifolds removed, leaky core plug visible, also that red stuff on the 3rd headstud from the front is my blood from my skinned knuckle!
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 31st March 2013 6:34pm gmt
Blown Gasket
The GT6 has had a bit of a blowing exhaust under acceleration recently, so I checked out the exhaust system today. I did find a slightly loose clamp where the downpipe meets the mid section but having just taken it out for a test drive that wasn't it. I've also had a few issues with pinking under acceleration lately especially when the car gets hot.
Having revved the car up on the driveway after the return from the test drive I can now hear that the blowing is coming from the manifold gasket. That's probably why the car is pinking as well as the gasket is a combined inlet and exhaust manifold gasket so it may well be leaking on the inlet leading to a weakening of the mixture at high vacuum.
The car is hot now so I can't really fix it yet as I haven't got asbestos fingers!, but at least I know what I need to do to sort it out later...
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 31st March 2013 3:07pm gmt
That's Better!
After all the struggles to sort out my wheel bearing over the last few week's I took the car down to Moonface for an MOT this afternoon at at long last have a MOT pass certificate.
Car is now already for the Triumphing season :-).
I noticed a subtle chnage to the MOT certificate this year, as well as the current mileage it also show the mileages and dates of the previous 3 MOT's to try and prevent people clocking thier car. Not a bad idea if you are a car buyer and shouldn't be a problem if you are selling a car unless you have something to hide....
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 14th March 2013 7:46pm gmt
Back together
Halfshaft is now back in the car. Everything is bolted into place, flexible brake pipe, and handbrake cable back in place, brake adjusted.
Tomorrows job will be bleeding the brakes then hopefully the GT6 will be ready for an MOT re-test at last....
All back in
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 09th March 2013 11:42pm gmt
Halfshaft rebuilt and going back on the car
I finished assembling the halfshaft tonight, fitting the brake shoe assembly and hub, bolting the inner halfshaft to the rotoflex coupling. Once the coupling was bolted up it was time to cut off the steel compression band that comes fitted to new rotoflex couplings.
I then did a bit of preventative maintenance to safe hassle later on. The long lower outer wishbone bolt has a tendency to seize up on rotoflex suspension. When I replaced the bolt and wishbone trunnion bush assembly a few years ago I used copperease grease to try and make the job easier. This has worked as the bolt still turns and can be pushed out reasonable easily, so I took the opportunity to re-grease with copper ease. The nylon bushes still have no play so I haven't replaced them this time around.
Then it was time to get the halfshaft back on the car. I wriggled it into place and replaced the diff UJ flange bolts to hold the shaft in place. Then played about with jacks and prybars to get the lower inner wishbone bush into place on the chassis bracket and got the bolt in place.
Copperease added to the lower outer wishbone trunnion bolt hole
Cutting the Temporary Rotoflex Compression strip fitted to a new coupling
The next job ids the toughest one on rotoflex suspension cars, replacing the upper vertical link swing eye bolt. The essential tool here is the famous Triumph spring lifting tool. It was getting late so I've set everything up ready but will leave it until the weekend to get the jacks and prybars etc out to get this into place. Always a job that requires plenty of cursing and swearing!
The Rotoflex Springf Lifting Tool in use
Getting Ready for replacing the upper vertical link spring eye bolt, the toughest job when replacing a Rotoflex halfshaft
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 07th March 2013 11:33pm gmt
Coming back together now
I feel like I’m starting to make progress at last
I went up to the Triumph Spares Show at Stoneleigh where I had arranged to meet Tim Ward who kindly donated a couple of unknown quality Rotoflex hubs. I checked them out quickly at Stoneleigh and one looked like it would be OK the other had some wear on the inside face. Richard Brake had also collected some 5/8 unf nuts, they were supposed to be the thin type like the original fitment but they are still thick like the ones all the Triumph Suppliers are providing, however it doesn’t do any harm to have spares…
Once Home I cleaned up the two hubs that Tim had given me, one was definitely too worn and also had a big burr due to previous big hammer abuse that would have stopped the drum sitting flush without some major filing but the other one looked good, the splines inner face and bearing faces in good condition and I checked the flange for run out and it was true. The only issue was that the two holes for the brake drum screws both had screw shafts stuck in them with a slight counter sink which looked like someone had probably drilled the heads off the screws to get a brake drum off!
Anyway, a bit of work carefully drilling them out with a pillar drill and re-tapping the threads had them sorted. So I now had one decent hub. I then changed over the wheel studs pressing in the new extended ones.
The rest of yesterday evening and this evening was spent assembling the drive shaft assembly to check spacers and shim requirements, building up with dry bearings to check end float and then packing with grease, reassembling and finally torqueing up the driveshaft nut with a new nut and Loctite threadlock. I also re-checked the hub for run out on the final assembly and it’s fine. I’ve now run out of time and I only have a couple of hours on Thursday night available to work on the car this week which should give me a chance to a chance to build up the brake assembly and bolt on the inner drive shaft but it will be the weekend before I can start putting the shaft back in the car.
Plenty of grease used to pack the bearings
Replacement hub Torqued down with new nut on driveshaft locked iwth locktite threadklock and new Extended length wheel studs fitted.
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 05th March 2013 00:01am gmt
Dodgy Flange Piece Oooh Errrh
I got the halfshaft assembly all built up with the brake shoe assembly and drum last night. Gave the assembly a spin to ensure the brakes weren’t binding and noticed there was a severe amount of lateral run out on the drum face where the road wheel would sit.
I checked it with my DTI gauge and the run out measured in at well over 2mm at a radius of 55mm. I calculated that it would have equated to a 12mm run out at the wheel rim, obviously not acceptable!
Measuring the Lateral Run Out with a Dail Gauge
I suspected that the most likely thing wrong would be a bent outer halfshaft although it could also be a bent hub. To be honest it was getting late and I was frustrated and I thought damn it lets just get a complete 2nd hand halfshaft assembly to bolt back in the car. Sent off various emails and a post on the Club Triumph forum after midnight last night to see if anyone had any for sale. Lots of responses from the Forum and one from a Wins International who were listing 2nd Hand halfshaft assemblies on their web site. Plenty of responses but having thought about it I have a new bearing, a new rotoflex coupling a vertical link with good lower wishbone bushes and a long bolt that’s not seized so it would be daft to go over to a complete unknown quantity assembly when most of mine is good. I therefore decided to strip out the hub and outer halfshaft and inspect carefully to find which parts are damaged.
The most obvious culprit, the halfshaft actually seems to be true, but the hub certainly isn’t. I put the back face of the hub the a flat surface block of my Vice and measured the distance to the front of the hub flange around the circumference with my digital callipers. Sure enough the hub is distorted, the largest and smallest flange distance dimensions differ by 2.6mm around the circumference!
Measuring the Hub Flange Distortion with digital Calipers
New hub required then. Post put on the Club Triumph Forum to see if anyone has any good 2nd hand rotoflex hubs, I’ll probably ravel up to the Triumph Spares Show at Stoneleigh on Sunday to either pick one up from a member or try and find one. Failing that Canley Classics do have new ones but they are about 80 quid, ouch!
The other pain is that I’ve fitted my new outer wheel bearing and extended wheel studs to the bent hub so I’ll have to carefully try and recover these.
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 28th February 2013 11:19pm gmt
Good Job I had a stock of spare outer halfshafts!
The work to replace the wheel bearing and rebuild the halfshaft continued tonight. I had a bit of advice from two well respected Triumph aficionados who suggested that it was better to have a bit of pre-load on the bearing and to leave well alone now I had come up with zero end float. However, the fact that the larger distance piece and 5 thou spacer arrived in the post today I thought I’d give setting up another go. Probably just as well as I ended up adding another 6 thou of adjustment to get 1 thou of end float measured and verified with my DTI gauge. I would have had 5 thou of preload if I’d left the setting alone which I think would have been too much so I’m happy with the end float now.
Bearings were then greased, oil seal added and everything assembled with the replacement half shaft I’d selected from my “good” 2nd hand spares. Except it turned out not to be a good half shaft after all, despite the fact that I drifted the assembly fully together first to save too much drawing the bearing down with the shaft and the thread on the shaft looked good it stripped before I got to the required tightening torque.
Damn It!
I then had to strip out the shaft, remove the big block spacer, dust cover disc and rotoflex coupling and build up another shaft. I picked what I considered to be the next best shaft, it looked good except there was a slight taper on the last few threads which is why I had demoted it to 2nd place. However on reassembly I torqued down the halfshaft nut to the top end of the 90-120 lb/ft setting, I used loctite thread lock, even more essential with the tapering of the end of the treads making the nyloc of the nut pretty much useless on the thicker than standard nuts that seem to be the only ones you can get hold of nowadays.
Essential addition, Loctite Threadlock due to the thicker than original halfshaft nuts now supplied by Triumph Specialists.
Torque wrench is essential to ensure the right Torque as it's bloody tight, 90 - 120 ft/lb
I was hoping to get everything ready for refitting the halfshaft to the car tomorrow night but the replacement of the stripped halfshaft lost me quite a bit of time. I’ll reassemble the inner halfshaft to the rotoflex tomorrow, build up the brake shoe assembly and replace the hub tomorrow night and start refitting the halfshaft on Thursday night. Hopefully everything will be fully back together overt the weekend and I can re-submit it for MOT next week. Unfortunately this will be past the 10 working day re-test limit and with the new computerised MOT system it will have to be a full test rather than a re-test. The MOT will also have run out by then so no legal way to road test the car until I’m on my way to the test station although I’ll no doubt run it around the block carefully before then.
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 27th February 2013 00:11am gmt
Slow Progress when you have to wait for parts through the post
Carrying on with the halfshaft rebuild but it’s a slow job when you have to wait for parts to arrive via mail order. Especially when you can’t order them all in one go. With the rear wheel bearing adjusted by a distance spacer and shims it’s not possible to work out if you need different spacer and shim combination until you get the unit assembled with the new bearing.
Anyway, I have got to the stage now where I’ve been able to determine that I need to order a different size spacer and shim combination. I drifted the new bearing races into place in the vertical link and assembled with the hub and bearing in a dry condition (ie no grease) to measure up. Using the one spare distance spacer I had plus two 3 thou shims I used the Canley Classics method of measuring using a straight edge across the bearing/inner shaft face using feeler gauges. It seemed that I would have an end float of 2 thou which is within the ½ thou to 2 ½ thou tolerance recommended by Triumph.
New Bearing Races Drifted into Place in the Vertical Link
Measuring the predicted end float using the Canly Classics Straight edge and Feeler Gauge Method
I then assembled with an outer halfshaft to check the end float with a DTI gauge. I used an old outer halfshaft and nut as the thread is a weak point and I didn’t want to risk damaging the replacement halfshaft with the unnecessary assembling and de-assembling. I drifted the assembly together to get a good portion of thread showing and then tightened up the axle nut to 110 ft lb which is towards the top end of the torque setting which draws the hub assembly onto the halfshaft fully home. Although the bearing was rotating freely I couldn’t detect any end float which was also borne out by the DTI gauge. I therefore reckon the distance spacer and shim assembly I have used is set with pretty much zero end float.
Checking the Bearing End Float with a DTI Gauge
I’ve currently used a 144 thou spacer and two 3 thou shims. I’ve ordered the next spacer size up, 148 thou and a 5 thou shim from Canleys. Although the 5 thou shim isn’t shown as part of the hub assembly in the parts manual it is available as a pinion shim part of the diff assembly. With the two spacers and 3 shims I should be able to come up with various combinations in 1 thou increments until I get the correct end float which will be verified with my DTI gauge. I’ll then assemble together with the replacement halfshaft and a new nyloc nut. 1 pain is that it seems non of the traders supply the correct nut any more, the original nyloc was a thinner than standard 5/8 UNF nut, but the last two suppliers I’ve used when doing halfshaft rebuilds have only been able to supply a full thickness nut which means there is very little shaft for the nylon locking to engage with. I’ll therefore use loctite threadlock on the assembly just to make sure.
Another job I’m doing at the same time is replacing the weel studs with extended versions and fitting 10mm wheel spacers to get around a clearance problem with the Cosmic Alloys potentially fouling on the shroud of the lower wishbone bush. I ordered a par of spacers on ebay that were supposed to fit wheel PCDs of 95 – 114mm. Triumphs have a 95mm PCD so these should have fitted. However although they go over the studs they won’t sit flush and fouled on the lower portion of the stud. I’ve measured the wheel spacers carefully and it seems they have actually been made with slots to suit a 100mm minimum PCD rather than 95mm. Despite the bubble packing stating 95mm! So trying to get a refund through ebay at the moment. I’ve already fitted two of the extended wheel studs so as a temporary measure I’ll use 2 6mm wheel spacers I’ve got lying around on the rebuilt shaft and leave the other side as is. The difference of 12mm on the offsets of each side shouldn’t make that much difference as a temporary measure until I can get a sensible set of 10mm spacers that fit.
Extended Wheel Stud Fitted
10mm Wheel Spacer
Spacer Won't Fit Flush
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 24th February 2013 4:38pm gmt
Half shaft rebuild underway
Still waiting for my rear wheel bearing to be delivered, card through the door from the postman while I was at work so I'll pick it up from the sorting office tomorrow. In the meantime I set about getting stuff ready to rebuild the halfshaft assembly.
I've decided to replace the outer driveshaft as well just in case there is something wrong with it which was causing the bearing issue. I had a choice of 3 2nd hand spares so I chose the best one, in particular the one with the best thread at the end which is a weak point. I've got a die nut the right size for the thread so I also ran that down the tread to clean it up nicely.
Replacing the outer halfshaft means the rotoflex coupling has to be removed, the coupling fitted is still in very good condition, however I had one brand new genuine metalastic rotoflex coupling in my stash of spares so I decided to rebuild the halfshaft using this. I now have two 2nd hand but good condition genuine metalastic rotoflex couplings in my spares stock. Although it would be a bit of hassle to refit these if I need a replacement as they don't have the temporary steel compression band in place that new ones do it would probably still be better to do that than fit pattern ones which wear out in 5 minutes and new genuine ones are now well expensive so I'll keep and cherish the used spares!
I've also ordered some extended wheel studs and 10mm wheel spacers which should resolve the issue I have with limited clearance between the cosmic alloys and the lower wishbone bush shrounds. Easiest to fit these while I've got the hub off although I'll change the studs on the other side hub in situ which probably means stripping out the brake shoes etc but no big deal.
So tomorrow once I get the bearing I can measure up and find out which distance piece I need to buy to set the bearing end float in order to be able to finish the job.
Shaft rebuilt with replacement outer shaft and new metalastic rotoflex xcoupling. The UJ was replaced 1000 miles ago so I've left that well alone. (Must get around to tidying up my messy workbench sometime!)
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 19th February 2013 11:17pm gmt
The horrors within!!
Got the drive shaft out of my car and stripped down the hub, shaft and vertical link assembly. Not a pretty sight....
The bearing itself actually looked reasonable, but it was pretty obvious why the play had developed. The inside face of the hub bears up against the adjustment shims which in turn face up to a distance piece. What I found is that the inside face of the hub had worn, the 2 shims that I had fitted had worn away to almost nothing (just a small portion of 1 remained!) and the distance piece had also worn on both the face and the outer diameter. Quite a mess.
All 3 parts are scrap. Fortunately I have a spare hub in good condition, just as well as they are over 80 quid each. I have a couple of shims and a new bearing on order. I'll have to build up the assembly with the new hub and a new bearing to see what size distance piece I require and if I need any more shims as the distance piece and shims take up the tolerances in the hub and bearing manufacture. I do have one spare distance piece but I'd be very lucky if it works out to be the right size.
And all this wear took place within 1200 miles and between MOTs! Nasty.
Chewed up inner face of the hub...All nasty and burred up, hence it's picked up some thread off my rag.
Worn Distance piece, this part should actually have a straight edge outside instead of tapers!
All that was left of 2 shims.
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 18th February 2013 10:22pm gmt
Another MOT another wheel bearing!
Took the GT6 down to Moonface to get a quote on some bodywork the other day. The intention was to split the quote down into anything needed for the MOT and then the rest of the work as the MOT is up at the end of the month.
Jim down at Moonface suggestted best way to do this was to actually put it in for the test, I knew I had an issue with the rear nearside wheel bearing but thought what the heck, at least it will tell me anything else that needs doing.
Sure enough the wheel bearing failed the test, but that was it, no other problems. So I know what I need to do in the evenings next week, rotoflex wheel bearing change.
As any Triumph experts know chnaginmg a wheel bearing on a Rotoflex car is a PITA. To make matters worse, my car has been eating rear nearside wheel bearings for a while, the last one only lasted 1,000 miles and the one before that only 3,000 so something is definitly not quire right. The rear nearside is the axle that got knocked about a bit when we spun off the road after a near miss with a deer on the RBRR back in 2010 resulting in a broken tie rod so it could be that the outer halfshaft is slightly damaged although I couldn't find any damage when I checked it. It could also be some wear in the splines on either the outer halfshaft or hub so I've sourced some decent 2nd hand replacements and I'll rebuild the halfshaft with a hub and shaft change at the same time as the wheel bearing. I guess the other possibility is that the wheel bearings available now are of dodgy quality, like lots of our spares which seem to be sub standard far east manufacture nowadays, just hope this is not the case....
The bearing is adjusted using shims and a distance piece that comes in various sizes. If I'm changing the hub then sods law the existing distance piece won't be the right one for the new hub. These were pretty much unavailable parts last time I looked but I can see that both Canley Classics and Mick Dolphin list some of the sizes now, in fact the same parts are avbailable under different part numbers for the 1300/1500 fwd models so fingers crossed the one I need will be available other wise I'll need to have one made up....
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 17th February 2013 12:20am gmt
Still Weaving on down the road
Having found a half flat rear tyre last week I was pretty convinced I'd found the source of the weave that was apparrent on the GT6 at speed.
As per my last blog post I took the opportunity to replace the rear shock bushes as they were showing signs of distortion and also the mounting bolts. I went out for a run in the car on Thursday night only to find that the weave was still there...
Although the weave felt like it was at the back end because I'd throughly checked out the rear suspension it was time to check out the front end.
I found an issue fairly quickly, one of the front anti roll bar drop links had come apart and the rubber bush at the end of the roll bar had detached it self from the link. A pair of new links on order, hopefully that will fix it. May be that was even the source of my annoying squeak, fingers crossed!
Anti Roll Bar drop link with detached bush
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 20th October 2012 9:52pm gmt
You should always check the simple stuff first!
Those of you who frequent the Club Triunmph Forum may have read some recent posts of mine regarding an annoying squeak that seems to be coming from the drivetrain or suspension on the GT6.
Having checked the car out pretty throughly including wheel bearings, brakes, driveshafts, propshaft, front and rear suspension I wasn't too worried as although I couldn't find the issue it didn't seem to be serious, more annoying.
That was until last week when on the way back from the local Club Triumph Surrey area meeting the car was exhibiting some handling problems at speed where the back end started to weave at about 70 mph ish.
I immediatly thought, that'll be whatever was squeaking and the following evening started to strip down the rear suspension thinking maybe it was a rear shock or a problem with the spring.
Anyway stripped down one side and found no issues, went to strip down the other side and straight away it became apparent that the rear offside tyre was somewhat soft. Checked the pressure and it was down to 7 psi... That'll be the weaving issue then, why the heck didn't I check the tyre pressures before strting to strip down the suspension! Lesson learnt me thinks!
Anyway, I took the opportuinity to replace the bushes on the rear shocks as they were looking past thier best. I have one of the Moss rear suspension conversion kits that moves the shock mount away from the wheelarch and onto the chassis as below.
Moss Rotoflex shock absorber mounting modification as fitted.
Although this is superiror to the original mounting point in the wheelarch there are two issues with this set up. Firstly the shock sits at a slight angle fore and aft which is not good for the rubber bushes as they are constantly deformed. Secondl;y and I can only think it's to save money, instead of using a shouldered bolt like on the non-rotoflex cars Moss supply a normal bolt and a sleeve whcih goes right through the bracket. Difficult to explain but in order to remove the shock top mount or the bracket you have to struggle to get the sleeves out as well as the bolt. Very difficult once things have started to corrode or sieze into place
Having struggled to get the sleeves out I not only replaced the bushes but also chnaged the mountinmg bolts for the shouldered type as it should make removing the shocks in future loads easier.
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 16th October 2012 11:50pm gmt
An Eventfull and Challenging Round Britain Run
Well, Team 3 completed the Club Triumph Round Britain Reliability Run successfully, but it was certainly not without it’s challenges this year and certainly was very eventful…
Mark turned up at my house on the Friday afternoon in the 2500S and the steering had quite a severe shake at about 70mph. As he had rebuilt the steering rack and replaced the rack mounts a few days before we went along to a tyre place around the corner from mine to get the tracking done and have the wheels balanced to try and resolve the steering shake. There was an improvement but it was still shaking after this, no alternative but to carry on.
Tracking and Wheel Balancing being done last minute
We fought our way through the traffic on the M25 and arrived at the Plough in Enfield for the start with about 1 ½ hours to go until the start. Just enough time to sign in, get a quick meal at the pub and talk to the other crews.
A few pictures from the Start
Mark ready for the off
Johnny's Spit, recently restored
Roy's GT6 Mark 1 ready to go
Tim's GT6 Mk3
We then left and were making good time going North. However around Newark on the A1 we started having a problem with the headlights. The issue was that when driving along on dip headlights the main beam would intermittently switch itself on, not very nice for other drivers in front or coming the opposite way. We pulled over to have a quick check of the wiring and dip switch stalk but couldn’t really do much at the road side so we drove on to the control point at Blythe services driving on front foglights when ever the fault kicked in. Once we got to Blythe, Mark changed the switch for a spare but the spare was found to be faulty. He put the old switch back and cut the wiring putting another switch in line with the main beam so that it could be switch out. We left to go on our way after a delay of about 1 hour. Shortly after leaving the issue started again and the switch Mark had installed made no difference, we therefore knew that the fault must be further down in the wiring or relays for the headlights, not a quick fix in the dark as the grille and headlamps would need to be removed. We therefore decided to crack on, driving on front fog lights and mainbeam rather than dipped headlights…
At Corbridge on the A68, Mark put his foot down to overtake a slow driving TR4 that was holding us up, our car suddenly started misfiring and the engine nearly conked out, we found it would only run on choke, being very dark and isolated and with nowhere suitable to pull over and investigate we continued with the choke pulled out and it ran acceptably although fuel consumption was likely to be an issue. We decided to wait until the control at Edinburgh Airport to investigate further as it would be nice and light under the bright lights.
We crossed the border into Scotland at the Carter Bar control point about 10 minutes late but it was still open for signing the log book. A few miles later on we were flagged down by Matt George and his team 87 crew who were stranded in a lay-by in Jedburgh with a broken rear drive shaft, Mark had a spare in the boot which we let them have and went on our way leaving them to repair. We caught up with Matt and the crew the next day in Scotland and it was really good to see that they had managed to get repaired and back into the event. Also I've just seen that they have sponsored our team as a thank you which was unexpected!
Before we got into the next control at Edinburgh the fault with the engine running cured all by itself and we could run without choke again…One less job to do.
We arrived at Edinburgh airport just about on time. While I was there I caught up with Chris Sherrington and his wife Zoe who live locally and had come along to give the teams their support. Chris and Zoe had been set to complete the run themselves but unfortunately he couldn’t quite finish building his car in time. I took the opportunity to have a quick chat with Chris who was a member of the Team GB Olympic squad this year taking part in the Judo. I cheekily got him to autograph a photo I’d printed off for my son James who trains at Judo. Many thanks for this Chris he was really chuffed with it! You are in good company as James now has 3 autographs in his collection and the other two are Sir Geoff Hurst and John Surtees OBE!
I drove the next bit of the drive which was from Edinburgh up to Skiach Services just north of Inverness. This included the A9 through the highlands where we had had an incident on the last RBRR having spun off the road avoiding a rather large Stag (deer) that ran out in front of us which had damaged the car. This year the A9 highland stretch went without incident although it was rather challenging driving on fog lights and main beam as it’s pretty dark up there! We got to Skiach on time and also onto John O’Groats on time for breakfast. Before getting into John O’Groats we discovered an issue with the windscreen washers which was fixed at John O’Groats, it turned out the connections were the wrong way round and the pump was blowing into the bottle rather than sucking fluid out!
John O'Groats Control, Seaview Hotel
Team 3 at John O'Groats Control
Team 3 at first and last house John O'Groats
The next stretch across the top of Scotland and down the centre is along some really isolated single track roads with beautiful scenery. Unfortunately we came across a crew who had gone off the road in an accident ahead of us and their car was stuck off the road at the side of a loch. Along with a few other crews we tried to get the car out but were unable. Luckily no-one was hurt and one person actually managed to just about get a signal on the mobile to call out the breakdown services.
Parked up by Loch Naver, North Scotland
We were then on our way and made it into our next control stop at the Conon Bridge Hotel where a lunch of Burgers, Bacon Rolls and Hot Dogs had been laid on. After lunch in the daylight Mark took the grille and headlights off the car to investigate the main beam fault, he tried replacing the relays but that didn’t work so I suggested he turned the lights on and wriggled the wiring. Sure enough this managed to flush out the fault which was caused by two connectors shorting out against each other in the wiring. This was sorted with insulating tape so we had working headlights again ready for the Welsh mountains that night.
Jess & Steph with the Dolomite at Conon Bridge, complete with Tutus and Fairy Wings
We were the last car to leave Conon Bridge after time spent on repairs and were about 1 hour behind time, so with some careful navigating to cut out some of the advisory route and some “spirited” driving we managed to get to the next stop at Morrisons Garage Stirling on time for the Scotch Pies that they lay on every year.
Morrisons Garage Control Stp, Stirling
Team 3 at Morrisons Garage, Stirling
Andy Roberts' Stag Saloon at Morrisons Garage
The next stint down to the control at Tebay services on the M6 went well and we arrived before the control was open giving time for a coffee. It was then on to the next control at Oswestry which again went well without incident and we arrived early.
The next part of the run was driven by Mark through the Welsh Mountains to an isolated control point in the middle of nowhere just north of Landovery. On the way there the car started making some intermittent horrible rattling/screeching noises. We checked it out and couldn’t find anything obviously wrong. After an oil top up we were on our way and I drove the next stretch across the Brecon Beacons and down through the Forest of Dean across the Severn bridge to Gordano Services. Again we were slightly early at the control giving time for a well earned coffee. On the way down the rattling/screeching had continued and also the steering vibration had also come back, we had a quick check but couldn’t see anything untoward so decided to crack on and check the car out in the day light later on. During the next part of the journey the car was unpleasant to drive with the vibration and had now also started pulling to one side a bit. We stopped at Exeter and checked the tyre pressures and found one side was pretty low at the front so this was pumped up. The next control at Oakhampton was reached on time.
I dove the next stint down to Lands End, although the vibration was still there intermittently the car was going well and I was getting a little over exuberant along the empty A30 and overtook several other crews and a black BMW. A few miles later the BMW went past and blue flashing lights came on, it was an unmarked police car, I thought I was going to be booked for speeding but he turned off the lights and turned off the road at the next junction so fortunately all he had done was to warn me to slow down, phew!
We got to Lands end nice and early and had the cooked breakfast that had been laid on. After breakfast it was daylight so we jacked the car up to investigate the rattling, screeching and vibration. Mark found the issue fairly quickly and it wasn’t good news. A front suspension tie rod mounting on the chassis had big cracks and corrosion all around it. We really thought we would need to retire and get recovered but fortunately one of the local Club Triumph Members, Derek Penn, who was Marshalling at the control very kindly offered to weld a repair. Derek lives about 30 miles away near Cambourne so we carefully followed him and his wife Stephanie back to his house avoiding heavy Braking and cornering and driving very slowly.
Chassis Damage discovered at Lands End
Full Extrent of the Damage revealed
Once back to Derek’s place Mark stripped out the suspension and Derek got to work making up and welding in a repair panel. There was a lot of corrosion around the mounting point so it was fairly challenging but Derek succeeded in making a good enough repair to get us back in the event. Thanks ever so much for your help Derek and thanks for the drinks and the use of your loo Stephanie. Your help really was appreciated and made the difference to us being able to finish the event.
Derek at work making up a repair panel
Welding in Progress
The finished repair, not pretty but certainly strong enough for us to continue.
We were now running about 1 ½ hours late we managed to get in touch with the next control at Bude and they stayed open for us. We then made up a bit of time and got to Badgers Holt control at Dartmeet about 1 hour late and then onto the next control at Sixpenny Handly (Dorset) about 55 minutes late, although we were told there that we had at least 6 cars behind us so we’d made up good time. This had been helped by taking an alternative route that Mark knew living very local to the control, a route that took in a serious driving road, zig zag hill which he certainly enjoyed as he demonstrated how to drive up it.
Team 3 at Badgers Holt
We drove on with a spirited drive to the next control at the TR Register offices in Didcot. I was driving this bit and overtook quite a few crews and we ended up there only 10 minutes late which meant we’d made up about 50 minutes.
The last section of the run back to Enfield had an advised route up to the M40 at Oxford down the M40 and round the M25. On a Sunday evening this sounded horrendous so we decided to use an old rather complicated route that had been used on a previous RBRR that would cut across to the A41 on back roads. Mark was driving and I navigated, or at least I tried to. However the sleep depravation of the last two days has really kicked in and “scrambled” my brain so we got lost! Using the sat nav to get us back on track we picked up the official route to the M40 but had now lost loads of time. This wasn’t helped by some awful traffic jams around High Wycombe on the M40. We arrived at the finish about 50 minutes late which wasn’t too bad as they were still serving food at the pub so after checking in and getting our roadbook signed by the Marshalls we had a quick meal before heading home. Job Done!
As of this evening (1 day after the run) we had raised £528 (inc Gift Aid) sponsorship for the Children with Cancer charity which is is just above the target I set of £500. I still have a couple of freinds and family who have promised but haven’t sponsored yet and it's still not too late to donate if you are reading this! Go to:- http://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/team/RBRR_Cook_and_Bland
There is only two years to go until the next Round Britain Run so it will soon be time to get planning and preparing!
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 08th October 2012 4:50pm gmt
A Fun Weekend
Last weekend I went up to the TSSC International in Stafford, unfortunatly 1 adult (well in size anyway!), 2 kids and camping gear for a weekend don't fit in a GT6 so I had to take the Beemer estate. I must admidt it felt strange not having the GT6 there.... However the good news is tyhat there was room to take a lot of extra camping stuff and camp cookie was set up like a home from home!
It's 3 years since I last managed to get along to the Stafford show so it was good to be there again and for me this is as much a social event as a car meet so it was great to catch up with freinds. The show itself was a celebration of 50 years since the 1st Spitfire and Vitesse hit the streets so the hall was packed out with Vitesses and Spittys on the Saturday for a special display although there werea few other Triumphs.
One car that caught my eye was a Herald that had been converted to Electric with loads of batteries undre the bonnet and in the boot plus an electric motor where the gearbox would normally sit. The owner told me that the motor is a type used for drag racing and can kick out 400 BHP but he has it set at 100 BHP to extend the range, still powerfull enough to power a Hearld, apparntly range is 70 - 80 miles if it's not pushed too hard but can be down to 20 miles at 80mph on the motorway! The other thing about the car is that I recognised the registration as it is Leon Guyot's old Herald which I remember well from my early day's in the club. Leon emigrated out to the USA in the 90s but took his rather nice Vitesse with him nd it;s still on the road out there...
One car that caught my eye was a Herald that had been converted to Electric with loads of batteries undre the bonnet and in the boot plus an electric motor where the gearbox would normally sit. The owner told me that the motor is a type used for drag racing and can kick out 400 BHP but he has it set at 100 BHP to extend the range, still powerfull enough to power a Hearld, apparntly range is 70 - 80 miles if it's not pushed too hard but can be down to 20 miles at 80mph on the motorway! The other thing about the car is that I recognised the registration as it is Leon Guyot's old Herald which I remember well from my early day's in the club. Leon emigrated out to the USA in the 90s but took his rather nice Vitesse with him nd it;s still on the road out there...
For me the best bit of Stafford is always the party on the Saturday night, a few years back my TSSC area started making it an unofficial fancy dress and it now has become an official fancy dress do with a theme. This year it was a night at the movies with peoiple going as various movie characters. I went along as Haniball Leckter, a nice easy costume with a £3.99 mask off ebay and a pair of overalls, but very effective! There were plenty of really great costumes.
There were also bumper cars, which is great fun, especially after a few beers!
A few more pictures of cars at the show....
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 25th August 2012 11:03pm gmt
Steaming!
Had a great day out at the Club Triumph National. This year it was only about 25 miles down the road at Holycombe Steam Museum near Liphook. Although it is a local attraction it was somewhere I'd never visited before, but I'm sure it's somewhere I'll be visiting again soon.
I had intended it to be a family day out, however my 9 year old daughter had other ideas, got stroppy and refused to come along so it ended up with just me and my son.
The run down was pretty uneventful apart from the fact that it was the first time I'd used the new Hindhead tunnel on the A3. Good excuse to wind down the windows, drop the GT6 out of overdrive and press the loud pedal to hear the glorious 6 pot exhaust reverberating in the Tunnel!
I thought this sign was rather apt for a "Triumph" day!
As is normal for the Club Triumph national it's a pretty low key and informal event but there was a good variety of Triumphs to mooch around before going in to the museum and a few freinds to catch up with for a natter.
Also to add a bit of interest there was a classic bus rally being held on the same day. In fact one of the Dolomite Club guys, Marty, who attends our monthly meets also owns a really nice Routemaster Bus and he came down in that rather than a Triumph.
Marty's bus is the one in the foreground.
There was a visit from 4 Bugatti replicas who were invited to park up with the Triumphs which added a bit of interest.
The museum was a bit quiet when we arrived, being a steam museum it takes them a little while to get the boilers stoked up and get things going and the steam powered funfair didn't really get into full swing until about 1 o'clock. However there was lots of things to wander around a look at, there was a traction engine pulled cart that we had a ride on as that was up and running early on. Then there was a nice ride on a Steam Train ride up the hill and through the woods. After lunch me and the boy hit the fun fair, great traditional rides mostly powered by steam, the chairoplane was the neaest to a white knuckle ride that was running, there was a steam boat ride, a merry go round, a ferris wheel that gave a really good view of the museum park and the local countryside. Add traditional stuff like a hall of mirrors, candy floss etc plus a miniture train ride and a great time was had by all.
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 25th June 2012 11:07pm gmt
3 Triumph Weekends on the trot!
It's been a busy month for me Triumph wise this month as I've had 3 weekends away Triumphing, all of them involving camping, beers and barbecues...
May day bank Holiday weekend was the Isle of Wight Triumph Club Weekend, even though the weather was a bit damp it was still a great event. We had quite a few of our local club area in attendance as usual. Once again we won the quiz, not sure how we manage that most years as we don't take it too seriously. Lots of the local Fuddle de dum beer was consumed so maybe that helped! A few pictures from the event below.
The following weekend was SEM (South of England Meet) at Leatherhead. The weather was dry thank goodness as the camping is very much out in the open there. Some nice cars there on the day, plus a Lightnin' McQueen (from the cartoon "Cars") themed GT6 convertible which people either loved or hated. Pictures from the event below:-
Then last weekend was my favourite Triumph Event, the Triumph Marque day at Prescott. I love the fact that this is an action packed event with Triumph's of all types from all clubs driving up the hill all through the day, some gently, some very aggresively, plus of course the chance to attack the hill in your own car. There was some lovely cars out on the track, including quite a few ex works rally cars, being driven hard like they are suppossed to be! Pictures and Video clips below, including in car footage of one of my runs up the hill
Video Clip of My Run
Video Clip of Works TR4 Rally car, very fast...
posted by Andy Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05264143117501298250noreply@blogger.com 22nd May 2012 11:26pm gmt
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